who here has been surfing this week?

I had a really great day overall and then got to surf with an old friend, who I only get to see every so often and get to surf with even more seldom, due to the distance in which we live.

It was just longboarding, which most people who know me know how I'm not big on the longbort and only have one for days like yesterday!

It was 91 degrees and got to enjoy some time outside before our session. Got to put on a 3/2 and took a chance with no gloves. Pretty comfortable but only because of the 90 degree air. Water temps are 58, so I think barring one of those really cool days (and there's been A LOT of them before this week) happening again, I'll probably be in the 3/2 for now.

 

flat again.

 

Fun little day for sure at TPTSNBN. However, as soon as the wind got more south in it the little swell went bYE BYE. Went from fun to chit in like 10 min.

 

I gotta agree with Mitchell... "felt like summer" yesterday morning in MoCo as well. I took the day off to go get my kid from school, and squeezed in a session early AM. This girl paddles out with no boots or gloves... and doesn't even make out to the lineup before she turns around and goes back in to get her boots. When she paddled back out, we exchanged "good mornings" and I asked her if her hands were comfortable without gloves: "No, not at all." We both laughed. I said, "the only thing better than summer is 'not quite summer'..."

 

Sucked in pm...didnt even bother.

 

Worst session ever this morning. Hung over and throwing up between waves. I caught a bunch though.

 

Yesterday pm was pretty good for awhile. Had some nice pretty long for a beachbreak rides.

 

I got out for about 2-3 hours this evening. It wasn't too bad.

The air temp sure cooled down though.

 

flat again

 

went out Saturday for some small decent rides. should've brought the LB but my funboard fisch was able to catch them coming in. was really hoping for better, but glad i went out when i did (hot as hades this past wknd) cuz nothing else materialized that wknd for the look of it. maybe a couple rideable this week, but memorial wknd looking like a bust. may be a good thing considering incoming traffic to beach

 

flat again

 

+1

 

brushed off an old 6' fishy for the late afternoon sesh yesterday. Man, I forgot how much fun that board is. It was chest high and sorta fat and disorganized...ended up catching a few decent waves late in the day. I had a nice back side hack to floater. Then I was talking to myself (which I do when I surf alone...have all kinds of silly thoughts). Anyway, I was like man I would like to get a left (frontside) hack like that. Caught a few more then a nice left came in and I took the thing and did a little speed pump off the bottom and gave it my all. Made the wave and pumped to inside and went in....ran up on the beach with a nice smile on my face and the waves weren't even that good!

 

And again. (maybe a knee high line at low)

 

fun chest to well overhead waves everyday in front of my house since i started work 2 weeks ago. been getting at least one fun barrel and about 10 - 20 fun waves with a few turns in per day. just gotta dodge the agro sea lions. starting to get crowded though, about 5 people on it yesterday.

The locals will start laying down justice on the tourons if the crowd grows much more

 

The recent Surfers Journal has a huge article/story/spread about surfing the PNW. I have not read it yet but it looks like they are covering it pretty good...may or may not increase the crowd factor. I have always wanted to explore some of that area...the coastline looks so rugged and untouched.

 

Hey, if you're down here PM me, I'll buy you a mohito.

 

flat again

 

Make that a "moJito" and I am in!!

 

Ju got it mang! Mojitos it shall be!

You can waterski all the way to the Bahamas this morning it was soooo flat. Time to break out the wakeboard.