who here has been surfing this week?

Toonces, hope your ear heals quick! Caught 1st street in Vb with only 5 or so other guys out today (im guessing everyone went south). Was solid chest high with the occasional shoulder/maybe head high set rolling through. Quite a few held open - was the first solid hurricane swell since gert that I have really enjoyed and wasnt a bunch of closeouts. Water is warm, waves were solid, kids are behaving, and beer is cold...life is good.

 

^ thanks Matt.

My fault. Had I just listened to the doctor in the first place, I'd be good...I'm sure I've been trying to teach this lesson to my kids for years now.

I've only been injured enough to stay out of the water a handful of times in my life, so I'm lucky. And I'm smart enough to know better than to push it. Stupid decision last week on my part.

This hurts, but I don't want to f up the Maria swell. Gonna take my lumps, learn my lesson, and heal this weekend.

I love that, this week with so much surf, is as quiet as this thread has been since I've been on Swellinfo. Like, during summer it was 2 pages a day, now it's two posts a day. I think this means that y'all are scoring so much surf you're too tired to bother with this silliness. That pleases me.

 

Man. I its been firing for like two weeks now. This week every damn day. Today i heard the morning was pretty good. I opted for the after work sesh. Bad call. Don't know if it was a lull in the swell or just a matter of the high tide and heavy offshore winds.... the size was still there but it wad just feathering and not breaking really. Shore break was sick though haha. Oh well. Back at it tomorrow. And Friday. And Saturday. And Sunday.

Such an awesome run of swell. Speechless

 

My local has lost it's bar, it's been there for 5 years. Maybe Maria will bring it back. There is a big ole sea buoy 100 yards off the beach to the north, totally surreal.

 

Duuuuude, it's the same up here, bars are gone! F me! I took a half day today to try and enjoy some surf and it was just frustrating. Time to start searching for new bars, I can't take it...

 

I took a couple days off to catch up on work, family,and let my ears chill. Been using white vinegar twice a day, it's finally not hurting. I read it will help gradually eat away the bony growth. Thinking aboot a early go out tomorrow if conditions are good. I hope you feel better T. And yes, too tired to post much.

 

The ENT doc told me (and so did Google) that a 50/50 mix of alcohol and vinegar drops post surf will help keep the ears dry. Won't do anything about the bone growth, but at least help keep infection at bay.

Frankly I've never been someone who worried about my ears and surfing. It seems, though, that decades of surfing does take its toll on our bodies. I'd like to surf until I die, so there is probably value in taking some precautions with long-term payoff...ear plugs/drops, yoga, etc.

 

The ENT doc told me (and so did Google) that a 50/50 mix of alcohol and vinegar drops post surf will help keep the ears dry. Won't do anything about the bone growth, but at least help keep infection at bay.

Frankly I've never been someone who worried about my ears and surfing. It seems, though, that decades of surfing does take its toll on our bodies. I'd like to surf until I die, so there is probably value in taking some precautions with long-term payoff...ear plugs/drops, yoga, etc.

 

I'm with you on that Bass. Been great down here in Joizy.

I was watching cams and it was nugging pretty hard this morning. I had figured with the incoming tide it would still be solid in the pm, but I was mistaken. It slowed down a lot. Stomach to shoulder hi in Atlantic Co., but the waves lacked consistency and weren't all that lined up. I did get some that let me pull a few hacks and got some pumpage. I'm stoked enough.

Just copped some qd2 rears for my shortround. Pumped to ride this thing as a quad finally. Been riding nothing, but thrusters and twins lately.

 

#States

 

You all seem to having fun lately, and scoring as well. Probably in more ways than one, I bet. LOL.

I would have loved to try and tame Jose this week, but I've worked approximately 125 hours in the last 10 days, with just one day off, which was used to make up this massive sleep deficit. I am enjoying reading the thread though, even though a bit envious! Sucks that you Florida guys lost some sandbars with the recent hurricanes though.

 

I was actually pretty stoked on the yesterday afternoon/evening session. Tide was high but lefts were coming through with some size. Nice shoulders for long rides. I was in Southern Ocean.

