who here has been surfing this week?

I got out for a quick session this morning before work on the Flashback Fish. I almost didn't go, my knee is stiff and swollen so physically didn't feel like it but when I saw the waves as I walked up I couldn't say no. It was clean, offshore wind, chest high with sets pushing head high and great form. I paddled out and made it out with dry hair.

I had just smoked so I sat there and watched it for a minute to get my bearings and after a long lull a good sized set came my way, I spun and went, dropped in with ease, it was buttery as could be, I went backside (right) and made my bottom turn and came back up and hit the lip and back down for another bottom turn and connected with another top turn to cutback the other direction and hit the lip and cut back the other direction again and back down the line for another backside off the lip and then back down the face and finished the wave with a kickout and paddled back out, so stoked.

The next wave didn't come for a while but when it did, it was much like the 1st one. Long lulls at times, but patience paid off by sitting outside and getting the sets. I wish I had longer to stay out this morning, but gotta work.

 

Had a 1 hour session in waist high peelers this morning, startin at 5:15--street lights still on but not quite dark, really. Had several great long rides, front and back side, then decided to pull the plug when morons started to arrive.
One guys asked , "How are the waves?"....I answered with the middle finger. He got the message and walked backwards away from me. He was a Masshole--we don't like them. Is that racist also?? Naw......

 

So offensive! I'm so appalled! HAHA

 

I caught the afternoon outgoing south of the washout. Fun sesh and ran into some friends. I didn't see anything in the chest but plenty in the waist stomach range. Choppy and windy but really no current to speak of. The chop had nice faces and it lined up well enough to put some sections together. I was on the LB and got some nose time and some fun turns. Keeping an eye on it as it moves up the coast and the winds turn offshore.

 

lol oh barry if only you actually did these things you wouldn't have any pairs of dentures left

 

I would take some of that torture right now. LOL

 

Surf's been super hit-n-miss lately with poor wind conditions, but that all changes with shoulder high offshore patterns on tap for the next few days.

Keeping my fingers crossed

 

Ha! Amazingly I got in 2 times yesterday. The afternoon was a bit bumpy but not too bad. Once in a while a chest hi set rolled thru. Fun long high tide rides on the longboard. The morning was much cleaner and I was just as fun though the rights where closing out quick.

Was nice to be out in the afternoon with just board shorts on... the water was nice and warm. Couple of fun nose rides ... then all the lifeguards paddled out on their foamies lol

 

Very nice DP with very glassy little pits as the tide dropped out. Back to the grind.

 

Just looked at the cams. All the summer tourons are enough to make me puke!!

 

Surfed TPTSNBN this morn. Low @ approx 0915.

The usual: out the door 0430, 155 miles, arr 0715, checked State, North & OSV, paddled out @ TPTSNBN around 0820 or so. Nice warm water, a few other people out, mostly kids, only a couple of SUPs with local friendlies on boart their twaaat yachts..

Offshore (W) wind under 10 knots or so, vry clean lines, small, maybe knee high, hey, I drive 155 miles & that's better than flat is how I look at it. Surfed my big Ruddy for a couple hrs, Trace says 30 caught, eh, maybe 25, lotta fun regardless & always great to be in the ocean.

3.5 hrs haul back to concrete land due to Maryland asshat drivers apparently enjoying playing bumper cars on 50 westbound.

 

Hardcore dedication right there, right on Yankee!
I could have surfed semi clean knee high waves this morning but I chose, no.
Sometimes beach living makes you complacent. (slack on shacks)

Hopefully we can all get serious surf soon!
#beachday

 

I drove up to a secret spot but it was too deep so I drove back to a spot I happened to glimpse at on the way up the coast. It was breaking thigh to waist high,and only a few guys out. As the tide pushed in, the waves got a bit more rideable, more top to bottom, and I switched out the LB for the 6'8" magic pill. It went like a skateboard in the weak peaks.

A surfcamp was out the whole time, it was soooo coool to see the stoke, and the instructors kept them out of harms way. They also had a ginormous inflatable thing with a floating dock that held about 20 screaming groms. All jumping on and off in the shore break.

I saw a buddy's kid out there, a young shreddah, he was mostly floating cause he brought the wrong boart. He has like 10 Firewires, but took out some fiberglass potato chip. He will learn, watching the old dudes getting all the little nugs, to bring a fat board with him next time.

 

Dang yank! That is hardcore. Anytime you can make it to the ocean it's positive. Way to mitigate the concrete jungle with some Drive (literally and figuratively).

 

I went back out after work. It wasn't nearly as good as this morning but still caught some fun waist - chest rides. Tide was all over it, made it wonky and funky. Not a big deal though, the waves I got this morning were really good so I'm happy.

 

Had a nice few hours on the longbort this evening and surfed until after dark. The water cooled down by quite a bit since I was last in it the weekend before this past one. Didn't realize it was only 70, it must have been 76 about 9 or 10 days ago.

Happy to be back home.

 

I hadn't surfed anything but short period wind choppe since my last time at the secret inlet a month and a half ago. Knowing that the forecasts were dispensing fake news when they stated this swell would make it to my neck of the woods, I decided to hit the secret fishing pier in North PBC today. I found about forty of my best buddies that I had never met before already surfing when I finally arrived late in the morning. I joined the hordes as it was the only spot really working at the time and I didn't want to waste any more time driving around.

Caught plenty of fun ones despite the crowd. Later on I slid up the beach a little ways north after I saw some older dude with a big smile just tearing it up. Got my best waves there. One chest high left was especially good. I was flying down the line sawing up and down the face and bailed out just before I got dumped on the sand. Two little girls playing in the wash had been watching my ride and exclaimed "That was awesome!" Thanks, yeah it was.

Waves were mostly waist to maybe chest. Some long lulls. Wind was good but there was a short period SE swell in addition to the main NE swell and the backwash was crazy. Made for some interesting lumps and peaks. Why do the backwash waves almost always hit just as you're about to make your drop?

All in all a decent day of surf. The giant threatening thunderstorm stayed just to the south. Sure, there were lots of people out. That's what happens when a place hasn't seen a wave in some time. Some short period SE choppe on tap later this week. Take what I can get this time of year.

Life is goode.
I feel sorry for people that don't surf.

 

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You buoyz reinforce the stoke, DPSup's pinging me with good updates & Mitchell's pics are, seriously, something I really look forward to.

Best treade!

 

These little loggables keep coming... just enough to keep me in the water.

And the cow nose rays are back... which is cool.