Congrats bassmon! I've done a lot of stupid things in my life, but a couple times I was smart. One was taking the ring off my crazy ex's finger and not marrying her. The other was putting a ring on the finger of the right girl. We're going on 17 years now. And oh yeah something something went surfing it was typical summer longboard stuff but had fun yada yada yada.
She's paying for a surf trip for you? That's pretty suite! Congrats! I put a ring on the right girl, just didn't marry her before she got tired of me not setting a day and just fell out of love with me. Just 4 years ago I was thinking I was gonna have at least one kid and be married before long, even though I was 42 at the time and would be over twice as old as my parents were when they had me. Since she's been gone, I've come to terms with the fact that I'm probably not gonna have a family. I've had two women that ''Got away'' because of my procrastination. The first one was when I was 26 and the second was when I was 42. I'm probably not cut out for that kind of life.One day I hope to settle down and maybe just have a live-in relationship again, but no marriage and no kids. I'm open to meeting a woman that already has children and would take an interest in them, but I'd hope their biological father was in their life also. I envy you guys, even though I've accepted the life that I've chosen for myself. And yeah, I had one of those longboard days here. Got a good 3 hours in, fairly crowded for a Monday. I expect the crowds to be here for good now, until Labor Day. Even on the weekdays.
Surfed Masonboro Island this morning with about 50 of my best friends... knee to thigh and perfectly glassy. Rode the Mini Simmons... out of the water by 7:30. Running the boat back to the marina and it was so smooth you could hear the spray off the side of the boat hit the water. B-E-A-U-T-I-F-U-L.
Sorry it didn't work out for ya man. Hopefully if you get another opportunity with a great gal you'll do it right next time. GL.
Well... The wind chop got up to around 3 ft this mornin, so I went bodysurfin in the shorepound at the Pleasure Pier (25th St). Had a blast. The lifeguard was out there teachin a herd of aspiring grommet JR guards how to bodysurf using their buoys. These were kids, like, 10 yrs old, I'm guessin. They were laughin their a$$es off and havin almost as much fun as me. If that stoke wasn't enough, some amigas were sharin a rental boart near me. Takin turns pushin each other into waves. They were hootin and hollerin like it was New Years out there. Quite a few successful pop ups, too. I was gettin barrelled in the shore pound, felt like every 2 minutes, for a couple hours. It was a fun mornin.
Flatter than than a random rinky dink lake in Upstate New York today. The water had a nice color to it though. I felt like I was at Venice Jetties in Florida today, with how flat it was. The water color wasn't quite THAT nice though haha. Had a couple longbort days on Monday and Tuesday. Yesterday was kind of alright for the longbort. Was only in the water for a couple hours. Leaving for California for a few days, hope to surf at least a little bit.
Arnold won't, but the man in the grey suit might. My buddy Chad won't even go up there with me anymore. We got chased out of the water last Summer twice in 1 day, first at 1 & then at 5, and he hasn't wanted to go back since. I'm down though, I haven't been up there since my Parks pass expired last Sept. To be honest, I haven't left the neighborhood in a couple of weeks. I think I surfed Swarmi's n my preferred reef once each in the last month. Waves have been very consistent lately, with a combo short interval NW wind swell crossed up with a mid period, 2-4' @ 15-18s. S/SW that has been really fun. Evening glass offs have been better than the mornings. Water temp has been pretty wild though, with the scripps buoy registering a 10° drop in one day. Sunday I was freezing and yesterday I was comfortable trunking it with 2mm long sleeve top. I've got the 30th through the 4th off for surf. Other than that my ONLY plans include extensive BBQing, wrenching on my car, the garden, continuing my eternal war with the gophers, watching as many parades and fireworks shows as I can, and whisky. You, Short Round, and Eatswell are all welcome to partake in brown liquids and burnt meat with me ; ) I make no promises regarding safe passage and the governator
LA area. I usually surf the area around Manhattan and Redondo Beach when I'm there. Sometimes El Porto, up by that big ****in power station on the beach. Occasionally I go to Seal Beach, which is a favorite spot of my friend who lives out there. That's only when I have enough time. Luckily I've taken a couple extra days and added them on to what is a business trip for me.
Dang - - that's a helluva thing, getting chased by whitey. Gracias, senor; I'll make it back out there, whiskey in tow, just not this wknd. Sounds like you have a simple & magnificent holiday wknd lined up, Z