Wave Period

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by notaseal, Sep 6, 2017.

  1. Notaseal

    Notaseal Well-Known Member

    47
    Apr 18, 2015
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    Last edited: Mar 19, 2022
  2. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Period is period...period. But I think you are making a good point on the opposing currents having an effect on period.
     

  3. waveft6

    waveft6 Active Member

    27
    May 20, 2014
    Wave current should have little to no impact on swell. The gulf stream moves at most 1.5 mph and waves of this size move much, much faster, a swell with hurricane period like Irma in the next few days of 16 secs would be traveling around 54mph in deep water. The continental shelf will play a far greater role than anything the EC will see current wise.
     
  4. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    The longer distance swell will be more powerfull, feel bottom sooner, and be better groomed. maybe slower on the peak, faster as it hits the shallows. The closer swell will be more wonky, maybe faster on the peak, slower to feel bottom, maybe slower in the shore break.
     
  5. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    16 second period from the east or the west is the same. If it comes from 2000 miles or 1200 miles if it's 16 seconds it's 16 seconds. The currents play a small part in diminishing period true. And, continental shelf, canyons etc have an affect but not sure that is what op is asking
     
  6. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Actually just re-read op. 200 mile and 2000 mile swells would be nearly impossible to have similar swell dynamic so SIS is on the right track
     
  7. Rocketjok

    Rocketjok Well-Known Member

    64
    Jul 30, 2015
    For deep water, the relationship between speed and wavelength is given by the formula:
    l = g x t x t / (2 x pi)
    l = t x c for all kinds of waves, substitute in above equation: t x c = g x t x t / (2 x pi)
    c = g x t / (2 x pi) or t = c x 2 x pi / g or t = c x 0.641 (s)
    where t= wave period (sec), f= wave frequency, l= wave length (m) and pi=3.1415...
    to calculate c and l from wave period t (in sec): c = t x 1.56 m/s= t x 5.62 km/hr = t x 3.0 knot
    l = 1.56 x t x t (metres)
    Thus waves with a period of 10 seconds, travel at 56 km/hr with a wave length of about 156m. A 60 knot (110 km/hr) gale can produce in 24 hours waves with periods of 17 seconds and wave lengths of 450m. Such waves travel close to the wind's speed (97 km/hr). A tsunami travelling at 200 m/s has a wave period of 128 s, and a wave length of 25,600 m.

    The website below has tons of information about open ocean waves and how they move.....

    http://www.seafriends.org.nz/oceano/waves.htm
     
  8. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Guest


    Thanks for that site, rocket--it is a good one and did in fact answer several questions I have had regarding wave speeds. Leave it to the kiwis to answer it correctly.
     
  9. frost

    frost Well-Known Member

    Jul 31, 2014
    wait 54mph wave , ride that cowboy yowza
     
  10. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Guest

    No - that is 54 km/hour....not mph (about 40mph).
     
  11. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Deeper energy (longer period) waves do feel the bottom sooner, so they also refract more. So the shape, location, and orientation of shelves and canyons plays a big role in redirecting swell with periods greater than 10 seconds. Local conditions may vary.
     
  12. Southern Comfort

    Southern Comfort Well-Known Member

    149
    Mar 22, 2015
    Wave periods require tampons and maxi pads.