who here has been surfing this week?

oh sets llast night and this am in moco. no wind, water felt warm zero crowd and this am no drift. cant ask for much more

 

Got out this PM--headhigh sets, semi glassy, but...just me out; nobody else. Me likey like that.
Had very many nice waves.
Got my mojo back!!
Nap time!!

 

Different watering hole this morning very fun at high tide. Couple chunkers out there

 

LOW-T? I kidde...sounds like everybody is getting some of this swell. It was smaller today down here. but last couple of days were fun

 

I surfed and I'm gonna surf some mo.

 

got in the water at 6 a.m. for some really fun ones, hardly anyone out. Tonight swell had dropped, but it was warm out and fun.

[video=vimeo;215106173]https://vimeo.com/215106173[/video]

 

^^^Lol.. Mitchell.. That put a huge smile on my face. Thanks!

 

Mine too! Almost pissed myself watching that. The stillshot thumbnail made me go ''What the hell is he doing?'' Then I watched it and had a good laugh.

My best friend and I took a really long bike from Manasquan to Long Branch and back, think it's over 30 miles. 32 miles or something. My ass hurts from the seat more than my legs from peddling. I ride my stationary bike an hour a day usually, so I'm conditioned for it. I slept in on Wednesday when there looked to be some swell. Slept in today too, but it doesn't look like I missed much. Looks like I'll me missing plenty tomorrow and Saturday, while off to Florida on a business trip!

 

3-wave frustration session after work today. Missed the goods this morning...

 

I surfed again today. Real nice.
Big whoopee.....

 

after work Mini Simmons sesh. waist high, nice shape but a little gutless. Would have passed on it six weeks ago in 45 degree water but in a 3/2 no boots or gloves, it kept me stoked for two hours. The 80 degree air temps, and the water temps close to 60 helped make it a pretty good end to the week.

 

Me too: Got out mid afternoon, no one out- but was frustrated that the wind changed south by the time I got out... and I skipped the morning thinking afternoon would be better... then more frustrated when I saw it prior to dark!

I did get a few good ones tho... can't complain cause no one was out at a popular spot, and this no crowd thing ain't gonna last too much longer...

 

been surfing 3 sessions a day for the last three days... its been a hell of spring here in the banks. trunked it today for the first time on my lunch break

 

yeah. There were 6 guys out mid Friday afternoon in conditions that will have 36 guys out two months from now.

 

fun little waves yesterday sp...only road 2 waves and barely did that...empty line up too. Bummed out.

 

A couple times last week during lunch off Dam Neck. Been enjoying the warmer water (60-ish) and shedding some rubber. The 5/4/3 I bought last Dec for winter is getting too warm now.

 

Got a little sesh this morning. Crazy thunderstorm with lightening when i first rolled up. Watched it pass then got on it. Saw a few lightening strikes while in the water but it was further east.

Waves were ok at best. Waist stomach high. Low tide. Light onshores. Pretty disorganized and jumbled. But some waves had a nice section or two. One of those days were you just catch allot of waves.... most will be crappy but if you paddle into enough of em you'll inevitably find yourself a few good ones.

Winds looking much better for tomorrow. Just got to hope the swell doesn't drop to much. If it doesn't it should be fun.

 

Sometimes you get it, sometimes you don't. Chadwick was difficult tonight, but the work/practice should help me do better today. If you at least get one decent ride you should swallow your pride and be content and try again next time. The way i see it, i have a job with pay and benefits, but sometimes i miss the good conditions, and the metastatic high-grade fibrosarcoma right lung lower lobe wedge resection, plus cyberknife radiation to the upper right thigh, i am done with all that, not gonna complain about the pounding i took last night in a difficult swell, i will just paddle back out today and rejoice that i am surfing instead of cancer treatment, a surfer again, no longer a cancer patient

 

How true. We get a lot of that here.

 

Haven't posted here in a while but I've been surfing 3-4-5 times a week for the last couple weeks. Getting a fun run up here in Jerz.

Had a really suite thigh to waist hi sesh in S. Moco today w/ soulsurfer. Three hours of owning a peak together with lefts and rights. Traded off on a log, grov and hybrid boart' through out the day. Gorgeous weather 85+ air, warm water and hardly a cloud in the sky. The water was very clear too. Love that ish.

Gf caught a boat load of pics. Will upload some later.

Hope you cats are scoring.