1:39, 1:40ish, LOL! Hope that paddle got stuck up his a$$! What happens when a paddle is lost in the impact zone on a day like this? More flotsam to negotiate? I remember Brad Domke's interview about his epic ride's on a skim board there. Before he pulled off his barrel he got worked in a big closeout, 45 minutes of trying to get out, didn't sound too fun
Yeah man. I mean I'd say nope to any big heavy world class wave like that.... But that being a beach break..... extra nope. I don't understand how that place gets so big without closing out. That was a good butt though
I wouldn't be caught dead surfing that. Well, maybe that's the only way I would be caught surfing that.
I hear a lot of clucking within this thread. Were I your guys age, no question I would be out there, with the proper board. It isn't that hard, clickers...... cluck, cluck, cluck
Had a friend paddle out there with his non surfing brother on a head high plus day. First wave on the way out guillotines his brother square on the small of his back. Broke his back and the board under him. Another buddy likes to talk big about what he would do when we were younger, surf jacking pipeline, mavericks etc. I tell him its easy to sit back and say that now when there is no chance of it happening. My gauge has always been this, does that look fun? If the answer is no, it looks scary and dangerous with a chance at glory, I'm out. There are things in life worth risking everything for, and things not worth any risk. My family and country is worth every risk, my ego is worth nothing.
Ive watched that place pump out perfect A-frames 30-40ft faces during a peaking southern hemi swell. Of course, I watched from the beach, which was one of the most amazing things to see. Paddled out a few days later, it was 8-12ft faces. I was super nervous amd only caught one wave. Place is heavy and scary when it gets size.
At least you went out--8-12ft faces is good enough. Hopefully, you had the proper board and properly tied leash..... And one wave is plenty--when surfing large waves, waiting for the proper wave takes time, lots of time.
They do not go straight out through the waves; most walk up north around the break then paddle down to it. To lazy to walk a bit??
lol that was cool when the sup'er fell and the guy gave him the finger. Puerto is such a freak of a wave,i think it looks awesome,but I also know its one of the most dangerous spots in the world,plenty have died,plenty have become paralyzed bound for a wheelchair for eternity. is it worth it?idk,my limit there would probably be 10-12ft and that's really pushing my luck ,over 20ft no phackin way
30-40'+, 6xOH, Maxed out, Puerto Escondido "It isn't that hard." - Barney Cuda about one of the gnarliest beach breaks in the world. Me, anything over legit Hawaiian style, DOH and I'm out of my comfort zone. I can count the number of honest to G-D, triple overhead + waves I've caught in my life on one hand and have digits left over. Barry don't you live bumblefüćkegypt, New Hampshire? When was the last time you even saw a rideable wave?
No guts, no glory. Coward. Get yo azz down there and stop clucking. You can do it. Btw, those ways were not 30-40 ft. And not maxed out, you clucker. Big? Hell yes...but you can do it, with the proper board. But then again, a 5'6" twin fin garbage trash board you ride ain't it. Now go do it and report back.
Close to it. Long time ago--Tres Palmas. Most recent, 12-14 foot faces- 2 years ago, same location. Now?? Getting too old, limit 12 foot faces about. Big secret--surfing large surf is much easier than surfing smaller crap.
15-20 years ago I woulda been scared but would of had a go at it for sure. Biggest waves I ever surfed were 15-20 faces at G-Land when I was 30. I was training hard at the time, traveling constantly to world class destinations, and was comfortable in heavy situations. Today at my age and less frequent BIG days. Nah. Just give me 10-12 footers now and I'd be happy.