The Surfing Lifestyle

[video=youtube;BoXu6QmxpJE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BoXu6QmxpJE[/video]

 

I remember reading this article one time from this guy that liked to white water kayak. Apparently he got some scare and wrote that he was quitting due to having a family, etc.... What came next was about 200 comments telling him not to quit, hang in there, I will got out with you next time.

Could you even imagine this in surfing? It would be: good, f-off, glad to see you go, etc.....

 

I hope YOU quit surfing. And posting as well.
We do not need you. Try extreme knitting!!!
And stay out of MY ocean!!!!!!!!

 

Oh mentor, I will never quit. I must carry on the torch you have burned so bright.

 

u know the whole meth van in the plains is not a bad idear

 

Nope, local burns you, steals your car radio, cuts the stems off your tires, then steals your weed.

 

...and your women.

 

Surfing has ruined my life, made me a selfish bastard, and kept my income level below it's potential. Regrets - **** no! I got youze guys, tasty waves and a good buzz!

 

This is it, I once quit a job because an epic hurricane swell was forecasted when I had to work. I dropped college classes because I fell behind from early season swells. Been playing catch up ever since and making my own way that included surfing, It's odd though, most of my early surfing buddies who stuck it out and worked hard are all jealous of the life I have even with the limited income.

 

I always put career and job before surfing because I had a good one; would have been hard to replace.
Waves are a dime a dozen--the ocean (my mistress) always produces more.
I do have to admit--it was very hard doing that as there were lots of times I wanted to give the company the middle finger salute, but I have a gorgeous wife (to my eyes) and a great child whom both always needed me.
I suppressed the salute for them, and I do not regret it--I would do it all over again.
I think I was lucky, very lucky.
That was my path--I hope all of yours worked for you.

 

As most of youze know, I got into surfing late, at the ripe old age of 48. Once I started surfing, I started shaping my life towards water time. At that point my kids were through college and I could start being the truly selfish wanker that I am. So at 55 I will be able to survive, somewhat comfortably, as a beach bum. My path to the Surfing Lifestylee was short, but I'm pretty sure that my love for the water truncated my career path.

 

Classic

 

East Coast Surfing Lifestyle:

Step One: never make plans in advanced, you want your schedule to be wide open so on the rare day that the waves are good you can be on it. A flexible job with the ability to take off last minute is ideal.

Step Two: Train like a professional athlete. Lift weights twice a week (Bench Press, Curls, Push ups, Pull ups, Sit ups). Heavy Weights are not necessary, go for high reps. Bike 30-50 miles twice a week. The waves alone are not consistent enough to keep you in good surfing shape. You will need to do other exercises.

Step Three: Learn to ride and appreciate a fish/longboard. This will greatly increase the fun factor and the amount of days you can surf.

Step Four: Have back up hobbies for when the surf is flat. Biking, Kayaking, Fishing, Snowboarding etc.

With all this being said; absence makes the heart grow fonder. When the conditions for good surf finally do align, you will appreciate good surf much more. I greatly appreciate the fact that I live in a area where I can surf, snowboard, own a house, have a good career and enjoy other hobbies as well.

Ride On

 

^^^Good stuff!

 

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Yep. I've done both. Neither side should judge.

 

me time > money...and i fkn love money

 

Have to agree with BC and RG... You gotta be realistic and get your priorities straight to be happy with whatever life you choose to lead. If realistically, in your own mind and heart, surfing is more important than a job and family, commit to that and don't make promises you can't keep. But if family is more important to you, do the same... commit to that reality and you'll have no regrets. I remember sitting on the beach with my young children watching my friends surf for YEARS. Sure, I wished I was out surfing... but I knew my kids needed me far more than I needed to be in the water on THAT particular day.

Same with jobs and career choices... I think I've said this here before when talking about sneaking out for a surf session: Never lie to your family... lie to your boss! I haven't been sick on a sick day in 20 years...

 

Great advice.

 

jk, hugs not drugs, share the stoke, live like Ben!