2 board quiver

Stoked on the topic. If I lived somewhere with consistent waves, I could handle a two board quiver. The dream is to retire to Nicaragua. There I think I could live with a wider shortboard (think Coil M80, Pyzel Pyzalien, etc.) and a step up. However, living in SENC, two boards is not an option if you actually want to surf. Right now, my main boards:

1. 5'6" Mini Simmons.... yeah, what the other guys have said;

2. 9'3" LB. Don't ride it much, but have fun when I do. Greg Eavey is the man.

3. 6'0" Coil M80... diamond tail. Anything waste high to overhead;

4. 6'1" Pyzel Pyzalien... a little more upside than the Coil, but really the two are interchangeable. The way I've been breaking boards the last couple years, I need two daily drivers; and

5. 6'3" step up. I can ride it up to double overhead, which I only get on trips and is as big as I care to ride. Oh... its a Pyzel custom round tail.

I have a few others... couple of twin fin fishy board and a mid length singe fin. If we get a run of a few days swell, I will bust them out for some novelty/fun. Otherwise, we typically get one day, at most, for swell, and a lot of times just a few hours.

My favorite saying is that east coast surfers have so many boards because our waves suck so bad. If we had good waves, we wouldn't care or need so many boards.

 

that's your fav saying? i've heard this: There's always waves, you're just not using the right equipment (pretty sure that doesn't apply to lakes or the Gulf of Mexico haha)

 

I was a complete moron till I hit 30 something, and took up a LB to paddle when it went flat. Then, lo and behold, I was out surfing days I could only mindsurf on my potato chips. Even a fat fish was a struggle. I remember a friend telling me waist high on a LB can be an epic session, and I thought, no way.

 

Agreed. I was resistant to the LB for years, when I finally got one it changed everything for me. Waist high with a long line that holds can definitely be a great session, I just had one like that on Sunday.

 

Yup. I think i was 25. Riding a LB really helped my style and flow on shorter boards. Better late than never!

 

You still are a moron.....

 

I rode nothing but shortboards for more than 20 years... until I got tired of sitting on the beach watching old dudes cruising on knee high days and having fun. Then I built myself an 8'6, and realized that while cruising is fun, it got boring for me quickly. I needed something that would noseride. So my next "real" longboard was a borrowed 9'8 log from 1969, which I learned to noseride on. But then I realized 9'8 was too long, and with all that weight it was too unresponsive for me in little New Jersey beachbreak waves... that 9'8 was more for long, peeling points out in California.

So then I built myself a 9'2 HPLB out of EPS/epoxy... 2+1. It worked way better for me than the old log, and my longboard surfing progressed rapidly. When it finally broke, I built myself another one just like it... same materials. And broke that, too.

In the meantime, my longboarding had matured. I finally began to separate... stylistically... how to ride a wave differently on different boards, longboards included. Just as a fish is ridden differently than a shortboard, a longboard is ridden differently than a fish... something I had been trying to do on these light, responsive longboards I was riding at the time: approaching wave riding on a high performance longboard the way I approached the wave on a fish... going at the lip vertically, using a lot of rail, etc. I finally understood and began to fully appreciate longboarding as a totally unique and fundamentally different way to ride waves... ways that you simply can't do on any other board - specifically, pivot turns, soul arching bottom turns, fading drop-knee turns, and the most interesting thing of all... noseriding.

Eventually, what inspired me the most about longboarding is that it was so different. And to take full advantage of those differences required a different kind of design. So I built myself an "East Coast Log"... a lighter, more modernized version of the old 60's logs... 9'3, PU/PE, single fin (I eventually settled on a long, raked flex fin), with nose concave, a flat middle section, and rolled vee in the tail. A simple design, but very clean and versatile in small local waves. I rode that board to death...

Today I'm on an exaggerated version of that same design, even more suited to the waves I ride it in: a little more rocker, a little deeper nose concave, a little more vee in the tail, a little thinner rail... and little lighter, but still PU/PE for that glide and stability on the tip. Finally, now it it's 4th or 5th generation, I've found the perfect longboard for me, for beachbreak waves knee to waist high. A little more responsive than the older style logs... because the waves demand it. But still a true, traditional longboard in every sense.

