This morning was pretty fun. Stomach to shoulder high. Clean. Little barrel off the peak then a nice lowers-esqe wall. Got there early and only a few guys were there. Ended up getting pretty crowded but the strong drift kept things spread out. In all honesty i surfed like crap today. Just couldn't get into my groove. But still managed to get 2 or 3 good ones i was happy with. One was a barrel that ended up closing one me but stayed open long enough for a sweet view. Other two were two turn waves with a fun racey section in between. I gotta say the extra winter rubber usually doesn't bother me. But i can't wait to get in a 3/2. Still a little chilly to shed it all but we are getting there.
NJ must be pumping, Belmar is cam of the day size and angle look good for IBSP you will find empty peaks thar
I went out surfing Saturday and Sunday. The winds switched ahead of schedule. Found surf way bigger and cleaner than anticipated. Yewww! I hope all you brothers and mothers got yours.
Got out with the longboard this afternoon. Nothing particularly great, surf-wise, but a beautiful day nonetheless. Windy offshores, air temps in low 80s, and water 58-59...a little little cooler than two weeks ago.
It was a really good day, this might have been my best day of the calendar year so far. It probably wasn't the best day in Jersey of the calendar year, but it was close enough for me personally, with the days I've been able to surf. I hit Belmar and it was actually one of those days where Mr. Belmar would be completely spot on when he talks up Belmar. It was a very nice day for what you usually get in May. A few sets in the chest to shoulder range. I'm hoping for some leftovers tomorrow. The water wasn't even that nasty, considering the Nor'easter and heavy rains over the last two days before this. It was also pretty sweet that the air temperature got above 60 degrees for the first time in what seems like the month of May so far.
Great unexpected wknd at Folly. Saturday was supposedly going to be rare thi according to reports, but it was waist hi on plenty of occasions. went out on a 7'6" funshape and then switched it out with a buddy's 9'4" custom LB. clean lines, could work both angles left and right and nobody out there in front of my (old) place. was moving this wknd, so i thought it was nice to get a couple hrs in on Saturday doing some turns and cutbacks w/ a bud. then comes Sunday, lil more drift (by the looks, not when in water) and winds but "still rideable" i told a couple buddies. we decided to go to Washout, and tho there was some semi chop, the waves proved to be incredible w/ the sideshore winds giving out great angles. I had some of the best rights that i could think of down the line on my 7'2" fish. you could go left as well but they faded, the rights were right against the wall and if only bigger of course would've had handled barrels very well. pretty much one way traffic so only a few i could screw around with the wave but another couple hrs out there that day. plus, maybe three other ppl showed up whom didn't get in our way for the whole session. We had a great time, well deserved move-out wknd. Be back on Folly when the summer kooks are gone; sharpening my game dwntn in the meantime
I tried to go but between cooking breakfast for wifey, hiking with family and a party at the inlaws...it wasn't happening. Waves on Mother's Day = A true test for man, husband, father, surfer.
Started my pursuit of waves yesterday at 4:15am and got home around 6:00pm. It was an awesome, but exhausting day filled with very long lefts, pits and some serious wipe outs. Ventured from northern Ocean County up through S. MoCo with a couple of my friends. Solid chest to shoulder and occasional head sets on the East swell. Completely spent after what I believe was 10 hours of actual water time. After affects really came in last night and are lingering this morning. Never got into the barrel I wanted, but did get a few cover ups; also took my board to the knee and bicep on an ugly toss over, some fin stabs to the leg, and filthy wetsuit chafing but all in all a fun day. In the am with the low tide we were surfing a wave that legitimately looked like Namibia. I figured I might as well get it in before the flatness sets in. So long to the fun days. This wave was a lot bigger than it looks, as I was standing on a dune, but it barreled for its entirety.
This isn't my pic and it isn't me, but it's where I was surfing yesterday and probably what I looked like on a few wrecks. Decent but no "bombs"
Good fun this morning. Most likely our last Nor'Easter of the season. I surfed till it sucked today cause these days are numbered.
Sometimes I hate that I never started a family, but this is one upside to it, I guess! Not that I wouldn't have missed it for a wife and my kids, but no way for the in-laws! Had a few hours of longboarding yesterday, it was okay.
swell finally got small, (6 feet at 10 seconds) and the jetty finally turned on. My first day of work was yesterday and while i was at work it was blown out garbage. once i got off however it glassed off and i was greeted with 3 hours of headhigh- overhead tubes and ramp sections right down the street from my house. yay summertime!
^^^ I would love to be able to refer to 6ft@10seconds as being small. Sounds super fun. Get some. I have hope for my trip to Cabo in a month, but that's about it.