Just wanted to confirm that this has been the best run of swell (for me) I can remember probably since 2010. We're getting 2-3, and sometimes more legit days of solid surf a week since probably Old Dirty Dirk McGirt. For some of youse that live 5 minutes away this may be nothing new, but for someone that logs a 40 min. ride to the sea this has been the most days of swell I've ridden in a 6 week stretch in almost 10 years. 2010 and 2001 were close but then again its still September so 2017 could go down as a year for the books.

 

Jose south of us has kept us locked into NE winds so local breaks are washing machine quality. But north of us....

 

Had a short but quite fun session in central Monmouth last night. Definitely still plenty of size out there. The current sucked and it was fairly drifty and sectiony but plenty of waves coming through, surprisingly soft and smooth takeoffs, and long rides to be had. Still just in disbelief about how good it's been here lately. Can't really compare to other years... only started surfing toward the end of high school (2000) and spent more falls/winters than not living away from here since then for school/work/etc... but I don't think I've ever seen a run of swell like this here. Hoping it continues through the weekend and the wind stays manageable.

 

Chavez to boss man: I'm taking off on Friday.
Boss: wha? You just missed Wednesday morning!
Chavez: yeah I know.
Boss: is this for the surfing thing?
Chavez: yeah
Boss: I thought that was a Summer thing, you know, the Beach Boys?
Chavez: tomorrow's the last day of Summer officially.
Boss: I thought Summer ended Labor Day?
Chavez: soooo, can I have off tomorrow or what?
Boss: OK, but I need you on the one site every day next week.

Non surfers are a funny bunch ain't they? I've long stopped trying to explain to people about the seasonal changes and how the ocean doesn't close after Labor Day. It's REALLY good to be a surfer right now.

 

Yeah my buddy sent me pics of a particular section in LBI that looked like it was firing... definitely made the wrong call by going mo South. But, I still got some sick ones. Next couple of days lookin solid tho.

 

lol That's too funny. The Beach Boys! WTF?!

 

Yeah, he's like a 300 pound man beast from Northeast Philly. Eagles fan. Goes to Wildwood for a week every July and gets burned to a crisp and never sets foot in the ocean. Drinks a 12 pack of Bud Light every day. One of maybe 3 people I've met my entire life that I'm scared of.

 

Wow, he MUST be animal then!

 

Last several days I jealously watched Jose swell on the cam 50 miles north with only a trace making it down here. Wednesday it finally looked surfable so I met my buddy in the evening to try to get some. The park is still closed after Irma so we can't surf our regular spot and went to the pier instead. Expecting some maybe knee high waves and a rising tide, we were greeted with chest to head high half mile long liners. Six or eight guys that know each other out so it was far from crowded and everybody played nice.

The longer period swell tended to close out but the sand at this spot was still where it should be and it was possible to find a shoulder for long rides to the sand. Lefts were the natural way to go but I was able to get some rights that were even more fun. The swell was building as we were out and there were only short lulls between sets. This ended up making the paddle back out an endurance test especially since I like to ride my waves as far as possible through the reform and to the sand.

Two hours later we had a beautiful sunset and I was exhausted. It was almost dark and I wanted just one more. The biggest wave yet popped up in front of me and I wasn't far out enough to make it by or to catch it in a propre fashionne. Out of gas and knowing I had no chance to fight it I turned toward the beach, laid on my boart and just let it break on me. The wall of white water crashed on my back and smacked my chin into my boart temporarily disorienting me as it surrounded me. I thought I was just getting tumbled but then realized that I was being propelled to the shore so I got to my feet in time for the wave to wall up againe on the reform and I kicked out just before hitting the sand. Not the prettiest way to end my session but it was a fun ride and I was simply spent.

Looking at the cams now it appears we are back to almost flat with just small traces againe. Maybe later? We're supposed to get some Maria swell this weekend and our regular spot might be accessible. We'll see.

Life is suite.
I feel sorry for people that don't surf.