who here has been surfing this week?

Fun day

 

Just another person in the lineup man. Thought I'd share the stoke with some fellow surfers. Not many others get it.

 

Sick shot. S. Moco was a lot of fun today too. Chest to head SE swell and relatively clean all day long. Surfed for probably 6 hours at a break with just my friend and I. We had the best set up. While most dudes were crowd surfing mediocre spots we had a super shallow sandbar jacking up left and right hand barrels all day. Pulled into a pretty deep left hander, completely covered, during the morning. Not a drop of water out of place and had the cleanest exit I've ever had. It definitely made my year, already. Super STOKED. Got a few more cover ups throughout the day going left and right. (Thanks for your tips stank, backside barrel stance definitely got a little more pretty.) My bud was catching some fine pits too.

Halfway through the sesh we stopped to watch the contest in 23 footers. Couple guys out there slaying it. Cool to see some of the local talent on a decent day. Shredding harder than I ever will.

Afterwards we grabbed some burgers and brew, whilst reminiscing the sesh, to cap it all off. This one is going in the memory banks for sure.

Hope everyone else scored some.

 

Glad you scored. My buddy just came down from there, said there was a beer strike of some sort,so he left the state. WTF?

 

It was knee to waist hi north mini swell, and weak due to the steady offshore breeze, but very pretty crystal clear blue green aqua coloured water and nicely lined up and I found a spot with zero crowd and got lots of waves on the mid bar while some sort of mass baptism was going on on the beach so the vibes were great and joyous, lots of kids and parents hooting, so I imagined what it must be like to be Mick getting chaired up the beach by his mates at Pipe after winning the title, then another two foot peeler came rolling in. Life is goode!

 

surfed chuns/pidleys with a buddy instead of jockos. jockos had like fkn 40 dudes, wtf! chest to overhead, some well overhead ones on some sets, somewhat cloudy bumpy waves, but lined up in trunks, I will take it

looks jersey did its thing!! its the best when that is like head to head+2' give or take, big enough to get legit tubed, but not big to make it a chore.

everyone scored on sunday funday, yew!!!

 

quick run in on Sat morning. thi hi sideshore burn n turn waves. drift was bad, and it they were just rideable waves. looking at the forecast, it's officially summer here in the SE. not much of anything to ride for a while, hence me jumping in Sat just to catch something before it becomes a lake

 

Waves had to much to drink yesterday they kept spitting up

 

If I drove over to the beach to check the day's waves, and and saw THAT, I'd be squealin tires, burnin rubber, and throwin gravel in the air with my truck to get home and grab my board!

Nice.

It's flat again today...

Will say one thing though...

That cold water and I don't get along well.

I'm a skinny OLD guy. Look like one of them Kenyan marathon runners. I wear a wetsuite til the water gets to 75 down here. THE wetsuite I should say. Can't afford a closet full of em for whatever temp the water is.

I know y'all up north are bustin out laughin. Don't bother me none. We just do whatever we gotta do to enjoy the ocean and its goodness.

If yer 20 somethin years old, check back when you're 60 about the water temp. You'll see...

 

Pretty fun Saturday with some stiff offshores making for some racy rights running. Morning session was fun but the incoming tide later was best.

There was an 8ft Bull Shark caught off the pier on Friday night....me and my bro were surfing the AM and that is all I could think about... that pissed of shark swimming around with a hook in him!

 

I didn't. HA No worries

 

Inlet was doing it's thing on Sat. Boogie boarders play ground. Yeah, I said boogie boarder.

 

What was likely the last cold front until November blew through on Friday with rain and thunder all morning leaving behind a rare SE swell. Very small but also very clean and wasn't really forecast. Surfed for two hours with a friend on the incoming tide. Barely knee high waves with a few bomb sets in the thigh high range. Ridiculously high wave count and stupid fun considering the size. We were probably the only ones surfing in Broward County. So good to catch some unexpected surf on Cinco de Mayo as the forecasts are looking a lot like summer flatness for the foreseeable future. I know it ain't much but that's just how we roll down here in the shadow.

 

thi hi bombs! yes!

 

I rode a longbort this morning. It was fun. I must admit, I felt old and fat. The air was cold this morning too. Where did Spring go?

 

My bud used to roust me for surfing Pidleys....sometimes that left lines up and is super fun. Softer wave but can have really good shape. Sounds like you have been scoring this spring.

 

Yeah I know, pretty gnarly. Sometimes you just gotta go for it though. YOLO!

 

supposed to be like this for another week. I love this weather...and when these lows produce some Spring surf. No shame on the long board man...you had fun!!!

 

yes, was surfing with a diverse crew, some said 'no' to jockos. in all fairness, that entire piece was packed, 3 dozen+ at jockos, 4-5 dozen at chuns properre and 2 dozen at pidley's. Sunday Funday in effect!
Pids is a soft wave, but on a fat fish and on my frontside, it is so super fun.
Spring is still pretty good, looks like it dwindles to nill by weeks end

 

Some fun waves left over this morning... high tide early, but the right spot and it was still chest high on the set. A little wait on the set of waves, but fun and peaceful!

Just a little too cold- it felt like it was march with the air temps!! No fun changing outta the wetsuite