who here has been surfing this week?

Hard to believe that one week into the month of August I have surfed in south Florida on five of the previous seven days. Last Tuesday caught some actual swell up in Juno. The next day some of that swell trickled down here though it was small but clean.

Wind choppe kicked in later in the week and I spent 5-6 hours each day this weekend surfing with a couple of friends. Knee to waist high. Lots of fun but man the sun is brutal this time of year. I forgot to reapply sunscreen on Saturday and now my nose is peeling.

Monday the choppe was still around so I met my buddy in the evening. Waves were actually somewhat organized, lined up and coming in sets. After a while an older dude paddles out on a brand new Wavestorm. We could tell it was his first time out because of his non-alternating stroke paddle tekneek. He didn't even know aboot surf wax. We shared some of our accumulated surf wisdome with him while he flailed a bit. I even gave him a bar of wax at the end.

The choppe seems to be persisting so I may make it out later for a fourth day in a row. That would be suite. This first week of August has been almost as goode for us as the past winter was. Well, not quite but I'll take it.

I feel sorry for people that don't surf.

 

Snuck out this morning at sun up before work. First time out in over a week. Bout thigh high. No one there but me. It was a bit damp and a bit chilly for this time of year. Water still warm though. Waves had no punch but felt good to get wet. Good stress reliever. Thought I saw a fox on the dune. Coulda been Wolftucks.

I feel sorry for people that don't surf.

 

"Who here as been surfing this week?" Apparently EVERYONE!

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Not to bemoan having surf to much...but it was weak this morning and tide seemed to fill in quickly...got a few fun ones on the RNF. Always funny though...1st pic is when I got out of the water...2nd is same spot as I watched it on a cam a few hours later at work...typical lol. Regardless...agree with Chavez...

 

Just got back from a few day trip to see the fam on HHI. Didn't have high hopes but worked out well. We were staying a block away from a river mouth that gave some waist high range the 4 days we were there. Able to surf at sunrise, play with my boys and nephew on the boards, then some more waves from me in the late afternoon. Being here on the Gulf, I forget how nice it is to have two tides, double the chance to surf. And I'll take 4 days of surf, even mushy then the lake we've had lately. And low and behold, there's a little bump on our forecast now

 

This guy washed up in close proximity to where I thought I saw that Brown mentioned above. He's about 7', 400lbs, and he's a Sand Tiger, not a Brown. Poor guy didn't make it, though.

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Yesterday afternoon, on the incoming tide, it got fun. Lot's of waist to stomach high peaks, some nice long rights. Lots of guys out, a couple on Wavestorms, but they knew how to surf. I took out my homemade rocket fish. Caught lots of waves, but the board has lots of rocker, so it didn't make some sections on the softer waves. I was debating on the Magic Pill, which has a flatter entry rocker, but anyway, it was lots of fun.

It was very crowded, but there was so many waves everyone got stoked. I'm sore from duckdiving so much choppe. Life is goode.

 

It has been a fun summer for surf down here in FL so far.

 

I just surfed for about 7 hours today, with a few breaks in between. It's hard to believe I was out there that long, it flew right by.

The conditions were pretty solid. About waist/chest high. Only complaint was there were like 50-ish people out. There's usually 10-15 people out just on flat days this time of year. I was considering jumping out and taking a drive a few towns up or down the coast, but it started to clear out and I got too lazy to wanna get out and bicycle home, then drive somewhere else.

 

^ it was pretty fun tonight. I was a town or two north of you. Got lots of fun backside waves. Fudged a few more than I wanted, but I didn't care that much. Was surfing with two guys I see on the reg, hootin each other into the set waves. It was a blast. The sky was gorgeous tonight too; lots of orange, pink, red. Full-ish moon out, relatively clear water. Couldn't ask for much more on my first day back from the dirty myrtle, well I could, but I don't want to be that greedy.

More to come soon, hopefully.

 

Definitely a fun night! A little chilly though! I was warmer in the water than I was when I got out. Feels like I might need long sleeves if it were a degree cooler.

Glad you scored! Hoping for more tomorrow!

 

^^^Agreed...

Got a couplethree hours in at my local with a few other guys. Vibe was great, and I was feeling really loose and connected. (Does that even make sense? Aren't they opposites?) Anyway... the incoming push put a little more size on it, so there were... surprisingly... some solid chest high set waves. Glad I brought the shortboart... left the log in the truck. Lefts and rights... I guess all that small, consistent east swell put the sand in all the right places.

 

Same here, got about two hours total at two different spots in central Monmouth after work yesterday. Was solo at the first spot, but it was too small, too close to shore, and not lining up quite right so after about 20 min made the decision to bail to another location, which was a spectacular call. 15-20 others out but had one of those sessions where as soon as I paddled back out after each wave, another came right to me and I found myself right on the peak with no one else paddling for it. A little soft on the inside, after initial drop and a turn or two couldn't do much but just stand there and cruise straight ahead, but still... nonstop longboard rides from tip of jetty all the way to the beach. Solidly waist high to maybe a bit bigger on takeoff as the tide came in. Probably the funnest session I've had this summer. Not objectively the best waves, but tons of long rides with no wetsuite and a beautiful sunset. Stoked.

 

Makes perfect sense in this context, not sure you can have one without the other... loose = not trying to force anything = connected to the ocean.

Perfect summary of my session as well, and I can only think of a few times over the past year that I've felt that way. No wonder I was so stoked during/after. At no point was I looking for a specific wave, or thinking about where to sit, what to paddle for, what I wanted to do on a wave, second guessing mistakes on the previous one, or anything like that... mind completely blank, ride a wave to the beach, paddle back out, ride a wave to the beach, paddle back out, repeat I-have-no-idea-how-many times.

 

cleaned up yesterday evening after a storm rolling thru. we've had a lotta those in the past two weeks, typical summer showers. chest hi slo rollers, made good on the LBs. plenty of surfers out, but went to a lil more low key spot on Folly. small drift, a bit disorganized on incoming swell pattern but agreed btwn the 3 of us bouyz out there that it was a great session. i was doing a lot of impromptu stuff on the board, got a sand burn on the shoulder with the rando wipeouts. fun stuff, should be another session before the week's over

 

Small but glassy session this morning. Light offshore wind, a bit of a wait for a wave but some nicely formed thigh - waist sliders rolled through every now and then. Nothing special but I can't think of a better way to start the day. I rode the LB but could have ridden the fish. I hit a spot I use to frequent till it got really crowded due to a new Surfline cam being put there. This morning I saw like 20 or so kids all crowding one peak, I just walked down about 100 yards and had one all to myself. Kids these days...

 

small glassy rights around 5 yesterday at mercers

 

fun size yesterevening. despite das crowd and da caveman way out. beets the jim.

 

Fun little swell in RI yesterday, but man alive the crowd, man. I really, really am hating on SUPs. Don't get me wrong, I have a SUP, I've ridden a SUP, but not in summer at Second Beach. And even then, I don't mind that they're catching the waves WAY outside and hogging. Just please, pick a peak and stick with it, ok? It's the not-stop up and down the beach that drives me nuts. I'm trying to stay out of your way, and just find a peak to myself, can you just go away?

So, got enough waves, despite said douche canoes, but today I didn't even try. 2-3' and crowds like yesterday, AND it's a nice day out? F-that...I'll read a book and drink a beer instead. I can wait two more weeks till you all go home when surf season is over.

 

I just can't take the crowds anymore.

I remember last year, after Labor Day it was like a light switch, with no parking restrictions, no lifeguards, and 1/3 of the surfers if not less. At this point, I'll just wait it out.