who here has been surfing this week?

Wind machine has been cranking so not worth the 15 minute drive.

 

Great pics CJ!!

 

Just got out. waist to chest high but with light onshores. Clean on the face but a bit lumpy. totally ridable, and 3 guys out where on a tuesday afternoon a month ago with sun and fun waves there woudl have been 53. LOVE FALL!

 

I used to check the cams with my boss at my last job and itll be a winter Wednesday 10am and we'll see like 40 people in the water and I always thought does anybody work anymore?lol its a Wednesday morning or a Thursday afternoon,kids should be in school,people at work,only the lucky few that are retired or on unemployment.

theres only one thing that stops crowds and that's swell.a fun 3ft day everybody and their cousin is in the water.6-8ft day,only the unemployed brave lol...til after work hours

 

With my job, I cannot take off any time I want to surf a huge swell, unlike back when I worked for myself. It's one of the very small cons of what I do now vs working for myself. The cut in pay is probably another! The 4+ months off a year is a HUGE pro. Even though it's in flat season.

Believe me, the ''Do any of these people actually work? How do they survive?'' thought pops into my head A LOT during a crowded weekday lineup.

 

It's 11 feet at 11 seconds with a 30 mph NE on top of it. Peanut Island (inside the PB Inlet) tomorrow, last hour of outgoing tide, could be stomach high and peeling 200 yards, maybe. It's a novelty wave best ridden on a LB, only rarely breaks during VAS conditions on the last hour or so of outgoing tide. That's the plan.

 

^^^ #dialedin

 

I used to have a buddy who lived on a boat at a nearby marina. He would give me the call, "It's surging bro, you better get down here quick". Sadly Capt. Jeff is no longer among us.

 

Reading this made my day!

 

warm sunny morning...trunked it and swam out with the waterproof point and shoot for a bit.

 

Warm sunny morning.... I got dressed and went to work. HA HA (DAMMIT!!!!)

 

nice ^

surfed this morning...clean but wierd first hour. Not really lining up but an hour later, got really fun. 3 hour sesh in waist high waves with an occasional bigger one...great fall day.

 

Nice pics, Mitchell!

It sure was a nice day today! Didn't get to surf, of course. It's been a pretty warm September and October though.

 

Had a really fun Sesh last Friday. Surfed my brains out with my two buddies on that fun chest high E swell. Haven't had as much luck since. Sunday night mushburhers in Mar and some cross shore thigh high dribble today at a S protected spot in the afternoon. I really wish I'd have had the morning, the cams looked fun :/

I did get a new board though! Super brand fling. I took it out today and it made the crap so much more fun.

The yearning right now is real. Wasn't ready for all of our swell to stop pumping.

 

The big chunky in Florida (if you made it out)

[The seeds of discontent were always present. Even when things were good, it was ever lurking]

Not a short paddle and I'd stay north of NASA if you feel me.

[it was true, they all heartened back to the good ol days]

Do-able thanks to the warm water and manageable sand bars.

[they were all looking for another way]

Looks like waves for days, indo for weeks, packed lineups and fat peaks

 

Quick couple of longbort hours on my day off today. Nothing great, but no surf is bad surf, unless it's straight up chop and unsurfable.

My friend went out in the morning, while I was catching up on some much needed sleep and making up hours of a sleeping deficit. He said it wasn't anything special, so we rode the bike path today. Hit the surf in the late afternoon. It was okay, but all the kids getting out of school and people getting out of work started coming at the same time. That's 4:00-5:00 PM for you!

 

went out to the Washout yesterday evening w some ppls. the wind cooperated some and there were some about faces, chest to shoulder. brought a bigger board than necessary and had a pretty miserable session, but i got to ride one in that proved to be worthy to get out of the water. we got the double dippin sandbar so i was glad to i get a right in on the drop, turn left, push my way into another set to get a flaoter and ease to the right to the exit stairs. been a real wind machine this week, perhaps it'll ease some over the wknd and lemme get a somewhat redemption session

 

Some fun ones yesterday morning before the wind got on it.

 

This morning was pretty fun on mid - high incoming (full moon) tide. There was a little morning sickness but after an hour it got fun as the tide filled in. I rode the LB, caught several chest / shoulder high rights. A little bit of drift but nothing too crazy.

There was tons of sh*t on the beach, I pulled lots of stuff from the water, some heavy 4x4's a couple 2x4's, there was an entire section of stairs stuck in the sand / water. The dunes have taken a beating, not much beach left at one of my spots. All those hurricanes destroyed the islands and all that debri seems to be making its way to our shore.

 

Pretty stoked on the last few evenings here on Delmarva. The swells no longer have names, but they still keep coming, the water is over 70, every day has been warm. Got in the water several days last week. trunking it on the mini simmons...IMO a Saturday afternoon in October doesn't get much better. Oh yeah...lefts.