who here has been surfing this week?

I love that! I've done the exact same thing paddling up and down the beach with no waves in sight until just before it's time to leave you get rewarded with one or two legit rides and then it disappears as you walk off into the sunset lol

 

i got over to Folly after work, and though it was manageable - def a letdown this week. semi chop turned to chop fairly quickly and it was pretty weak mush. got rides in, but nothing that was too stoke worthy. may have taken out wrong board, but didn't feel like making switch from early dawn session - instead i went straight from work with the LB. nobody else looked like they were catching great ones out there. this morning it was even more chop. might force myself to go over the wknd if i plan a beach day this wknd

 

40mph sustained winds these past few days. surfed two days ago got a couple bombs althought it was windswell shwag 10feet at 8 seconds so i only stayed out for 30 minutes. my car should be fixed today just in time for the wind to die, but with a new south swell coming next week and dead winds I think ill get sent on a fire. the whole southwest is burning, and Big Ernie only gets appeased enough to let the overtime flow and send you on a fire assignment if you sacrifice lots of fresh groceries, plane tickets for your girlfriend, or if the waves get really good.

 

Had a really suite day on LBI on Tuesday. Forgot how much I love to surf there. Spent like 4.5 hours surfing there from late afternoon to a bit after sunset. It was a really good day. I'm hoping it's not the best day we'll have until late August.

Surfed in town yesterday and there were a million people. Didn't seem like it was worth driving out of town for, so just got on my bike and surfed in town. And it was only longbortable. Came home to make some dinner and went back out again. Probably surfed a combined 5+ hours in alright conditions. It was less crowded after dinner than it was in the afternoon.

 

I made it out after work againe today for about 2hrs. Last hour before high tide and the 1st hour of outgoing. Conditions weren't great but it was still fun. It was deep, a little bumpy but the wave face was clean. Light sea breeze made it manageable. There was tons of backwash for some reason today, so it was tricky but I caught a bunch despite the funky wobble.

Wave of the session was a late takeoff, about chest high, I was on the LB so I slid back a little bit to prevent pearling since the wave was already pitching and was a steep one. It worked out perfect, the wave shot me out like a cannon and I went for a long ride to shore finished by kicking out just before the sand and avoided getting pounded.

So many bumpy rides it was like a rodeo but this one was smooth and clean. Made my session. I was the only guy out. Nice little run of waves in June, I'll take it.

 

Flat again.. Did not paddle , cycled 12 miles instead this morning 5AM. Nice and cool temps along the ocean drive. Getting in pulmonary shape for Fall wave season. Hope we get some hurricanes parking their rotating asses 500 miles offshore for a few days duration.

 

Just got back to the states after a week in San Jose Del Cabo. Had a couple pretty fun sessions at various breaks in San Jose. Size was pretty beefy all week. It ranged from head to double OH. Mornings started off with light off shores and then became mild onshore as the day progressed. Got one almost perfect day at old mans, a reef break in Costa Azul. It was well OH that day with 10'+ sets every 15 mins or so. 100-200 yard rides with ample opportunity to carve it up as you pleased. There was a small crowd and I caught tons of fun ones. Long ass paddles back out dodging big fat sets. The clarity and aqua blueness of the water out there is amazing. Some cool aquatic life too. Lots of rays breaching around me as I was out.

Did several sessions at the estuary, which was just a short walk from our hotel. I couldn't ever really get down with it though. You had to basically rebound off white wash on 75% of waves and doing that with very big fast groundswell was not easy for me. I had a very early morning DP there on Thursday. It was definitely kinda spooky being out before the sun was up, but when it came up it was all worth it. Gorgeous views. Surfed blown out zippers later that same day. Got one that lined up really nice for me.

The culture in town was cool too. My girl and I got out and explored the local area a little bit, without being kidnapped. Overall it was a really good time, but I'm glad to be home. Ready to score a little bit in Jerz over the next two days.

I have some sick pix but SI is being funky on the uploads. Will try later.

 

That's pretty suite! Glad you had a good trip!

I've just went a rare two straight days without surfing. At least it's been pretty rare over these last 6 weeks. Looks like I'll be back at it tomorrow. It was flat on Thursday and nothing really worth getting in the water and putting on a suite on Friday.

 

Nice

 

More knee - waist waves on the LB yesterday evening. 2 hrs before high tide, it was getting deep and soft but it was breaking fairly consistent. Nothing too special but I had fun.

 

Flat today.
And I am being recruited to spend the day with my daughter and grand-daughter.
Bye bye beach for today!!!!

 

Here's a couple Cabo shots for the buoys.

 

3hrs of small but very fun waves this morning. Wind was calm, water was warm and glassy, waves were knee - waist and consistent on incoming / outgoing high tide.

Had the place to myself much of the morning. It was weird, one second nobody is around but a couple kook fisherman casting in my direction, then suddenly I hear someone on a megaphone and I turn and look and there's like 50+ people and tents and surf boarts.

They were having a contest about 150 - 200 yards down the beach. It was so strange how fast the vibe changed. I caught about a thousand waves at this point so I was content with leaving. I caught a few more and on my last ride, I rode through one of the fisherman's line. Good times.

 

waves are pretty good right now in nomoco.only issue is theres no firkin parkin

 

Really good this morning... I fished last light last night and knew it would be solid 4' south swell with a hella current. This morning saw that and more, with a few head high waves scattered around. Got two nice barrels.

 

Nice dreamy photos those are some sizable waves and the look kinda gentle for their size

 

This afternoon for a bit...small waist, kinda weak, never got in sync and just couldn't get in the groove...but still worth getting wet...once again...strong s,sw wind yesterday = cold water

 

I forgot to mention I've seen this huge sea turtle hanging out the last few days, same with the manatees, they've been chilling right there in the lineup or just outside. Pretty cool to see them up close between waves.

 

Day of dreams today.

Found a good bar with no one else in sight.
Head high plus with solid consistent energy.
Offshore long peeling southerly lines all day.

Hot sunny beach day. Good amount of talent on the beach but all alone in the water.
Reminded me of France in September.

Went up after dinner to go for round three and some popular spots were empty and still good at high tide.
Wanted to surf again but Im smoked.