80's Surfing and Cultre

There was a shop right on the other side of 36, same road as where Moceans was in the end. Small place in an old storefront? I bought an MTB twin fin there, really obnoxious red checkered design. That might have been my favorite board of all time. Who remembers Zodiac surfboards? Really cheap, like $299 each. I had one and liked it, my buddy was forced to ride it once and said it was worst board he ever surfed.

 

Agreed. Other than a 1976 6'8" gerry lopez lighning bolt wing pin single fin that was my first tubes i had a bunch of really crap boards when i first began that really held back any hope of progress. Made me who i am today. A struggling kook.

 

Surfing seven presidents, pull right up and park, 1982, bleak, get fries at gaskins just to use the bathroom and warm up. There were some good local surfers. Weird wave compared to chadwick over the ledge late takeoffs, they were up ripping the slopey peak before it broke! I could never figure that place out. Then i took my friends down here and they got hammered.

 

does anyone remember Triple X surfboards?
Shaped in mobeach,I think he had a shop briefly.
Atlantic Ave SS

 

Now that sucks. I thought they moved to Belmar at some point. I remember hearing they were looking for a sander and I considered applying. Too bad DaMole is not doing well, he was probably the only shop owner that I felt really talked to me rather than past me or through me back then. Derf was a good guy too, but I always felt like the shop was for rich kids and Moceans was for the poor kids of which I was one.

 

I could see that with Derf. I have a tendency to think the problem is with myself first rather than seeing the shortcoming of the person I'm dealing with. For that reason the things you noticed went right over my head as I tried to be "cool" to. But the fact remains that at Moceans I felt at home and not looked down on and had no reason to try and be cool in that shop. That whole area from seven presidents to the white wall was a surf Mecca to me. Remember that break on the other side of the north jetty in front of the wall where it would break right into the rocks in front of those town houses? I liked that spot.

 

Was it all in the north side of the pier? Like the haunted mansion pier? I was at the pier once and the south side looked nice under the lights but after that I never saw it breaking again. I was stopped by the cops down there one night at 2 in the morning. Pulled from the car and frisked, was there a windmill or something down there? Near Monmouth university? Sorry it's been so long since I've been there I'm trying to place what was considered west end, cedar avenue maybe?

 

I remember,think it was like 4-5 yrs ago a swell a few days before thanksgiving washed up a cement piling or a buoy or something,dont really remember what it was,but it was bobbing in the lineup for a week lol,in west end.do u remember that,i think I have a pic of it on one of my old cameras.also after sandy there were some 8x8 wood posts floating around,always something good in the water lol.i spent a lot of time in lb when I first started surfing,after sandy nomoco started breaking again and havnt needed to travel

 

nice. I graduated in 83. Tried the College of Charleston for a year, but ended up skateboarding, "surfing" and partying all the time. I couldn't surf frontside yet and my board was way too small for me, so it would basically sink after the take-off...but it was so good looking (excellent airbrush and it was a thruster, which was pretty new and kinda rare at the time) that I didn't want to even think about another board. Natural Art was the most desirable brand on the east coast back then (the "Channel Islands" of the east coast).

After dropping out of COC, tried to art school in Fort Lauderdale for a couple years...and finally got a thicker twin that actually floated me (but it was plain white).

Then jumped to Los Angeles for the rest of the 80s - thanks to a cool/alcoholic aunt that let me crash on her sofa. She was sloshed on wine most of the time, which allowed me to overstay my welcome for about a year (not proud of it). Her house was about 7 miles from the beach and I didn't have a car, so I usually skateboarded (gladly) to the beach every day. After finally scraping up enough money to buy a brand new local board...I proceeded to "flat-top" the fins within the first week, while skating down a steep hill, board under arm, and eating sh!t. Didn't learn how to surf really well until I moved to Nor Cal in the 90s.

 

Used to spend summers on LBI in the 80's. Had a board shaped by skip free. Any of you LBI guys remember him?

 

Skip Frye

 

Grew up in Squan.. Main Street and GeeGee's was home. First board was in '73, David Nuuhiwa Fish 5' 10" swallow glassed on fins. I'd buy it back in a second.

 

In 1970 i had a 5 4 hobie shaped by munoz in 1970 and a 6 ft corky carrol spacestick .i wish i still had that hobie the corky carrol spacestick was a pos

 

first time i surfed a good sized swell in buxton was june 1970 also first time i surfed the lighthouse.