My stance on takeoff is always too narrow and upright... I am known to have my back foot 4 inches too far forward, thus pushing front foot farther forward... And I also on occasion throw my right arm back when pumping frontside. I basically suck. Wouldn’t have known any of that without having someone film or take photos of me. Kind of wish I never knew, because seeing yourself is quite humbling. But, at the same time it has helped me identify what I need to fix. I want one of those solo shots so I can watch and critique myself after every session, but can’t justify the coin for it.
Ha! Yea... maybe 20 years ago... maybe without the head tat... maybe with all my teeth... and without the front trac pad... and without all that skill... other than that, spot on! Kan... I have my back foot more forward than most, too. But I think that suites my style. I'm convinced that your turns are harder if your foot isn't back against the back of the pad... you use more rail with your foot forward. Snappier turns, foot back, over your trailing fin(s). Power turns, foot forward, over your rail fins.
take off deeper for that foot forward thing...I like to go to a steeper wave to mix it up and when I do I don't have to paddle so damn far forward on the bort to get in and when I do I pop up and am a lot farther back on the bort making it easier to get even farther back to get more/faster turns. going to less populated spots, aka winter, also helps with foking around with where to line up, etc you surf air with on shores the other weekend or what??? updates dewd
Oh god, I had a Soloshot, kinda painful to watch. You get a mental image of yourself surfing but when you see it in motion it's kinda depressing. I catch myself sometimes with my feet almost touching in the middle of the board. It usually happens when I'm trying to slip around sections. The Soloshot was cool to be able to capture screenshots the precise moment when things go right, something that is really hard for a photographer to capture especially when they are few and far between. I have some killer pictures of me pulling little airs and smacking the lip that no photographer would have gotten.
LB Fletcher ripping!!! Foot placement has caused more style fluctuations for me over the years then anything else. I find that surfing east coast beach breaks require more front and back foot forward (racing sections, quick off the tops, pulling in) whereas when I travel or lived abroad and surf lined up peaks that set up better, I tend to stay on the tail unless I am pulling in. It's like here I automatically pop up with an instinct to be further up on the board and tend to need to move my foot back to adjust for a turn whereas in better surf (reef breaks or otherwise) I am already on my back foot and ready to do turns and adjust forward for speed or puensai! I think what LB mentions relative to power turns vs snappier is indicative of the EC surf style due to the typical quick down the line beach break or the mushy holding back type waves we often get. Although we are blessed with A frame peeks occasionally where you can really dial in the back foot from the drop. I don't know, I think this has formed my style from 30+ years ago and sometimes when surfing good waves getting on the tail for a snap off the top takes a wave or two to adjust when it gets good...then there is the board stylee that has me doing some different things (i.e more volume and wider shoulder boards versus pure HP short board riding). Then there is getting older and not being as agg as back in the day!!! #stylus metamorphosis
Lb - I think I’m similar in the sense that the forward stance is my style. I have much more of a carvey, laid back steez, but I’m trying to get more progressive. Might just not be for me but I’m giving it a shot. Metard, I am known to occasionally be that windmill dude lol it’s disgusting. My number one thing I’m working on right now is keeping the front arm slightly kinked and at my hip. Pier, my session last weekend was meh. I got above the lip a couple times, which felt cool but the board wasn’t sticking and I was surfing too narrow. Just wasn’t on my game. Patiently waiting for that next sesh to rectify it all.
I just noticed in two photos my wife took that I put my left hand on my left knee when I bottom turn to the right... Never knew I did it but photos don't lie... It looks kinda ghey...
Stylee, is effortlessly riding a wave with any board, long or short. A lot of people have good stylee but don't mistake some for having any class.
