There going to cancel our car week because every year someone dies. Honestly it's sad to see how many drownings happen every year. One summer I think we had 5. I watched a kid drown on the inlet cam, worst part is I was supposed to surf that day at inlet, which i never do, but didn't last minute to eat food and looked on the cam to see if I missed anything and that's when I saw the kid floating face down get hit by a wave and not come back up, the cam reload and I thought the cam had a time gap because the swimmer was gone. Found out the next day a kid drowned there. Right on the other end of the jettie an 8 year old girl got swept to see by a wave and drowned. I love the Ocean but why not take a shyte head like me instead of the children brah. I always try to save people but I'm always in the wrong spot. That's why I try to talk myself into helping if I see someone get attacked by a shark. Balcony surfers wipeout from time to time and someone always gets beat to death each year. Pedestrians drop like Flys. This whole place is crazy
We always cheer for that guy! We call him the professor because he will stand and just stare at the waves like he's studying them. Sometimes he wears a helmet, too. I believe he is autistic. But yes, he is out there "surfing" and never gets in anybody's way!
Surfed all day friday... twas fun with minimal crowd. a couple kooks paddled out near us with springsuits on but they each only lasted about 10 minutes so there were no worries took a long right and surfed it all the way back to the beach and instead of paddling back out i decided to walk.. not trying to deal with that current. on my little walk some guy came up close to me and started to film me with his phone. he goes "you don't mid dontcha?" i was like "yeah whatever". he then just continued to film me as i awkwardly put on my leash and walked towards the water. gave the camera a couple uncomfortable fake smiles
Me and one other guy out this AM. Bout waist high two hours after low tide. Sun came out and it got hot. That's when I noticed the other fella's attire. He looked to be in at LEAST a 3/4 maybe 5 with a HOOD. He had on lobster claws. But no boots. He was down the next peak so he didn't bother me none but when he got out I was thinking that he has to be dehydrated. I was sweating my sackle off in a 2/3.