who here has been surfing this week?

all wknd surf. Waist to chest sets. some disorganized-mostly afternoon, evening sessions, small drift. We've had mostly on days than off, so it's been pretty fun. coming back to work, doesn't take ppl long to figure out i was a the beach for most of the wknd. too bad the sun's not out early enough to get a dp in, but am looking forward to the next couple days of sunset sessions. took the 7'2" Hog Molly out cuz it needed the lip with some slo rollers that came through the wknd, but i took out the back fin to make it a twin fin. it made it pretty whirly, can see how ppl can dig it. think i will do that for my 6'4" Ms Clementine, prolly achieve more on that than a longer board. also took out the 9' LB on Saturday morning and caught a handful

 

Missed the weekend due to work but caught some decent waves this morning with little crowd. Was a little warm in a 3/2. Could almost spring it if the wind is calm. I've been working my core out and it really was noticeable today. Felt Goode! Stoked!

 

Fun high tide session in the land of 23'ers tonight. Talk about glassy. Absolutely no wind on it. Some dark green translucent skateboard ramps for sure. Could see right through to the bottom. (Rarity for dirty jerz.) It was very picturesque.

Only a few other brosephs out. All sharing a few waist to stomach slabby patties. They eventually left and the fog set in a ton. I could not see either sides of the jetties I was in between, or the beach which was 30-50 yards away. Definitely got a little spooky out there. Every ripple in my mind was a monster waiting to appease it's appetite. I pushed onward and let the mind ease a bit. Finally got dark and then I left. Albeit, nothing crazy it was fun session for sure.

I smells some more surf a comin...

 

Kan is Da Man. More stoke than most anyone.

Thx for your reports. From the frothing DL guys.

 

Keepin that stoke alive, brotha. The one thing all of us on here share, minus Barry. Just kidding

 

Hopping on the stoke train for wednesday!!! Get some nuggers

 

My best friend when to surf today and got a good 2 hours in. I slept in that entire time, to make up for my ridiculous sleep deficit.

A few more weeks and I'll be able to surf every day, the surf will probably just disappear on me though!

 

After 5 weeks out of the water got a solid 3 hours in Saturday. Mostly waist high stuff in the AM, but as the tide filled in, there was an occasional chest to head high set. I really over did it and felt like I was beaten with an axe handle when I woke up Sunday morning.
I "committed" to a lot of waves and had some spectacular over the falls, elevator drops and some spin cycles.... It was still fun. Getting old is not for pussies.

 

Solid chest - head+ this morning on the incoming high tide, it was deep but breaking through no problem. I didn't have much time this morning (maybe 45 minutes) but I snagged some good ones in addition to getting blasted by a couple too. Lots of energy in the water. It smelled really fishy today, lots of seaweed along the shoreline. Mmmm, tastey.

 

Man I must say I have missed your surfing sessions.

They get me psyched.

You going out tonight?

 

sounds tasty...high tide and weakish swell forced me to the grind.

 

That's what happened to me yesterday. It was supposed to be similar to today but it wasn't working like it was today. Not till low tide at least, which I had to work during that time. Today, there was almost 2hrs until peak high tide so maybe the extra hour or so made all the difference.

 

last couple afternoons. Waist high with a few bigger peaks, decent shape, warm 70 degree weather, deserted lineup, or at least under 5 people out. It's springtime and the contractors are starting to get busy. Same conditions weekday afternoon a month ago, there would have been 20 heads out.

 

I went back out for a 2nd session after work. Waves still hanging around the chest - head range with occasional sets slightly overhead. Light onshore, mid-high incoming tide, shorepound was a b*tch but the paddle out was easy.

South - North drift and a bit shifty, challenging but fun. Not my best session either, it felt like I was offbeat and out of sync. Despite that I found myself in the right spot a few times and got some long fast lefts on the M-80. As I was getting out I got annihilated by a shorepound closeout, I tried diving under it but it was futile lol Worst beating in a while but somehow it was fun. I laughed as I walked away unscathed.

 

super fun last two days down here. chest to head high and offshore both days, been demoing a lib tech/lost RNF redux from work and it is SUPER fun. hollow, walled out peaks. oh and no gloves either. air temps in the 70s, stoked!!

 

I've been eyeing up that redux. Looks so fun. What size you riding?

 

My son and I have been out the last two days. He at 1st St., me at Dam Neck. About waist high. Cleaner conditions today than yesterday. Out there in the rain for a bit today. Water temps in upper 40s, air temps at beach in upper 60s.

 

Hoping for a good day of surf later today, with having the day off.

 

got in a bit yesterday. Did a morning sess before hi tide @ the Washout. Crowded as usual, chest hi but semi-choppy. had only several before my feet went num. been downgrading to a 3/2 in the past week, which has been ok but didn't figure the booties would be missed. things got real choppy after that, but a rainbow popped out and i had to get a couple more. def choppy and crapster of an evening rainbow session, but the ocean has come clean today. if i didn't have to catch up on work, i'd have rolled out this morning. hoping for a last evening sess, before i get my jollies off this wknd @ Carolina Bch - predicted waist hi, hopeful

 

This morning was offering beautiful and glassy long lines, still lingering around the chest - head high range on the sets. Wind was calm - light offshore. Incoming high tide was making it deep and soft on the outside so I had to sit on the middle / inside bars where they were loading up and detonating.

I dropped in on a few close outs and one of them was an air drop from about 5 feet that I stuck the landing on which was fun. Some had a nice shoulder on them though, but I had to be in the sweet spot to beat the section. If I had chose the LB I could have picked them off waaaaay outside and probably could have made longer runs but I have been enjoying the 6' M-80 lately and am happy with my session. Some guy paddled out on his LB and paddled back in like 10 minutes later. Weird. March has been pretty damn good I have to say.