Sunday surf stories, share! (11/15)

I swear I was going to start the same thread haha. But I know right I made a trip down from UD, tore a ligament in my right knee yesterday so I had to bodyboard . Sad but I still got pitted and the glassiness and the pink and purple water from the sunset backdrop. And you looked over at the point and there was this awesome haze there. Yeah man that light westerly wind stood those waves up just that little extra, it was perfect. Haven't been out since Bill because of school and work, but this was a great day!

Even if I was a cripple

 

Went out I picked out my wife from the hospital and had someone at home to watch her for a bit.


Loaded of my landrover and headed to cape may . I checked it at a few spots but Head Quarters looked the best. Suited up around 2pm into some waist to chest clean surf . Its was closing out by the rocks but is you sat about 2 yards away they were pealing a nice long line. As the day went on it got a bit bigger about head high as the tide came in.

I got off so nice noserides and got covered up on a nice head high wave . I was scrunched down a bit but I popped out the other side .

There wasnt alot of people out either for the most part . Just 4 of us then towards the evening like 15 people just came out of no where.

I got a nice over head wave towards the end of the even . It came out of no where and just jacked up as the wind picked up. I droped in did and bottome turn and headed the lip of the wave and I walked to the nose . Man that wave was my best one of the day . It maintained speed and peal real long and clean . It felt like I rode it for a the length of 2 football feild the paddle back was so long

The veiw of the beach was nice too. a bunch of chics were chilling at the beging of the rocks and 2 of them venture out by them selves sitting on the rock and started making out and grabing each other asses

definatly a awsome end to a crazy weekend

 

5th st had this gnarly rip that looked like a mini version of one of those Oz mysto waves that sucks up and folds over on itself and doesn't peel or break cleanly just dumps hard into 3 ft of water. Only a few heads bobbing in the lower streets in OC. Rode for an hour then had to work!

 

I passed. Checked in town in the morning looked ok, nothing great. Figured I would check AI later in the day. Got there and it was PACKED!! Wind was west just as I got there and turned onshore light pretty quickly. Still some decent looking waves coming in but the crowd was crazy. Saw this fat guy carrying a tiny fish back to his car, a guy about 6'6" carrying a shortboard meant for a 120lb teenager. Bunch of guys on old yellowed boards that haven't seen the light of day in years. Kayakers dropping in on some big waves and some retarded surfer drop ins on poor guys up and ridding, racing the lip, and down comes someone as if they weren't even there, eats it and drags the poor soul he just dogged down with him. Didn't see one wave riden in over an hour that looked worth the effort. Conditions went down hill pretty quickly once the wind turned. Glad you guys got some and had fun, something about today just didn't look right, weird outside sandbar, crowds, and of course the change in the wind. As I walked away a friend who was about to paddle out asked what I was gonna do and I said go home and weed the garden, he gave me the funniest look ever, I looked at him and said I know I'm gonna regret it.

 

Kooked it up in front of my house all day. ate a dank crabcake for dinner at davey jones now im watching football.

 

caught one of my biggest lefts ever today.. looked up it was breaking higher than i could reach.. wish i was getting barrelled but really just the biggest close out ever and got rocked.. slammed down so hard, underwater for so long, and board hit me in the ear and cut it open.. but it was awesome great day.. took more slams than good rides but still so much fun

 

same here man, minus the ear slice. there were some heavy ones out there. i thought i buckled my board a few times on some closeouts

 

Something hard in the water gouged a chunk out of my board when I ate it which i did more than once, cut my finger deep and tweaked my trick knee, then tore a seam in my suit at the truck. Hard paddle out for mostly closeouts and got caught inside for what seemed like forever. As a guy I respect said "Whats the alternative, not surf? I'm not down with that." Better than mowin the lawn or rakin leaves.

 

I went to assateague...it was overhead with lots of close-outs, cold water long paddles... It was my first day with all the rubber so it was mainly a frustrating session (got a few but eat sand a lot more)
fun anyways...

 

crazy drops all day

 

stayed patient and waited for the afternoon incoming tide. Perfect barrels for 2-3 hours. No complaints.

 

I had the greatest time ever yesterday. 48th was firing all day practically, there was a West OZ looking sandbar that had some crazy barrels which led into an easier barreling left. Vince was killing it, making air drops left and right. Needless to say it was one of the best solid swells weve had in a while.

My epoxy santa cruz was dinged too! Theres a big gash in the bottom. I think it hit some dune fence or maybe it was from my knee after getting maytaged a few times.

but who cares it was so much fun!

 

Same here, surfed it from 2:30 to 5:00 Really nice lefts with a right sneaking in once in a while.

 

Where is the closest beach from UD???

 

good surf

im sorry...I will not live down that one wave...but I caught another 782 waves! my arm pits are rubbed raw and bleeding from 7 hours of paddling into bombs.

 

Rhode island point breaks, coves, and rock bottom beach breaks. It was so much fun despite the disturbing number of kayakers at one western spot. Will post pictures later.

 

Naval Jetty is where I was out, Jersey has some about equidistant beaches from UD but you won't find me there ever haha.

 

haha.... OBLove, you know I had to give you a little crap for pulling back on that one wave... Sorry about that That was a ridiculous barrel, and prob wise not to go, but everyone cleared out to let you take it!

Its all good, such a good day

 

sunday- joined 10+ early birds at dawn for 3 hours.solid head high sets with bigger ones coming thru' once in a while. Got a few before it got way too crowded-3 guys to a wave and so on.....ended up going two piers south defitinely less crowded and more spread out. finally saw some rights coming in and got a bomb that changed my perspective on my own surfing-turns out i can do it!! it felt so good to stomp my feet at the bottom turn and pump(for my life) came out the back laughing at everything soooo high. At hour 5 my shoulders locked up so i headed in on a nice left that decided to close out on me when i wasnt looking but thats ok, i was still laughing.


Monday- woke up at 8 with a headache from the beer drinking, checked it down the street,and went out to chest to head high waves which quickly got rid of my headache. or maybe it was the sun, or the beautiful weather, or the fact i was solo choosing waves. ate an awesome breakfast thinking about taking the longboard out for the afternoon.

I hope everyone had so much fun this weekend of grand waves. stay positive and healthy for wind,tides,and swells will come together again soon for us to enjoy.

PS-post pics if you got em'!