who here has been surfing this week?

Looks like I missed out on a really good day in Jersey, huh? Lame.

What really sucks is this was a day where I only had to work for 3 or 4 hours, but I had to hang out up there for an obligation that I had tonight. So I couldn't make plans to come back all the way down to Monmouth County to surf for a little bit and then drive all the way back up north.

Sucks!

 

I got a session in NO OC and SO MOCO. Pretty fun in both spots.

OC had enough size and push to get a feel for a "new to me" Coil Chopstick I picked up last month. Seems likenits going to be a really fun board.

 

I had a fun sunset session yesterday after work. I took my newly repaired 6'10" WRV FunFish out for a spin for the first time in a few years. Waves were chest / shoulder high and building, semi-clean with a light onshore breeze. The smaller ones were mushy and crumbly but the sets had power and form. It took me a couple waves to get use to the boart againe. It felt stiff on turns. It's 6 inches longer than my Coil FBF, and 10 inches longer than my M-80.

On my 3rd wave I got a solid set wave, it lined up perfectly, I went backside, I made sure to get all the way back on the tail this time, which resulted in my bottom turn having more power and I went vertical for a roundhouse snap with a fan of spray, a move I wasn't pulling off when I got this boart over 12 years ago, but I knew it was something I was "capable" of. It's nice being able to go back in time on this boart, I think I'll ride it every now and then but it reminded me why I got these Coils, which are much better boarts.

 

Fun perfectly shaped chest high lefts in central Monmouth late afternoon/early evening yesterday. Bit of a wait between sets and seemed like more paddling than expected after each ride due to currents/rips (aren't rips supposed to make paddling back out easier? felt like I was on a treadmill in certain spots though...), but no complaints at all. Nothing epic but a very enjoyable session.

 

WOOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOOOO, I got out yesterday! First time in over a month! Not the best conditions, but still had fun. Water didn't feel too bad, the sun was out. Took me a minute to get my legs back, but it was a fun session.

 

Had a nice 2 hour session this morning. Glassy waist high with a few chests, water temp 40, air 35. Prettty tame for this time of year. Was on my G&S Magic which is my all-time favorite board.
Oh....and I was the only one out at my chosen location.

 

I usually go for my Dumpster Diver, but yesterday I pulled out the quad V3. I forgot how much I like that board.

 

Surfed 4 days last week, then Monday. Monday was choice. Small-ish, but super clean with great shape and occasional HH sets. Lots of dudes checking it from the rocks, but nobody paddled out. Their loss. Got a sick barrel right in the middle of the beach when I was paddling back to the south to end the session.

Today is rainy and blown. Didn't have time to surf anyway.

 

Tomorrow

 

I went again yesterday. It was better than I thought. Mostly knee/thigh glass, but if you were patient, there were some nice waist high to be had on the new 7 foot hybrid. Felt much warmer.

 

man, i was hoping too. this wknd should be fun, expecting the wind to die down. too bad our tides are all jacked this week

 

What a great morning of waves. I waited till low incoming tide and caught it perfectly in the chest / shoulder high range. The lines were clean and reeling down the sand bars up and down the beach. Light offshore wind straight out of the West with the occasional NW breeze.

Some of the waves were really long and playful, mostly lefts (i'm goofy), giving me ample time to do whatever I wanted. I was riding the Flashback Fish which was the right call for sure. Such a fun session. There were people out but I had my own peak and didn't let any rideables get by me.

I needed a good session since I was feeling a little bummed ever since the time changed which has limited me to no DP sessions this week. I have a hard time paddling out and then having to paddle back in less than an hour later. That will change next week though. Every day offers a minute or two more sunlight in the morning than the last. Sunset sessions are great and all, but I prefer to get it in early before wind has a chance to F it up.

 

Dear Barry,


Next time you paddle out- could you please invite all us (all your Swellinfo friends) to this "chosen location" where the waves are good and no ones out??

 

Hahaha

 

good times, surfed 4/5 days with hopefully a 4 day streak coming up.

yaaaasssss

 

That is against everything I stand for (which ain't much)........

 

Nice... totally got the visual by your description.

It's cold has F here... 26 degrees this morning, and flat. I haven't ridden the log in a while, and really wish we had some small clean ones today so I could blow of something important.

 

I'm glad I adjusted my schedule yesterday so I could take advantage because it's back to wind slop today. The wind machine is in effect till probably Sunday / Monday. Maybe something for the blow boarters though lol

 

So yesterday and the day before were amazing! Nothing epic, just goode clean fun.

Tuesday morning a chest-shoulder plus north swell showed up with a touch of light northwest winds early, threatening to go onshore mid am. I checked the reef but it was crowded and wonky on the low tide, so I went to my secret spot. I had my round nosed high volume round tailed 6'6" Pete Dooley NA for soft waves, and it was soft.

But crystal clear blue water, chest high lines and my buddy the lifeguard showed up early, as I pulled into the parking lot he was hoisting the flag of the US of A, and said when he saw me pull up, "Let's go!" I asked is it good he said "Yeah!"

It was breaking on the outside bar with the low tide, and we got the incoming push before the wind got on it. I got the best of him, finally (on his old board he sold to a bud who blew his knees out skating and sold it to me - now he wishes he kept it, LMAO). He has smoked me a few times making it look easy on that board a year ago, I was wondering how he got so fast,, but I got lucky, and did a sand reconne mile swimme Sunday so I knew the bar better than him (they rotate him up to Jupiter most of the week so he gets to see it here two days a week)

It was cool, we were hooting each other on good rides, and I paddled down 100 yards south and got a couple semi steep roping head high set waves that were like moble translucent clear blue skateboard ramps, and Dooley - HOF shaper - made this board so it gains speed on turns - and I was upside down making sections and just flying down the line doing off the lips and it kept peeling, hit the inside trough and finally died out and I paddled in and went to work.

Yesterday morning I went up to another spot not to be mentioned, the swell died a bit so I went north a bit, it was chest plus weak with the offshores, clear blue, six or so people all spread out, I took the longboard out. No leash - mistake. After getting four very long, very fast, very fun waves, like a jazz song it was soooo groovey, the last one I got too greedy, took it in too far, it closed out, I lost the board, and it drifted all the way to the rocky shore line, I swam after it but had no chance to catch it - poor baby, and now the nose looks like Rocky.

My name is surfdogg, I am a moron. LMAO. Life is goode!!!

 

^^^ I enjoyed reading that. Thanks! Particularly the part about the translucent blue skateboard ramps. I most definitely need some of those in my life. Reminds me of a session I was able to score in Barbados. Never in my life have I experienced water so aqua clear.