who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. BassMon2

    BassMon2 Well-Known Member

    Jan 27, 2015
    Love reading your write ups toonces. Next time I'm up north I'm giving you a shout and hopefully you show me some spots. Only been to RI a handful of times. But man i love it there. Such a beautiful and interesting coastline. Maybe diffrent for locals, but i feel like there's much exploring to be done. Iv only surfed 3 spots. Well known spots. I like trying to figure out the spots your surfing but i never can. Leads me to believe i gotta get back there and explore.
     
  2. eatswell

    eatswell Well-Known Member

    997
    Jul 14, 2009
    What a day! Hope everyone else got some, there was plenty to go around! Still able to trunk it, as it was a pretty warm, unseasonably warm day. Took a ride to Cape May and surfed there with my best friend and some of his buddies that live in the area. Surfed from just before 3:00 PM to right around 7:00 PM. Cape May doesn't always have surfable conditions, but when it does, it's on! Some spots right down the street, just a few blocks over were completely flat. And it wasn't even crowded either! I think most people were surfing the cove LOL. Totally oblivious to where we were today. Just a few of us and that was it.

    Head high early on, then dropped a bit by dusk. It was high tide when we got there, probably would have been even better at low tide, but this was good one for sure. I'd like to provide a write up like Toonces, but the surf beat the **** out of today and I'm low on energy! Still in trunks, maybe this was the last time for the year. Never know, I thought last week would be my last day in trunks until next June? Maybe next week, never know when I'm gonna get a day off....

    Hope everyone else has been scoring! Sounds like they have been, as it's been a good month. I've only gotten to surf 2 times in the last 2.5 weeks though.
     

  3. Toonces

    Toonces Well-Known Member

    356
    Apr 25, 2016
    There were still a few cats out n trunks today but I was pretty comfortable in e 3/2. Tuesday the full suit felt warm...maybe a bit of upwelling today.
     
  4. eatswell

    eatswell Well-Known Member

    997
    Jul 14, 2009
    Rhode Island? I'd DEFINITELY already be in my 3/2 if I were up there! When I was a young man of 40? Probably not. Now in my late (is 46 late 40's? sure don't seem like mid :() 40's, I'd be close to shivering!

    I probably would have had my 3/2 on today, if not for the warm air temperatures. Water was 69 in Cape May today. Air temp might have been 85 today. It's been a warm September. By how cool it seemed to be getting in late August, I never figured it to be such a warm September. There were nights in late August when I wanted to wear a hoodie and put on some pants. It feels like September has been warmer than the last half of August, especially at night.
     
  5. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    winds cooperated a little this afternoon, and Hurricane Maria is still throwing back some swell. Quick sesh after work. Water is still warm..was comfy trunking it.

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  6. eatswell

    eatswell Well-Known Member

    997
    Jul 14, 2009
    Nice! Looked a bit like what I had today! Nice stuff from Maria! It was exactly what I needed, with about 3-4 very stressful days coming up!
     
  7. mrcoop

    mrcoop Well-Known Member

    605
    Jun 22, 2010
    Nice!...missed it yesterday.
     
  8. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    I lied, shoulder is too stiff and a little swollen. Gonna take it easy today. It felt great until I went to sleep and woke up.
     
  9. DTK

    DTK Well-Known Member

    139
    Aug 14, 2007
    First day not surfing since last week...and last week we had 5/7 days of extremely surfable conditions. And the week prior to that...3/7 days.

    Just wanna thank mi hermanas muy bonita Irma and Maria y hermano muy loco Jose!

    All in all an absolutely funtastic September! Oh, and still trunking it here in No. FLA!
     
  10. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

    448
    Dec 11, 2008
    also - the longer you delay surgery, the more the scar tissue around the tendons will build up and impinge your movement, weaken the muscle and cause more and more intense pain, not to mention you will start to lose cartilage- to the point where you wont even be able to wipe your ass without intense pain - let alone surf.
     
  11. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Hey What's happening?

