Assistance with board decision..etc

jboost
You went from a foam top (aircraft carrier) to a 7'6 (PT boat)
That is a big change in flotation. Give it time to get used to, if you haven't. You decide.
Also, is the nose on the 7'6" really turned up?? That makes a huge difference in boards that size. A sharp up turned nose makes it way harder to paddle into a wave than a straight nose shape. I surf boards that size--they are my favorite size. Also, the thickest part of that board for ease of catching waves should be under your chest, not your stomach, waistline or lower as is popular in shorter boards.
Take a good look at your board; give it a sagittal(side) viewing to see where thickness is located.
And then take two aspirins and call me in the morning....

 

If I am seeing you paddling right in my mind, Nope. Chin Up. Chest off board. Helps paddling and changes your center of gravity.

Anybody else see this?

 

It depends on how easy / hard it is to get into the wave. Good waves are easier to catch and don't require as much effort if you are in the right position, so it's not really necessary, but if it's one of those days where it's taking every bit of paddle power to get into the wave, digging your chin for those last couple strokes will shift your weight toward the nose and if your legs are bent at the knees and lifted (together, not spread apart), it takes some of the weight / drag off the tail to get that little bit of extra lift for take off. I do this on the LB when it's barely rideable and it helps me get in. Most times if you're in the right position and are paddling early enough to get up to speed you can do without.

 

#boosterseat

Herro threade, prease.

 

When you're stroking really hard really put your weight into the tip.. stay on the tip it's the most sensitive. If your tail slides out ust go with it every one can deal with a little tail play here and there. Once you're in just hold on and set your line. Also I have a couple short boards that would suit you in you want to take a look.

Ps: anyone get my innuendos
No?
Ok

 

There is no money..

Free to all..

It is actually..

Hey, you should join our club..you and your friend.

[video=youtube;HpVOXITW-Xc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpVOXITW-Xc[/video]

 

In my experience you guys are both right depending on the wave. I always start chin down to get my speed and momentum up. If I'm into the wave early and/or angling the pop up I'll stay this way. If the take off is late or its a steeper wave I find myself doing a flutter kick and arching my back trying to shift my weight back to keep the nose up and set the fins when I'm up.


Jboo, you're EmassLite. Prob a strong, athletic person that is used to excelling at sports and wondering why you still suck after a year. You're gonna get better but no amount of research is going to replace time in the water. With that said, your terms are close but this will educate you. "Volume in the tail rocker" isn't a thing.

http://www.surfline.com/blogs/talking-design-the-board-blog-with-rusty-preisendorfer_26649/

It's not the indian, it's the arrow. I've said this a bunch. Humility goes a long way in this game and the ocean will always find ways to humble you again.

 

Right on. To me there's no right / wrong way necessarily, it's simply whatever works for you. Try, fail, adjust, until you succeed.

 

Just a hunch: You are trying to catch the wave out too far. Line up right where the wave pitches and becomes hollow - let the wave do most of the work. Your arms are getting worn out paddling too much for the wave. Another thing - be aware of whether or not the wave is a "top-to-bottom" breaker which is easy to catch or a "spilling" or "reforming" wave which is harder for a shortboarder to catch, because it "fools" us out far, and then eventually it finally just closes out more or less.

The board is way more than enough float - you look like you have 45 - 55 litres under you when all you need is about 32 - 37 litres. 3" is thick, you only need 2 5/8". Also, the board you show looks like a fun shape, it's not an aggressively shaped board, which to some extent makes it a little bit draggy and sluggish when the wave becomes critical, and you should already be snapping in to your first turn or angle.

One last thing: It's chest-muscle that gets you up on your shortboard - not arm-muscle. You need to push real hard on the pop-up, and if it's an uncertain, bumpy beginning of the take-off, reach down with one hand and push down on the nose of your board as you're getting to your feet (this assumes you took-off with weight back so you don't purl). The push-down will give a slight acceleration to your board. And make sure you do what you say in "c." of your post above - that's the right mindset (make sure you catch the wave).

And don't be afraid to surf boards with more rocker - say 2 1/2 - 2 3/4" at that length tail and 5 3/4" nose rocker. Even higher tail and nose rockers are not wrong (on a 7'6" board). You could surf a board down to 6'6" and be catching waves.

 

Yup, I guess the point I was trying to make is there isn't a technique that will work on every wave. Wave knowledge will dictate what approach to take. You only get that from lots of water time and surfing different conditions.

 

Yup, exactly, it's on a wave-by-wave basis for sure. Some waves require little to no padding if you're in the right spot, others require a full out effort.

 

#cindylouwho

 

That reminds me of a few girlfriends when I was young.....

 

[video=youtube;HChzRB8h6LU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HChzRB8h6LU[/video]

 

I didn't read everything here, but I'll throw an opinion out that might not have been made yet. That giant fun shape could be holding you back.....might be too big. I'm not a fan of funshapes for smaller waves, and as a beginner, I suspect the waves your referring to may be smaller than you are considering them.

In smaller surf for me they feel too long to catch waves late and fit into the wave face well, too short to catch waves real early like a longboard, they just feel kind of lost to me. I know I'm probably a minority with this point of view as general concensous is more foam is better for a beginner, but something to consider. For smaller waves on the right coast, Long boards and short grovelers are way better options to me.

If you've got friends that surf, try as many different bards as you can. If you don't have anyone you can borrow from, maybe see if you can rent some different shapes and sized boards.

If you are shape you are claiming, and your goal is ultimately to short board, I would jump right to a groveler style short board with appropriate volume for your weight. Don't over foam it, just use target volumes. I would lean towards a plan shape that is on the wide side.

On the other hand, if you enjoy longboarding, maybe just get a better longboard....nothing wrong with going that route.

 

all of the above, and one quick addition: Finding the sweet spot for laying on your bort is imperative to catching waves with ease. For me, I find the spot where if I put my head down the nose goes under, and if I crane my neck and lift my chest off the board (normal paddle position) the nose will come up. Making minute adjustments are going to keep the nose up when you need, and will allow you to angle the board down a bit for those last couple digs before you pop up.

Remember, fully committing to every wave, even if it means going over the falls, is the fastest way to get better. A wave where you get nervous about pearling and pop up too early is a missed opportunity.

 

True, the sweet spot is very noticeable once you find it, you'll feel the boart glide across the water rather than pushing water.

 

Niice response Louie..
You can send photos when you get them

 

To the OP. Whenever you get a new boart, especially when it is an extremely different size/shape from what you had been riding, you are going to need to adjust your entire approach. How you paddle, where you position yourself in the lineup, how you find the trim when lying prone, your take off, your foot placement. You get the picture. It doesn't matter what your ability is, except for your ability to adjust. Surfing is all about adjusting. Adjusting to changing winds, tides, directions, size, sand bars, crowds, etc.
Hellz, I just got a new boart and took it out for the first time Tuesday. Same size, same width, and same thickness as an old boart I have at home. But the new boart has less nose rocker, a rounded pin, and more volume in the center/nose than my old boart. I've been surfing for over 40 years and with just those subtle differences, it took me a couple waves, a couple pearls, a couple messed up bottom turns, to get it dialed in.
So hang in there. Keep riding.

 

right on. the ability to adjust on the fly is a skill developed with time and toil.