pressure ding fixes?

Wasn't it 23 ft in Belmar?? Isn't it ALWAYS 23 ft in Belmar??

We had 8-9 here in NH....8-9 inches, that is.....

 

The outer banks certainly had some size at the peak of the swell.

 

In my opinion, that is nowhere near 8-9ft.

Nice shot though. Wish we still had some of those to play around with.

 

Is that Bret on that right

 

In a year you wont be worrying about that ding there will be bunch more just like it all ova da bottom of it and maybe some delam under yur backfoot

 

Whaaaaat? I'm not saying it is or isn't 8-9ft. But not even close? Come on man. It's debatable. A debate i won't have but debatable

 

I'd call that wave "overhead" and leave it at that...

As for the ding... I wouldn't bother. Hell... I've been riding a board that's half melted for two years... a big area under the nose of an EPS fish that's sunken in, except for the stringer, that sits proud. Tip: Don't do dark colors over EPS.

But... The board still rips.

But... as Mr. Belmar said... If you feel like you just can't live with it, fill it. Don't cut it open. The only thing different that I'd do from what B'mar said, is I'd lay in multiple layers of cloth, then hotcoat. I've seen thick layers of just resin crack. I've also seen them pop... which is caused by the board flexing. Tape off, sand, lay in cloth, fair when hardened, hotcoat, sand, polish.

 

It is close as a face size, but certainly NOT a swell size. Each debater needs to clarify or be specific on the denominators or scale.

 

Now that's perspective!

 

3 foot Hawaii scale, solid 6-8 foot Florida scale. No matter what, it's a damn nice wave.

 

Yes, not even close. I get it.....there are way too many different types of waves in the world and everything is judged differently. 8-10ft Steamer Lane is way more inviting and mellow than 8-10ft Puerto Escondido. And 8-10ft Chopes is sketchy as fvck. At the same heights, each wave looks bigger or smaller beacause there are different variables involved (hollowness, thickness, water color/clarity, etc....)

With that being said, if you have been surfing long enough and have been enough places around the world and have friends with knowledge that have surfed many more places around the world, then you would agree, that IS NOT close to 8-9ft. Im sure the general consesus among the (experienced) surfing population would agree.

Winter storm Stella, now I would call that 8-10ft east coast style for sure!

Sorry for hijacking the thread....

Now to get back to the main topic: leave the pressure ding, stop complaining

 

I'm no big wave charger but that looks pretty big to me. If that guy were to stand at the trough I'm sure that wave would be close to twice his his size. I'd give that a solid 8 feet, my scale. Surfers love to underestimate, just gotta be so tough and macho. It's a big wave and definitely overhead YEW.

I reiterate that I am no big wave charger, but I anticipate changing that in years to come. Here was a fun one though...not gert.

https://kek.gg/i/7xwQNG.jpg

 

You should have left well enough alone with the picture I posted of Brett at Motels. I was trying to help you out.
I've surfed Frisco a lot and can tell by your pictures that its not very big. Below is a picture of what Frisco is like when its solid tropical swell.



For scale here is a shot from the Black Friday swell that is pulled back.

 

That's all that matters dude.

 

The eternal argument over wave size continues..... To me wave "size" has so many variables it just not worth it to try and compare with people I have never surfed with.

Matt - Glad you scored. Leave the ding. Any repair is going to compromise the board whether you cut the crushed foam out or just put some cloth over it. I have a love-hate relationship with the a first ding. It sucks but now the board is broken in. Enjoy it.

 

One take on this question

http://www.surfline.com/surf-science/wave-heights---forecaster-blog_22495/

 

Mr. Strom... thank you for the above. To me, "overhead" is a wave face taller than me. Once it's overhead, I don't care how big it is in feet. Overhead is overhead until it's "double overhead." I know at my local beach, if the swell is 5' at more than 10sec, it will likely produce overhead sets. I think that's about what Gert produced... did anybody look at the buoys that day? What did it say?