who here has been surfing this week?

Dude you should post more about it in my surf trip thread!

https://www.swellinfo.com/forum/threads/whats-your-next-surf-trip-going-to-be.30527/

 

I managed to get out from about 2-4pm on Wednesday in south Jerz. The sun came out which made it much better with the breeze but that water felt as cold as ever. Waves weren't super consistent but I got several good rides. The rights seemed more open than the lefts which is not usually the case for my spot.

 

I don't have too many on my phone, but my nephew took a video of me out there, when I didn't know I was being filmed. And it was very early and I was pretty rusty. He ass was in the water by the time I got my game going!

Just a couple of the more well known spots and a couple others that are kind of either no-name spots or spots that I don't know the name of, but of course I hit Maria's, which you have to hit when in Rincon and tried out Tres Palmas, which wasn't working that great. Then there was Indicator, which I didn't know much about before I went there, but it was pretty suite! I'm still kinda kook-ish on the spots there and still learning about them, since I hadn't been there before! Would go back again and will go back again! Wanted to hit up in Aguadilla, but just simply didn't have enough time. We would have been wasting time in the water down there, with the time we were driving to get up there! Will definitely hit that up if I have a day or two more to burn up there next time.

I'll definitely get on that, when I have more than a few minutes to write up some more about it! I could write a novel (or at least a couple pages!) of how great it was. Just getting in some warm weather was nice for this time of year, where it's cold, nasty and miserable! And all this frickin snow that we've had!

 

Got off to a late start this AM, intentionally. Winds were lightish early but a cross/onshore wind. Swell was supposed to be fading but winds would be swinging around to almost offshore and getting lighter. Tide was dropping too. Woke up around 730. It's rainy and gloomy. Winds are lighter then originally forecasted. Checked some cams and it looked clean enough. Buoy was 4 or 5 feet at like 6 seconds. Small weak wind swell right?

Man i took out the mini. The fog was thick making it hard to see what was really out there. Not a bad choice, but was the wrong choice for sure. Should of rode my 5'8. On the paddle out i took a few chest high chunky lumpy dumpy waves on the head. The ocean looked mean. Nice lines though. Just bigger then i thought and standing straight up. They would come in fat then hit the bar and just guuuaaaaccggguiee. Lining yourself up was impossible as you couldn't see the shore. Managed allot of good rights though. The mini takes some finesse in conditions like that but it's doable and really fun after the take off. The take off and sliding down the face sideways waiting for the fins to engage is the finesse part. Surfed for a little over 2 hours. Feet and fingers went numb. Gotta get new winter gear for next year.

It was a bit challenging and not user friendly, but damn fun. I thoroughly enjoy waves like today. Sectiony but long lines. Steep walls. For a 6 second swell, it sure felt powerful. Mostly tummy high but sets were chest with maybe a few pushing shoulder high. Maybe it was just the conditions making it seem bigger.

 

Little window of south wind swell this afternoon on the low incoming. Showery, pleasant air temps at my fav spot. Bowly rights off the jetty, and lefts breaking towards the jetty. I was expecting next to nothing and got pleasantly surprised. Swam out with a waterproof point and shoot....the good waves were about a foot bigger than this pic. Nice 2 hour session, that easily could have gone on longer...wasnt cold (really stoked on this new xcel i grabbed for this winter) and if anything the waves were picking up.

 

"Pleasantly surprised" is exactly how I felt yesterday. Tide push around noon was awesome with no wind. Chest high on set, some nice walls and little bowls. Warm air too.

 

Exactly this. Was out from 10-12 in monmouth. Waist high, a few chest high sets, semi clean and a number of fairly long rides with steeper punchier sections here and there. Water seemed warmer than a couple weeks ago for sure, and air temps were springlike. Wore a 4/3 and was perfectly warm. This was the biggest test yet for my needessentials suit, next test will be when water and air are both around 40 (or air in mid 30s). Of course the most important thing is how long it lasts, but I won't know that for a couple years (hopefully). So far I'm stoked, it is easy to put on and off, very stretchy and comfortable to paddle in, and plenty warm.

Anyway, good session. Much better than the weak, sloppy knee high waves I was expecting.

 

Same... Took out the longboard and wished I had the fish. Still fun, though. Pulled into a few but didn't make it out of any.

 

Nice! looks like a blast! that spot is fun when its not crowded.

 

My buddy just sent these photos of me surfing the other week. The waves were nothing special but still fun.

 

Eisenhower. Which probably explains yesterday. A thorough beat down. The VOS finally relaxed to semi manageable at one spot, not to be named. It was head high plus and no period, just one after another, out of the south, off the jetty, and it was a paddle a thon. Very steep fast sections, it was not my day. Did not get one, and ate it on a few. Time to get in better shape, put down the booze for a bit.

Wake up call. That's one thing I love about surfing, Mother O does not lie, and she really does not care. Life is goode.

 

looking like a late afternoon sess today

 

Anyone get out this afternoon in jersey? I saw it before dark, nice size and clean... some lefts and saw a few fast rights... but really looked like A lot of closeouts?

 

Yeah... not a good session for me though. Seemed way bigger than the shoulder to head high reported... prob partially due to tide though. Only one other guy out where I was at, between that and a kinda weird and frequently changing angle on a lot of them of them it was hard to figure out where to sit and hard to stay there. I was being a little too picky, finally had to start moving in as it was getting dark to increase chances of getting something, got caught inside (of course), took a couple on the head and ended up riding a reform to the beach. Like I said, not a good session for me... stoked I got out though.

 

Bombs, easy overhead+ on set. Sick lefts. Heavy and cold. Tough to get positioned but very rewarding.

Prior to tide filling in was Pac-Man city.

Hope to get AM sess.

 

Sounds kinda like what I thought it would be like when I saw it...

Was watching some guys on some lefts- looking like it was hard to stay in the right spot.. and also saw the mixture of different swell angles.. once in a while a nice set of peaks would roll through but it didn't seem to often. I'm ok with missing that for now lol if it was summer it would be a diffferent story

 

bitter cold lefts today on Delmarva. Air temps around freezing...flurries.

 

Always enjoy your photos.
You got out, Mitch, that's great. Can't say the same. My longest dry spell yet.
Prolly spending too much time here posting cartoons...

 

chest high and cold in MA yesterday afternoon. winds were light offshore and some of the sets lined up really nicely, but only lasted two hours in the 28 degree air / 38 degree water. my feet were so numb i felt like i was surfing on peg legs at the end. still stoked to get out!

 

Small perfection this afternoon... lingering longer period east swell was a little inconsistent, but worth the wait between sets. Light offshore wind was cold, but straight offshore for the spot. Couldn't believe how perfect it was breaking... every grain of sand seemed to be in place.

Looked crowded this morning, but didn't stop to see it. Must have been just as good, but bigger. Only one other dude out after work, though.