its funny how everyone loves the sunrise they are quite often beautiful,but people waking up early just to go watch is crazy.i see the sunrise and sunsets every single day driving to work,and I'm usually half asleep getting blinded by the sun.i usually look and think to myself oh cool one today.then il come home and go online and see 200 pics of the sunrise lol
^^^^ It's totally diffrent for me. I see sunrises on my way to work most days too. I don't even realize them unless it's spectacular. But if I'm surfing, or even just checking the surf, the sunrise is amazing to me. It's totally a mind set thing. Like some other dude said already. Winter mornings. Hood muffles most sounds, leaving you with not much but your own thoughts. No one around. A few waves, and a sunrise. Its incredible
Everyone loves the Golden Horde. I love a well timed duck dive when you think you're gonna get drilled and you feel it detonate right behind your feet and feel yourself floating safely up the back. Then you think, " I wonder if there's something behind this one?"
I just love poking the old lady first thing in the morning in the butt cheeks and her screaming at me, to get that thing away.....sometimes I'm lucky sometimes not.....it just makes me laugh.
I love the sound of thumping waves as I am crossing the dunes, with the smell of sugar cane burning out west in the cool offshore breeze. It gives me butterflys of anticipation in my stomach, as the rolling ocean slowly is revealed.
I really like to time the waves while out there and try to predict where and when the best waves will present themselves. Tuning into the ocean is a special phenomenon. You can get so tuned that your next wave is/was a premonition. The feeling of a fine tuned session, once completed provides endorphins that last for some time. Surfing is a well rounded use of intuitiveness, adrenaline, and a free flow of thought. I like catching waves.