who here has been surfing this week?

Today I slept in and got laid because wind forecast wasn't good and didn't expect it to improve, then by time I realized the wind was cooperating the wind shifted and wasn't worth the effort. Here's what it was like early though. Some dude getting a good one...

 

Two words describe this mornin's go out: Close Outs

 

Surfed for 10hrs combined the last two days. Completely spent. Nothing too bad and nothing too great either.

First sesh was in S.Moco on Saturday. And what a beautiful day that was. Sun was shining, water was warm and there was swell. All rights, though, which is cool but I like a left every now and again. Chest to head high and maybe a little bigger on select sets. Got some really fun ones, but there were a handful of closeouts and I surfed for 6 hrs and felt like death afterwards.

Second sesh was in Cape May today. It was weird side shore wind, but there were some very long peeling lefts. It ranged from thigh to shoulder high. The peak was dominated by some unfriendly locales, but that's what you get when you go there. Soulrider and I paddle battled all day, but we each got some quality lephs. And the crowd thinned at one point. Really wish I had brought the Simmons with me, but I rode my short round and dream catcher instead.

If there's one thing I learned about the shortround today, it was that it HATES small waves. Kind of wish I had a performance groveler for that stuff. Next on my list. Oh well.

Looks like fun East swell coming up. Hopefully it isn't all closeouts... long period swell is a blessing and a curse.

 

Sweeet!


I hate the Bahamas even more. It was aboot a third that size down here today.

 

Another day in the blur of what feels like weeks-long swell. Nothing spectacular... just another day of nice sized drops and not much else. If I had to put a number on in, I'd say 2-3 good waves per hour. Everything else was a tease.

The only reason why I'm posting is to report that today I took out my rear Stretch quads and put in an AM2 as a trailer, and rode it as a thruster for the first time since December. Never tried this combo before, but figured WTF...

The AM2 has a lot of rake, so I thought it would still be drivey, but a little looser than the quad setup. It delivered in the looser aspect, but the loss in drive was pretty frustrating when trying to make sections. Today had a bit more south in the swell, so it was lining up a little better... but still really sectiony and I might have made a few more if I left it as a quad. The thruster felt like it was washing out on the bottom turns, and didn't want to take the high line as naturally as the quad. Translation: not enough drive off the bottom, and not enough high line speed when you needed it. Coming off the top, though... way smoother and more controlled.

 

If these storms keep up there may not be anymore Bahamas to worry about.

 

Due to busy schedule, I get a chance to it is only scheduled time and it's relieving.

 

^really...what...huh??????

 

Surfed for 8 hours this weekend around central and northern moco. Lots of fun rides, lots of eating it on closeouts, lots of getting caught inside and waves on the head, lots of everything. Especially paddling. So much paddling. Looks like sloppy onshore conditions for the next couple days... not sure schedule would allow much water time anyway but even that aside I can use the rest. Body kinda feels like it was in a car crash, but in the best kind of way. I think I've surfed 8 of the last ten days and most of the ones before that too. Really just seems like nonstop swell here going back to gert... maybe longer, I remember a couple super fun waist to chest high days in the week or so right before that swell too. I think it's like 5, maybe 6, overhead swells in the past month now? It does seem like 90% of the waves the past few weeks have been closeouts, but still had plenty of good ones too. So stoked... feel like I've been on a surf vacation but without spending any money or dealing with any travel logistics. Granted my house is a mess, my yard is overgrown, I barely have any clean clothes, my diet's been garbage, and I hardly remember what the gym looks like, but who cares as long as the waves keep coming??? (My daughter is healthy and well and I'm still married and employed, so I've not completely been mailing in life, just mostly...)

 

surfed all wknd. so much water, our beaches are getting eroded and the paddle out was brutal. i enjoyed the lo tide sessions, but i also cracked my HogMolly 7'2" fisch in the process (suncurable luckily). at my break, there was a massive sandbar that was created moreover by Irma. Only a couple times in the hi tide sessions was i able to get a ride all the way to shorebreak, and they were really suite. def a lotta closeouts, but there was enough speed to keep ur stoke up. Shoulder to head hi, a lotta bruises and scratches endured. still going off today, will try to muster an evening session. i'm def beat, looking promising for OBX this wknd tho n a short work week is just what i need

 

Good summary. It's been a blur. Best September in over a decade, at least.

 

Surfed Shelly island on Saturday.... one of the best days of surf I've ever experienced. Longest rides I've ever had. Literally felt like I was surfing in a different country. Truly an epic day... here's a picture my friend got from the lighthouse.

 

My friends been at BLOCk for several days...ughhh. I had to miss the trip. Yesterday.

 

the discontinued Kinetic Racing Parko and Occy fins are 10/10 for what you're looking for

 

Shelly Island, as in the new one in OBX?
How did you get the photo?
The lighthouse is over 2 miles away from Shelly Island?

 

Yea. It's been breaking like a point break for 2 weeks now... my friend has a really good camera haha. We'll see how long the little sandbar lasts....it was all of 6-8ft all day and firing until dark.

 

Did a solo strike mission up to LI this morning. Long clean, point break style lefts till about 4:00. Then the wind went to sh!te. Got a couple almondy barrels with alot of chandeliers. Most of the surfing was cutbacks, round houses and floaters. All and all it was worth the 2hr drive up but you can keep that 2.5hr commute home in bumper to bumper traffic with some of the most aggro freaks Ive ever shared pavement with! DANGIT!!!

 

If not the best.. a very close second... I can't remember the last time we had consistent surf- like where your too tired and start getting picky about the days /times you surf... lol had to be sometime in the mid 2000?? I think your right...
Times like this is when one of those surf journals would come in handy. Had a buddy years ago who would write on a calendar the different swells.. was a good idea. I'm going to ask if he still has them around

 

I saw this Facebook post going around, where there was supposedly 30 foot waves caused by Jose, in a picture in the background of some pier on OBX. Nags Head maybe? Anyway, it looked photoshopped. There's a lot of fake pictures and videos going around lately. I saw one that looked like it was taken out of a disaster movie, of downtown Miami under what appeared to be hundreds of feet of water. Clearly was fake. Same with that tornado video in Barbuda from some time ago, which someone claimed was recently and due to Irma.

 

Beautiful redemption session this morning from yesterday evening. Had clean 100 yd lefts, lotta taken backside on the LB. had some really great long lines right off the start in an uninhabitated waters for the first 15 min. I needed it badly from yesterdays mush show, actually made me forget most of that sunset session. Great start to the morning. That's the last of Jose down here. Capping it off with a UB40 show tonight, yewww!