who here has been surfing this week?

Really fun session this morning on the Flashback Fish, way better than last evening. Still a solid chest high on sets and much cleaner and more lined up. It still had a little bump on the surface but the wave faces were clean. It was a little slow for the 1st 30 minutes prior to sunrise but when the sun came out and the tide started to fill in it was consistent and I caught a bunch for the next 90 minutes. I got a few lefts early but then it was all rights which allowed me to pull off several backside roundhouse snaps off the lip, which felt amazing considering I haven't had a wave to do those on in what seems like forever. I could use a little more size though, haven't taken out the M-80 in a minute.

 

Northern OBX has had a little bump up in past 1-2 days. Some fun waist to belly high sets. Perfect for teaching the little ones to surf. Not good enough to break out a real board for, but fun. Capturing the kids expressions via gopro as they catch their first waves is priceless. Makes for a good excuse to get some cheesey footage of myself as well.

Only drawback is the water teps. Upwelling is intense here.

 

That photo showing Shortsleeve jacket and bathing suit is not intense upwelling. Dude.

 

From mid to upper 70s down to low 60s in what seems like about 24hrs is intense for me. Luckily it seems like lower 60s is about as low as its going so not too bad.

 

I've been checking the OBX surf reports for the past few mornings and I've noticed the water temps. It's crazy because, by water, I'm maybe 100 miles away and the water here is 82 degrees. I would seriously move to the Outer Banks if the water wasn't always consistently ALOT colder. I need 6 months on, 6 months off of wetsuits. Even if I just wanted to jump in for a swim or something it's too much. Strike missions will do.

 

Yea... the 5mil is a drag. But I don't mind the 3/2 at all. Even making the transition from a 5/4 to a 4/3 is huge for me.

 

Try a 6 mil- they really suck....

 

Got some of the windchoppe from that tropical wave for a few hours last night with my buddy. Knee to waist high plus little lumps. More fun than I thought it would be after my initial sande reconne. Water isn't the putrid steam bath yet so that was nice. Nobody else around even on the beach. Wildlife consisted of a dead opossum on the beach stinking the place up so onshore winds helped with that. There's still some surf around today but I've got a concert to attend later. Still good to get wet.

 

Low 60's is not cold or intense. Please

 

low-mid 70s in Delaware today. Felt great, and some nice waist high chunks were rolling in. Small waves are a lot more fun in trunks, IMO.

 

I got the rare Friday evening session. was fun at TPTSNBN. how bout the storms? freaking doozy

 

I'd love 6 months off from wetsuits, but it's typically only 3 months off from wetsuits in Jersey. Probably used to be 4 months for me, back when I was just a little bit younger and would shed the rubber a few degrees cooler than I do now. My buddy in Northern Florida says he wears them usually only from November-March and is usually able to shed them in early April, aside from a few days where the air temperature is too cold. That's in Jacksonville. Then my friend in Palm Beach County (the land of barely any surf) only needs a Spring suit or a 3/2 on days where the air temps are really cool, as the water barely ever drops below 70-73 degrees there, even in February.

Even in Southern California my friends need them for about 9-10 months a yearly. Some of them don't even own a 4/3 though. It's basically 3/2's most of the year, as their water temps barely drop below the upper 50's. I sometimes see people still wearing their 3/2 when the water gets to about 76-78 here in August. That doesn't work for me.

 

Our upwellings bring in icebergs, sunken liners, dead Russian sailors, sunken Russian nuclear subs.........

 

Fun morning. Small and weak but clean. A few 20 min or so lulls. But also had periods of wave after wave after wave. Waist high rights with a nice long wall. Had to be patient and get the right ones to wall up, but they were there. I almost didn't paddle out. Glad i did. Fun vibe in the water today too. Crowd didn't realize how to pale against the drift to stay in position so it wasn't bad.

Towelie, if your out there, did you surf central LI today? Was surfing next to a guy who had a board that looked like one you posted on here awhile back. It's a stretch but you popped into my head when i saw the board.

 

I don't understand, you weren't using a real board? You were using a fake board? What is a real board?
I've been down at and around the Ligthouse for 3 days. It's been at least waist high every day. Two sessions a day on my real board. My real board is a fish. That counts as real right? This is July. I'm VERY happy to get 3'straigt days of waves in July, waist high, upwelling, or otherwise. If there was upwelling down here I didn't notice it.

 

BTW, I'm glad you got to get your kids stoked like that. This is my youngest son's first trip to Buxton and he's been loving it. The furthest south he's been in the OBX prior was Rodanthe. Plus, we paddled out to the new island which was cool.

 

I had a 6/5/4 once.... Once.

 

Yo Z,
I was at your stomping grounds on Monday AM. IRI Norte. Not sure what the tides are like there but it was a lake. Is there a sandbar out there? It looks really deep.

 

Monday afternoon we cruised down to OC MD at 29th street. It was a knee to thigh and and ride-able. That's was good enough to get the boards wet. There was a place a couple blocks down on Philadelphia avenue that sells hot donuts. They were f@cking fantastic.

 

After looking at the reports we decided to head from OC to Sandbridge campsite and then onto OBX as TPTSNBN and VA Beach looked kinda beat. We arrived at North Bayshore campground. Nice place and a great restaurant up the street called Margie and Rays. Minimal surf in Sandbridge so we body surfed and checked out the hot azz on the beach. Then the pain hit.