    I've been surfing. A Lot. It's all kind of a blur but I can only think of one day that I didn't surf this month and that was because I was traveling to get to a different place so I could surf. I've surfed from the west to east ends of my Island. I've surfed the beach breaks, the rocky coves, left and right points and most of the inlets in between. I surfed where Frank Mundus caught a monster and I've caught monsters where Brad Pitted got his **** thrown in. I surfed in front of cities as the sun rose, sirens blared ,and church bells rang. I've surfed islands as the sun set with only the sounds of the waves breaking and seagulls calling. I've surfed cliffs covered with mist as a fog horn echoed. I surfed my regular spots, my old haunts, sketchy once in a while places and places I've never been to before. It was almost always head high or bigger. The water always was warm and crystal clear. The sets were always spaced out making the paddle outs easy. I surfed with my regular crew, old friends, completely alone and with friendly strangers. The vibe was always good and it was never really crowded. My 6'0" single concave, squash tailed thruster was my trusty steed and together we went over ledges into wide open barrels, and stroked into slopey ramps that just kept going so long that when they ended, your legs were jelly from so many turns, and you were so far away from the take off you couldn't see the other surfers. September was a month to remember. It was like a dream.

    Who else has been surfing? Hard not to keep a positive attitude when it's been as good as it's been.
     
  12. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Yesterday was a memorable day for sure down my way. A couple of breaks around town were the best I've seen in a decade or more and it was good from dawn until dusk.
     
  13. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Good points, thanks!
     
  14. ChavezyChavez

    ChavezyChavez Well-Known Member

    Jun 20, 2011
    Got out this morning. the session can be described in one word: REFRESHING.
    The air all morning was crisp, cool, and refreshing.
    The sky was clear and the winds were slack: refreshing
    The paddle out was easy and refreshing.
    The waist high waves at just the right tide was refreshing.
    Catching waves after wave after wave on the fish was refreshing.
    Having it all to myself for the first 90 minutes was refreshing (more on this in a second...)
    The waves we've had on this run have had that high intensity vibe that we crave. It was gone today at least where I was.
     
  15. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    Thanks for sharing the stoke brother!
     
  16. ChavezyChavez

    ChavezyChavez Well-Known Member

    Jun 20, 2011
    Soooo, 90 minutes or so into this Zen-like go out, another surf pilgrim appears on the beach and make a bee line paddle out right towards me. There's no one else around and plenty of other peaks up and down the bar. In his defense, I was sitting at the best left and most walled-up section.
    Now, when this happens I don't get mad right off the bat, I don't stink eye or turn my back and act like the offender is not there. I always give this type a shot. After all, they may be able to smoke me out there so you never know.
    Well, this dude, old head like me, on a longbort, makes it over the last swell, and paddles right at me with a giant smile on his face. I'd never seen him before. He says, "How's it going man? Is this the perfect day or what?" I smiled back and told him it was pretty darn close to perfect, after all, I could be at work.
    We then exchanged waves for over an hour, he always giving me priority even though he was damn good on that log and had style to boot.
    As the tide filled in, it started to get too deep and the wait became longer and longer. So I bid my cohort goodbye and caught a crumbling left in. Sitting on the beach eating my PB and J, I pondered the day and figured that it was a perfect Coda to the run of swell we've experienced and how good it is to be able to surf, or better yet, to experience the ocean in all its variances.
     
  17. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Nice.
     
  18. NJsurfer30

    NJsurfer30 Well-Known Member

    200
    Dec 28, 2016
    This is beautiful. While the winds haven't been quite as favorable down here, the last six weeks still pretty much feels like a dream, and this sums up a lot of my thoughts looking back on it. Day after day after day of head high or bigger and some degree of rideable. I would never believe jersey could get consistent swell this good for this long if I hadn't just seen it with my own eyes. And with plenty of daylight and warm water no less. So stoked right now, even moreso after reading that.

    Haven't been out yet today, but already gotten the feeling that it's gonna be the encore on an epic performance. Will absolutely be paddling out after work regardless of conditions (though I'm pretty sure they will be fun), and again in the morning if there's anything left. After everything this run of swell has given me, there's no way I'm not gonna see it through to the end.
     
  19. waterbaby

    waterbaby Well-Known Member

    Oct 1, 2012
    that may all be true, what's the basis of your statement? did it happen to you or an acquaintance?

    Surgery, itself, can cause more scar tissue...and the more surgeries you have on the area, the more scar tissue builds up. Surgery can also initiate osteoarthritis and the formation of bone spurs and other painful joint problems...then, post-surgery, a crappy physical therapist can make things even worse. It's a gamble for anyone, but some people's body chemistry is more prone to complications than others.

    If I were having any joint issues that kept me from surfing, I'd probably take a chance on surgery...but it really should be avoided whenever possible.
     
  20. mrcoop

    mrcoop Well-Known Member

    605
    Jun 22, 2010
    This afternoon...went in town, a bit of chop, but fun...solid waist-chest. When was it last flat? Can't remember.