who here has been surfing this week?

Salps.

 

four hours today with a break to gulp down water and snap a few pics. Typically summer time waves with chilly water temps and a bit more shape to the waves once the time came in for a couple hours. Hope you got some Coop. I thought it was pretty fun.

From around noon on Delmarva:

 

I'm in AC for a week so I'm shredding whatever slop we get every day. Fun little waist/ stomach swell today. The S swell mixing with E made it a little funky, but there were plenty of fun lephs to be had. Quite a lot of cats out here, but I didn't mind. Had it all to myself at 5:30 for a good bit. Didn't get out of the water until 10:30. Not sure how I wasn't parched. Friday/Sat looks like it might be fun.

Getting ready to take the lady out on her wavestorm. Might grab a couple on it myself. Yeww.

 

Was a little late to the plate Mitchell...My buddy's were there earlier and naturally said it was better. Did get a little push early afternoon.

On a side note, parking lot full at 11. I knew it was gonna be bad because of the holiday but had to work and got off at 11 and figured I would probably be ok...a few minutes later...nope. Dropped the wife off and all the crap and parked on the other side of the bay and had to walk back to the beach. Thank god my my buddies were there...would of turned around and gone home if not, no way was I gonna walk both ways. The national looked like it was backed up right at the turn, not sure tho...could of been caused by horse gazers. Regardless great day on the beach.

 

So, the only issue with leaving where I live @ 130am for the 3 hr drive to TPTSNBN is that the bars are emptying out. Why so many people think they can get drunk & then drive is truly beyond me.

Crossing the Bay Bridge, guy in a sports car up ahead is swerving in both lanes. He finally sideswipes the concrete barrier on the left, slurves all the way over & bangs off the concrete barrier on the right....and then keeps on driving! I call 911, they say "we are aware & a trooper will be on the scene momentarily."

Guy was hammered. Almost misses the exit just past Stevensville, slows to a crawl, then scurries off the exit into local roadways. I follow him. Thinking this guy is gonna head-on & kill someone. Bang! Statie comes from out of nowhere & locks him down.

Arrive State early. Waves not looking great. No-see-ums looking for me, en masse. Chatted with one of the good guys from SI, then I headed to TPTSNBN.

Waves looked good there, esp as tide dropped out, & I had a very fun morning session of 2.5 hrs. Clean rights that held up for 150-200 yds. Some fun lefts, too. Water cold. 3/2. Had a great time.

Bolted at 10am. TPTSNBN was maxed out at 145 vehicles, with line of angry, frustrated beach-goers waiting 1-2 hrs to get in. Line was out past the traffic circle. Smooth glide home, missed all of the Sunday traffic.
Was a good day.

 

yanks a narc

additionally i have been fighting fire and surfing whenever i have a day on district. Ussually this means dawn patrol at 5 or 5:30 (sometimes getting in the water at dark, when even the hearty oregonian seals and sea lions dont stray too far from the beach for good reason) and going again if im lucky after work around 8 or 9. 12- 16 hour work days with no foreseeable day off are a pain but should have a couple grand coming my way for the past two weeks or so. Havent gotten more than 5 hours of sleep since the middle of june but have been in the water every day im not on a fire.

5 mil year round but waves everyday

 

yesterday morning off hi tide proved fruitful at Folly. semi chop gradually got worse, but was able to land waist hi rides on a shorty bullit. just another dude a block down, but about 30 min pplz came out the woodwork. lotta longboards at the washout, kinda surprised - was rideable with the right shorty. Got two sessions in the drift, fast n shortlived. worth it

 

Says the self-professed high-functioning alcoholic named trevolution.

You're likely joking. Yet......given your history as an alcoholic, perhaps you're not joking.

My experience of losing family to a drunk driver is glaringly different from your youthful, ignorant, arrogant, egotistical & clueless life.

Not trying to turn the only surfing treade on SI into a treade on alcoholics / alcoholism.

Just sayin'.....soon, the party stops.

You're no longer Prince Charming when you 'have a few.' You're 'that guy' the obnoxious ass & no one is cutting you any slack anymore. You're no longer the fire chasin' adventurin' surfin' dude. You just don't recognize the signs.

If you're not drinking solo now, you will be soon.

You'll lose interest in your gf (sex), and eventually she will bail, either through cheating or her telling you, in the rare event that she's a great gal, that you no haven't met her sexual needs in a long time. You'll blame this event on her character defects & 'she doesn't understand me.'

John Barleycorn is insidious, kid.

You ramble endlessly at parties. The invitations stop coming.
You put on a paunch; tell yourself, you can work that off anytime you want to.
You don't paddle out as much for DP, cause you don't feel like it but 'you're not hungover.'
You look for free booze events, happy hours or cheap booze on airplanes, cause 'that's how you roll.'

You're in for a rough stretch of road. Without a doubt. Guaranteed. Your worst problem is that guy staring, bleary-eyed, back at you in the mirror.

I'm looking forward to the swell coming in this week & next & next. Surf treade ......!

