Who taught you how to surf?

7 years ago I was also given a beat up delaminated Byrne (man I loved that thing and proud to say I gave it away in the same respect; who knows where it is now). That day I paddled out in a rare medium sized--which seemed huge to me--summer swell. Each set I took I was too far up or too far back on the board...nose dive into the sand or lack of speed for the wave. A pack of old guys paddled too me and said that I had some balls for taking that many spills and paddling back out (and not knowing how to duck dive on a board to buoyant for me). They helped me with my surfing. Man it'd be cool to see them in the line up again.

 

Fyi

That would have been "Tiny" Tim, of "Tim" surfboards fame.

 

Spent the summer of 1979 working at Phillips Crab House in OCMD. My boss in the kitchen was a local named Andy Brown - his family owned a hotel on 34th Street I think. Anyway, Andy found out that a bunch of us were trying to learn how to surf, so he volunteered to meet us each morning and help us out.

I have no idea what inspired him to hang with us kooks, but I'm forever grateful. In a couple of months we got his lifetime worth of knowledge about swells, tides, winds, and the breaks of the Delmarva. He inspired us so much that four of us walked out of Phillips in late August and took off for Hatteras. It was a stupid hunch, but we scored in a big way - sometimes it pays to quit

Thirty years later I'm still surfing, and even still surfing with one my Hatteras buddies from Phillips.

Oh yeah, and I have a son named Andy.

 

Curious

Who do you write for?

 

I always said to myself man I would love to try surfing.Without even trying it first bought a brand new board and my first time out I got hammered.Thought about quiting right there.But each time it got better and better and my buddy started a month after I did so we took the journey together.So I taught myself how to surf but the couple guys I look up to is Tom Curren and Laird.also have deep respect for Kelly thou.

 

Actually, the summer of '79 is what inspired me to write.

http://www.surfline.com/travel/tripwire/tripwire.cfm?id=1276

A different version of the trip even ended up in Highlights for Children

Used to have a regular gig with Eastern Surf back in first couple of years it was out. Then I got too old to be "hip" enough for them.

Did a number of freelancing gigs for The WaPost

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/travel/index/stories/shores08101997.htm

and other papers when they had a freelancing budget. Freelancing is a pretty tough racket right now. Working on a book at the moment (let's you "respectably" not face the real world for a year or two.

Thanks for asking.

 

my best friend who is like a brother his dad taught me how to surf about 4 years ago.

 

i don't remember saying anything about Noll being dead... and... nice touch with the "two close friends" bit, but to answer your question.... I say.

 

its going great! Thanks so much for asking Matt. I must tell you up front, i'm not gay and I would appreciated it if you, Ms Matt Johnson, would stop sending me private messages asking to suck me off. I use your mom for that.

And the "sorority" is doing great, my mom has been a member of the Virginia Iota chapter since 1967... and she ran the organization in the early 80s... which is how we got the sweet tax exemption on the house....since 1977. The kicker is.... my parents don't even live there anymore... I do (sans a morgage or rent).... so go call your IRS friends and be agry that I don't pay property tax.... and I walk 90seconds to the ocean.... and its not that dirty, needle infested, **** floatin in the water beach you guys roll with up north.

Twizzzaaaaaaaaa

 

Richard simons tought me how to surf and than he tried to touch me I was only 7 and he gave me a buttplug hotsauce with weener buttplug keychain as a souvinere it was the best memory of my life I loved that hotsauce

 

Yeah Me send you pm's you wish . Get over yourself . Your a kook, your a nobody and lifes got you down its okay . Now run along Mrs. Shrewbridge you daily does of hot youngs black man love is waiting for you Cock smoker

 

I dunno, something is fishy here. When I google earthed your address a while back, it sent me to the house across the street. I only know this because your address ends in an even number, and therefore is on the left hand side of the road. Then there is the fact that I live about 10 feet away from you (quite literally), yet have no idea who you are. I surf the same street you do, everyday. I've never seen you. I know everyone that surfs there regularly, yet I don't have the slightest clue what you may even look like.

What the hell is going on here Jimmy?? The only possible solution is that your older than 30, in which case your just warshed up anyhow...

 

Turkey John.

When I finally got my own board for christmas it probably took me a good 4 months to actually turn and get down the face. Looking back a 5-6 single fin fish wasn't the best thing to learn on........talk about hard to turn.

 

you are the guys that insisted I lived at a sorority house.... I just played along... if you live at 75th street too, then no doubt we have seen each other in the water.... I'm guessing you're the kook from down the street.... as for being "warshed up" after 30... tell that to Kelly Slater.

And... for he love of GOD... somebody tell Matt Johnson to stop sending me messages asking me out on dates! Creepy!!!!!!

 

one day my dad came home and said lets go take a ride, and he took me to brave new world and bought the biggest cheapest board we could find. he drove me to the beach the next day and pushed me into a few waves, and then i started doin' it by myself and it has all been downhill since. haha i'm playin, there is nothing "downhill" about surfing. but i like this forum alot, it makes you think about where it all began.

 

Ha... Kook down the street. More like the kid a street away thats always shredding. Seriously though, I wanna know if this is Mr. West???

 

i was taught a few years ago from my friend's dad, he's one of the local longboarders in long branch. first day he took me out it was waist to chest and glassy and then i was probably a little less than 5'0 so it looked bigger! he let me use his 7'0 bing bonzer that didnt have a leash, im pretty sure that board was from the early '70s, but nevertheless it was a nice board. ive been surfing for about 3-4 years since then and i still learn something new every time i paddle out with him

 

I dont really know what johnson and craxcorn are talking about but i feel the need to tell you both to grow up and stop wasting forum posts with this who ha.