Yeah it did!! Took a couple hours off this morning and came into work late and really cannot possibly overstate how good a decision that was. Can't remember when I last surfed waves this good in just boardshorts. (Hermine was bigger but the winds were a mess during the peak of it, and I recall the cleanup still being kinda gnarly or at least quite a bit beyond my ability level. And trying to paddle out on a longboard didn't help.) Also can't remember when I last surfed waves this good with so many other people. Probably a correlation there. Also looking forward to the evening session, hopefully the swell holds and the winds stay light and while I'm sure it will still be a zoo I'm expecting a lot less competition right on the peak for the set waves.
Took off Tuesday/Wednesday for surf....Tuesday am - chest, Tuesday pm - head high with OH sets, Wednesday am - shoulder with a big set looming here and there. Nice to surf some power, Tuesday evening 2 hours before dark seemed to be the best of the swell and everyone was stoked...Big and very long rides, loved the evening session, wind was pretty much cooperative the entire time for the most part...IAM BEAT, 9 hours of surfing in 1 1/2 days but gonna try this evening if my back can survive, sucks getting old.
picture from from late morning in between sessions. I expected more size this morning, but also thought the wind might not cooperate. I'll take shoulder high and clean over bigger and wind-textured. Wind was light offshore from about 8-12 today. I got a whole bunch of long rippable rights and some lefts thrown in for good measure. From everything i heard, last night was a whole lot bigger than this size.
Some really good ones this morning - everything came together perfect early, tide wind and swell. Nice long rides, and actually not too many guys out... but it was early... easy paddle out, long rides, good size and some good friends... and no suite! Can't get much better!
Holy cow. Couldn't take off today. Well i could of, but it would of been a real jerk move on my part due to a particular work situation. Whatever. Ill still surf and if i show up a bit late, oh well. Showed up to the beach early. Honestly wasn't impressed with what i saw. I mean it was big for sure. But allot of closeouts. Basically a big steep drop then straighten out or get crushed. Were i few gems but very rare. I decided to pass and get to work early, get out early, and try for a afternoon sesh. At the time winds were looking onshore for later, so it was a risky call. While at work i got texts from my friend who paddled out when i left. Sounded like he had fun, but also sounded exactly like i was thinking. Big drop and no where to go. That just doesn't do it for me. It confirmed i made a good choice skipping the AM. As the work day started winding down i saw winds were offshore but buoy was dropping and quick. Long story short, i scored. It wasn't as big add the AM, but still shoulder high about, really clean long lines. Smooth drops then walled up real steep. Not sectiony, but little crumbles every so often. I'm not good at floaters. I was wishing i was today. But anyway, these waves were just begging for you to unload on the lip. Wasn't to crowded, but i was on a peak with allot of REALLY good surfers. Jaw dropping good. And they weren't the typical dbags. Vibe out there was so cool. I was actually able to paddle over maybe 50 yards. The peak was better, but i was all alone to grab the ones that swung a bit wide when they came. It was awesome. Just so damn good. Opting for the afternoon sesh NEVER works out for me, especially when onshore winds are forecasted. The moon's aligned. Ill sacrifice a bit of size for absolutely perfect vs closeouts all day everyday. I'm amped.
Waist high this morning--bigger swells never made the turn around the Cape Cod. Still had a nice glassy session on a mid-size board. Got out when dark, the street lights were still on, so I was out by myself for first 30 minutes. Nice waves, water a bit chilled--glad I wore boots.
What a day yesterday. Managed to get 4+ hours in the water despite working the majority of a full work day. All factors considered one of the better surfing days I've ever had... gotten better single waves and rides than any I got yesterday, but I don't know if I've ever gotten that much water time during a swell that big wearing just boardshorts five minutes from my house, much of it with good friends who I've barely surfed with in recent years (yeah that's a lot of qualifying variables, but they're all relevant). Surfed 530 till dark in central Monmouth, quite a bit smaller than the morning and some surface texture with light onshore winds, but still the occasional chest to head set wave coming through and pretty much every wave still lining up for a couple hundred yards all the way to the beach. Crowd was much lighter on the peak than the morning too (though way more kooks hanging out inside). Pretty much nonstop long rides for 2.5-3 hours. I can barely lift my arms today.
Choppy crap today... but yesterday... yesterday... one for the memory books. Bigger, faster and hollower in the morning... cleaner and more ripable in the afternoon and into the evening when the tide dropped. Best of both worlds in a single day. By the time I called it quits and finally got out of the water for the day, my LEGS were fatigued. Usually it's just my arms and shoulders and back. So many waves...
Yesterday morning was sooo goood. Surfed 4 hrs in the am. Light WNW winds. Long head high peaking rights. Last night kinda sucked in a two hour session. The south wind killed the faces but still an occasional 4-5 foot wave. I'm a happy boy! trying to post pic but can't get it to go through and can't get involved right now... gotta work.
Yesterday was crazy. Not just the waves but what I saw in the water and what happened out of the water. First, I surfed more yesterday than I have in the previous month combined. Early morning on the outgoing tide. Incoming right after low, and mid to late incoming. Every session had decent size and decent winds. The mid tide incoming session was best. Long lefts, about chest high, light crowd. Around low tide had the most size but lots of closeouts. My spot rarely barrels but I got some shade that I didn't make it out of though. Now, around noon the dolphins showed up. They were riding waves all around us. Within inches of me a couple times. Then it got weird. Two of them were swimming together and low and behold they started MATING right in the line up!! I saw the male's ding dong. It was as long as my forearm. He smacked his tail on the surface in a gesture that said for us to not get too close. At least 4 other guys saw it. That's a story to tell the grand kids....
Then, around 3 the size dropped, the winds went south and the high tide mushed it up. Went and got pizza and then had to drive to PA to do some work. Got to PA and realized I left my phone in the pizza place. They found it and held onto it for me. So instead of sleeping in my house in PA and I had to drive back to Sea Isle and get my phone. Decided to stop in the OD (Ocean Drive bar) for a drink. One drink turned into many as I normally avoid the town bars and haven't been in one in over 4 years in the summer. But the tourists were very entertaining. Got hit on by some 40 year old divorcee with big boobs. That got me all worked up so I headed to my residence in Seaville, woke up my wife, and gave her a shellacking. What a day.
You have grandkids??? You mean, someone actually consented to breed with you??? Was it an asian beauty??? just saying.......lol