who here has been surfing this week?

I only saw one guy taking quality pics. Kinda strange, this not secret spot usually has a ton of coverage on day like yesterday. Ecspecially when it was the only break on the Island really working. I think the fact that it wasnt a hurricane swell and no hype is why there werent many photogs out. Fine with me!

 

Gotcha. I haven't seen waves of that size and length in some time, would be nice to see some.

 

funny... I was just thinking of that spot this morning: "man I havnt surfed there in years, but on this swell that's probably the best spot today"

 

Web cams!

 

True, I guess I could always check them lol

 

Lots of water moving, lots of paddling to stay in place, but a few bombs coming through and very, very long lines.

 

Shoulder to head highs here early this morning, offshore light winds, perfect for my Byrne!! Surfed 2 hours, at my favorite spot, all by my lonesome.
Finally, some decent sized waves.

 

Fun waves at Nantasket. Wore the wrong suite, got hot.

 

Not exactly the voice of experience here....
So you wore your Disco suit and disco shoes?? Dancing....??
lol
At least you got out, man....

 

Sounds like some of you guys have been getting it good too, glad to hear it.

Got out today in SoMoCo for an hour and a half. It was gorgeous. Sunny, warm water, chest to head high, and more lefts. Rode the shortround againe'. Found a sandbar that was throwing a pretty hollow tube with the receding tide. Made it out of three, one of which I was pretty far back behind the curtain. We really have been blessed up here for the past several weeks.

Here's a shot of me yesterday morning on a gnarly one. I'll try to post some more later.

 

Beautiful wave dude! Good work!

 

Wow Kanman--- nice shot

 

Thanks, Betty and DP. I'm lucky to be friends with a few photogs. Definitely has its benefits.

 

Yes!! Nice shots!!!!

 

i'm actually stoked for ya Barry

 

YEEEWWW, nice shot Kanman!

 

OBX secret slab my buddy took a photo of the other day.

 

SO FUN this morning. Drove to a secret location early in the morning cus my friend and I knew our usual spot wasn't gonna be working. Made it there at 6:30 and it was insane!! Solid head high, easily makeable barrels out the wazoo with the occasional bigger set wave. Mostly suuuuuuuuuper long lefts but I found a right peak and got some frontside shade . Had the place to ourselves until about 10am when 5 guys showed up. Still plenty of waves to go around. Definitely one of my favorite sessions all year

Last session in Jersey until the winter.. now i'm off to Rhode Island to surf my head off!!!!

 

wednesday afternoon found some shoulder - head high (on sets) that were fun if you were in the right spot and dropped into the right wave....fast wally lefts. warm water, cool afternoon.

This morning surfed 9-12, then 2-3 p.m. second session. sandbars are so different than they were even a week ago from Tropical 10 or whatever they ended up calling it. Actually got some decent barrels (for chest high Delmarva). Really nice fall-like day....blue sky, clouds sliding by, walked way up the beach to kind of a cool kink in the coast that seems to favor NE swells/lefts. just 5 or so of us on a little section of peaks.

 

Yesterday was pretty much the best session I've ever had at Second Beach. I thought it would be mobbed, but the crowd was actually very manageable. I brought the fish, and my Byrne 6'6 that I just don't ride very often here. But man, it absolutely loves waves with a bit of size and power, so I took it out and it was just magic.

I caught one wave, this right...you know that feeling where you absolutely stick the takeoff on a wall, and your feet land in exactly the right spot on the board....back foot perfectly planted on the stomp pad...and you're looking down the line and the wave is just lining up perfectly? Like you have time to actually savor what you're going to do to that lip? I had one of those and when I got done riding it to the beach I'm thinking, "man, it doesn't get any better than that."

Then I caught like 10 more.

Unbelievable day. The exact opposite of my Gert experience. So many good waves and good rides, and it felt so good to take out my "good" board for conditions it's built for.