 

I know what you are saying, but that doesn't make the waves good. Just because you can ride an ankle high wave, and have more fun than not surfing, does not mean that there are actually good waves. The overall point is that if we actually had good waves, we wouldn't need or want longboards and other boards for crappy small surf. If I lived in Nicaragua, I wouldn't ever ride a long board, or a mini simmons.

 

Couldn't agree more!

 

This, once again is my 2 board quiver, except I got rid of the Lopez,and I cannot count.
I use them all, when called for. I am going to re-buy another Lopez soon.......

 

5'10 Ashton round-nose squash quad and a 6'2 Ashton summer squash. got 6 other boards but those are my 2 for Jersey waves.

 

...or a hybrid longboard with enough length to catch teeny waves, and enough rocker and pulled in template to handle OH+

Can you post a picture? I'm probably going to need a new LB in the next year or so, and (after reading up on Ekstrom and more recently Ryan Burch's forays into asyms) am considering getting an asym shaped for me.

Longboarding and I found each other somewhere around 1979-82, I was 16-19. I was telling a coworker that I wanted to find an old longboard (nobody made new ones then). She said "oh, we have one of those." I said "you want to sell it"? She called up her mother (apparently it was mom's board?) who GAVE me a vintage 10'0" Weber Performer, hatchet fin and all! I've retired that one, and replaced it with the board in my aviator in 1995. It is a 1+2 fin setup, rocker throughout, concave in the nose, and with an outline and tail thinness that allows it to work in large surf (it was shaped on the North Shore). I've ridden that board, almost exclusively for 20+ years. I've always loved the glide of a LB. The thrill of applying that glide to OH surf is really quite remarkable. (hyperglide anyone?) Laying that thing on its rail at the bottom of an overhead wave is nirvana.

It isn't for everybody, but for me, I've found what works.

 

9'2" Gary Wilson Butternut
7'6" Ugly beat up Wookie board
6'8" Cannibal

Pretty much on the LB all the time these days. With some more push will get out the Wookie, but the LB glides like a dream. The Cannibal comes out when it gets big enough to require duck diving, but my health has kept me from going out in anything like that in recent memory. Hopefully will get strong enough to be able to do that soon.

I'm just glad to be able to still get out on anything at all. At this point last year I didn't know if I was done for good. Used to get pissed sometimes if I wasn't catching or riding well, now if I kook out and blow it I just laugh, as it's just good to be out.

 

Are you talking about women or surfboards?

 

5'10" Dumpster Diver or 5'10 Lost V3 are my two go to boards, but prob lean more towards my Diver.

 

View my picture in post # 31. The G&S Competition Round Tail pictured far right is exactly what you describe. Great in small waves, fantastic in 8 footers. That one is a 9'2", a bit bigger than I would normally use in LBs, but still great.

 

I've taken my old HPLB (2 + 1 fin set up / epoxy, lightweight, narrow with rocker - it's gone, destroyed in a redheaded rage) out in way OH surf by accident. It didn't look too big from shore, when I got outside there were occasional 9 - 10 foot sets, very clean and breaking slow at first. What a trip! I have never gone so fast before on a surfboard in my life. A total rush, and kinda scary once I came flying into the inside section, a lot of fiberglass to maneuver. I'd take the right LB out in big surf, as long as there were long lulls to gather my **** once it got handed to me.

 

I love riding my 9' HPLB in juicy surf. I've been waiting for the right day to take it out when it's big again. I've done it before, but it's been a while since we've had a perfect lined up bigger day.

The nicely foiled rounded pin tail and 9" Greenough 4-A single fin I have in it works great, I have it pushed all the way up in the box. This boart has plenty of rocker for the steep drops. Turns on a dime, and it nose rides too. I had it shaped as a single only, no need for the side bites. She screams and is smoooooothe as butter on the turns.

 

Hahaha. You're the guy that brings is 7'10 gun out on waist high days.