Took an extended lunch break. After I could not get in the lot at my 1st choice (temps in the high 70's so lots of beach goers - retirees/tourists), I headed north. Upon arrival, sizable clean waves were far outside, but busting through the shore pound was a bit of a challenge (I made a tactical error and paddled out in the wrong spot ), but once outside it was super glassy. Caught a couple glassy bombs that broke way outside.. as DP said, it "went quiet for a while", so there was some time between sets. I caught a real nice one, was able to cut back into the pocket, had a clean wall for a bit and then road the foam all the way in, since I needed to get back to work. I was glad to get some even though it was a real short session.
Surfed with my son after dinner an hour before dark in trunks. Waist to chest, choppy. Only ones out. Love the off season.
It's always good to get a "surgical strike" in your busy day, glad to hear you scored, C-Dog. Feeling like James Bond after you get out, timing is everything dear chap. Work is for mere mortals. I got the goods for a bit yesterday, today I paid the piper. Peace and waves bro.
Indeed, it was a "surgical strike." I trunked it to save time and so that it would limit my time in the water (a bit of a twisted accountability method). Only tactical error was failing to eat some sort of energy snack in route. Nevertheless, well worth the effort. Thanks and peace.
is this a true story or fake news? lol jk.am sure it took the weight of the storm effects off your mind for a while
Crappy session on Tuesday night. Just long walled up closeouts. I refused to sit on the right peaks nearby with 10+ guys each. In hindsight I should have just sucked it up and dealt with the crowds. Really yearning for airs right now. Saw soulrider bust a sick one last Thursday. Looks like this weekend we are gonna start getting a bump. Hopeful to get some practice in then.
lol It's real news! It definitely took my mind off of it. We were lucky to not have much damage, so I didn't have too much on my mind thankfully, just the boredom of sitting inside for days. My family is still without power though, but they have a generator so it's not all bad.
Same... And I, too, passed on the crowded peaks that were actually (sorta) working. I just hope the Jose swell has more south in it...
Yesterday morning the swell faded a bit but was still waist high with the rare set up to chest high. Conditions were glassy with calm wind - light offshore breeze. It wasn't really breaking outside so I sat around the mid bar (if one exists) and went for a dozen or so rides. Mostly short rides, but a few opened up enough to do some carving on the LB before it closed out. Lots of shore pound. This morning had more size, power, and speed. I'd say it was more chest high than waist high. Calm wind so it was glassy again. Still a bit tricky being in the right spot since the outside sandbar is gone but every now and then a nice set would roll through and break far enough out to give me a decent ride before it walled up and closed out. I rode the LB again because in order to get in early enough on these you need some float. If I rode the fish, I would have had to sit inside and drop in on close out shore pound, which is cool and all, but not much of a ride, so I made the right call. It's been nice having the beach all to myself again. The next couple days looks like 5-8ft with a little N / NE wind on it. Hope it's clean enough to have some fun!
fun extended lunch break sesh today. warm day, glassy, and very warm water...upper 70s easy water. Jose swell is kind of hitting certain Delmarva spots more than others. and very tide dependent with the long period. Its was chest high+ and very a-framey where we surfed.
Whelp, I surfed for 5 straight days earlier this week, ranging from good to choppy and chunky. Then on either Monday or Tuesday I got some water in my ear that I didn't get all the way out and it got infected. Finally went to the doctor yesterday and it's definitely an ear infection, it definitely hurts, and he told me to stay out of the water until it gets better. So today I got some ear plugs and went out at Second Beach. Small, pretty crappy waves with a lot of fog, but I got one good left and one little snappy right on the fish. But, I wasn't sure how well the ear plug was working, so I only surfed a handful of waves and then bailed. I'm hoping the medicine kills this crap before Sunday!
Kind of surprised the water wasn't too impacted by storm overflow of sewage systems to surf in. Glad you scored waves (not ecoli)
Wow this has been the longest stretch of (kinda) ridable swell we have had in a long long time... really can't remember having hurricane swells like this (back to back)in a couple of years. BUT tons of closeouts... pretty much all closeouts... with these long period swells our beaches can't handle it. Now, I think, a majority of the sand bars are gonna get messed... Thursday morning was really fun.. didn't have the size as the days prior but still chest/head high on set and it was lining up good too. Tonight was also fun. A little choppy but the swell started to filll in again and some fun head high sets that lined up for some really fun rides... stoked!
This morning before work and during lunch. Have to squeeze it in when I can. I'm fortunate to work at Dam Neck - right on the beach. Water temp mid 70s, air about 80.