To Cold No Waves

fixed

 

Just did a surf check... big and hairy, with 35mph side offshore winds gusting to 45, and a sh!t ton of current. I passed... but it looks ferociously beautiful.

 

It was really fun I got out around that same time and was not disappointed. All lefts and throaty

 

What part of the county did you end up going out? Wind had a better angle south of where I am. It was still kinda sideshore up here, which put a lot of big bumps on the faces of the waves, and made the lip kinda warbly.

 

One town south of og. It’s right up street from me. I wasn’t trying to drive anywhere else

 

14 degrees and -3 wind chill at session time, a new personal low for me. Ice was forming on head. New boots and gloves made it possible. Surf was pumping, had to go.

 

Well... the cold is gone (momentarily)

AND

There's waves on the forecast (momentarily)

Looks like a nice south swell. It's been so flat lately, I have no clue what the sand bars are doing... couldn't do much sand reconne

Bummer that the water temp according to Swellinfo.com has dropped below 40... waters gonna be a bit colder then in years past.

Thankfully we know that Belmar will be going off, no matter what!

#artificalreef

#saltlife

 

Yep, next week looks very surfie. After last week, I'm happy with surfing in low 20's, just no gale please.

 

In high school I remember I paddled out one 2-3 foot winter day without head gear... I lasted about 30 before I couldn't take it any more. BUT, I did go!

 

The dredging by me has helped make some really awesome bars. But they also ruined my go to spot. Still, im pumped for the swell coming. Thinking of heading to a town or two south of Belmar. Love those jetties - wish they would put some in with the dredging but not even going there with that mess

 

Yup, that is how I feel now. Gale winds just plainly suck, and not just for chill, but the strong off shores make visibility challenging. And yeah I am looking forward to this coming weekend and next week...finally, a wave!!

 

Yeah, changing bars usually has one changing plans. Our bars are called "Dead girls car" reef--they were made by the Kennedy family every time they raped and killed another girl. Still one young Kennedy in Congress--we need to see if he will make his own reef or just add to Teddys....