 

Well finally got out real early this morning, in the water at 4:50AM, small wave surfing on longboard then a 2 mile paddle.
Just got back home; time for me coffee!!
Life is good at Cuda Mansion!!!
And daughter and grandaughter were here last 4 days , but they returned yesterday to their home 2 hours away. Fun--I bought a little inflatable pool and she sat in it with mom and grandmom and splashed around. She wants to go to Bali next!!!

 

i reiterate yanks a narc.

no drinking surfing or not sleeping on the forest floor for the past two weeks, enjoying waves beer and beds now. dont project your insecurities, past failures and presumptions on other people. almost as bad as trying the whole beating someone senseless with relgious or political ideologies. sorry youve had those things happen to you but don't apply them to me. I havent missed a dawn patrol due to being hungover ever, i just puke in the line up if necessary.

the guy staring at me in the mirror is bleary eyed because i work 16 hour days in an extremely dangerous environment and still manage to get in the water before the sun comes up every day. can you say the same commuting 3 hours to waiste high shwag a few times a month?

its fine man i dont expect an office monkey to understand the cultural nuances of the wildland fire community. beer is an essential element. when your lucky to live through your work year and are never sure if you will, you take your jollies when you can find em

 

Yankee did the right thing. He called the cops because the guy was intoxicated and was unable to maintain control of his vehicle -- not because he was intoxicated.

I actually see a parallel in what Yankee did and what you do fighting fires. He was trying keep people safe. That is always a noble thing to do.

 

Surprisingly fun morning. Wanted to head to my little "point" but since the swell was looking small i decided it wasn't worth the effort to get there. Just headed the the normal break. First check.... flat. It was dead high tide. There was some promising looking lines though so i waited it out. Eventually after about 2 hours i found a nice little spot to myself (and two buds). Thigh high little peelers. Much more fun than i expected. Really should of been on a LB but didn't feel like it so i ride the mini. It was eating those waves up. Rights and lefts. Pretty cruisey. It was mostly lofty up and down the face grooving. Some of the slightly bigger, almost waist but not quite.... those guys walled up a bit more allowing for some drawn out cutbacks and what not. But you really had to ease through it to not lose the wave.

It was fun. Saw some old friends. Saw one of my best friends in the line up and asked him to be a groomsman. Surfed for about 3 hours. And the crowd never got to out of hand.

Enjoy the 4th everybody

 

At one time in my life when younger, it was my job to get drunks/DUIs of the road.
I jailed a lot of them, including a Catholic Archbishop, and a few other political notables. I would not let one of them off, but I could not stop liberal judges from sucking their cucks......

Having digressed, I return to say--it is now FLAT here in Moo Hampshire. Glad I went out real early today.

 

Yup. Don't wanna hijack the surfin tread, but...

Monday mornin around 1 am, 2 perfectly innocent dudes, not doin a DAMN thing wrong but bein in the wrong place at the wrong time, got fvckin KILLED by someone who was too wasted to be drivin. Few miles from my house. Ya get outa your truck to tie yer sh!t down. Yer WAY off the road. Outa nowhere... BOOM! Dead.

If yer able to drive, party on dude.

If ya ain't, I got a problem wit dat.

Call a fvckin cab, walk home, or somethin.



http://www.fox26houston.com/news/265411384-story

 

Yesterday I went for a paddle thinking it probably would be flat, but there was 2ft @ 8 sec on the buoy so I left a little room for hope. Low expectations, paddle out, clean and calm, nice looking lines coming in but very small. I just started paddling and every now and then one came through. Ended up catching 10-12 waves. Nothing special but fun enough to make my morning.

More of the same today, maybe a little better. This time my wife joined me. She caught several on her belly and had a blast. I caught a good dozen or so knee / thigh sliders, some held a line for a long one, despite the size, the shape kept my boart movin.

Now off to have lunch, listen to live music, and have a few cold ones. Happy 4th everybody! God Bless America!

 

i agree the narc comment is a joke, although following someone home is kinda creepy. in my opinion drunk drivers should be shot where they stand.

but i digress hoping for a fourth of july surf today but well probably get a fire caused by some dumb drunk idiot using fireworks in the wrong place. pretty sleep deprived and delusional but at least im getting a few hours in the water each day this week so far although my wetsuit is full of poison oak and i have to surf predawn and post sunset. this whole working thing is lame cant wait to bankrupt the system with social service handouts once i get laid off. sometimes i dream ill get fired so i can bum around indo looks like there getting swell. o well if i live through the summer maybe ill head there for the tail end in november if the sopac is still kicking

 

We'd probably all be dead.

Surfed yesterday and the day before... really fun, summertime surf. Warm, clear water... a little offshore wind... bright sunshine... and just enough swell to keep you in the water until you ran out of time.

 

You're hammered when you posted this.

It would be easy to just say hey kid, you're a jackass. I will refrain.

I didn't follow the guy home, sparkye. Read my post. Ah, when you're sober.

I followed him off the freeway onto the 2-lane roads where he would, certainly, kill someone. Staties appeared & took him out. Darwin's Waiting Room, sparkye: nvr empty.

Life is scar tissue, kid. You'll figure it out. Someday.

 

TPTSNBN is lookin'......possible ............ this week / wknd /next week / wknd.....

What an assmazing run of swell, certainly not epic butt tons of fun, that we have been blessed with in June & July.