who here has been surfing this week?

Got out Tuesday to keep 79 month streak alive. I'm getting superstitious about this streak now. I actually took two random middle of the week days off to get to a swell. WINDY and cold AF. Not pretty but still felt good to get 45 minutes of water time in before my face froze.

 

I like the streak count. I must be damn close but never actually tracked it. I cant remember a month in the last 5+ years that I did not surf at least 1 day.

 

Tomorrow is looking fun...

 

Another day of small waves yesterday. So far every swell this past Jan has been a small one-day wonder. When do we get our winter whomping???

 

Drainers in OCMD, once low tide hit there was some that were leaving about 10 inches of water on the bar. It took everything I had to try and slow down and stall into this one.

 

Get some new boots. No leak can be tolerated when water temps dip into the 30's. I got new boots, and I be like, damn, why did I wait so long. I surfed for 3 hours yesterday in NH.

 

Did a lunch session it was waist to chest and weak. Great to get wet, got a few dribblers amongst a horde of groms and had fun in the sun. At the secret inlet, it was blown out everywhere else.

 

Tide was too deep today and yesterday at first light, so I pulled a Barry and went back home. I may get off early today around low tide, hope to get some before wind messes it up as the front approaches.

 

Tide's too high now, but looks like a little longboard wave could appear around noon. Took the day off to get a few things done.... might as swell make the most of it.

 

Got in three decent days of surf this past week ranging from thigh hi to OH. Good times with my bros and one solo sess.

Got some nice long left walls one of the days and boy that felt great being able to jam some solid turns off of. Never made any barrels. I could totally go for some of that in my life right now.

It’s been freaking cold. This winter has been mehh. Patiently waiting for spring.

Tmrw might offer some wavestorm worthy peaks. Tbd.

 

Fun waist - chest LB session this morning. It was grey and overcast with a moderate - stiff offshore wind. I caught several good rides before having to run off to work. I had it to myself till one other guy paddled out a few minutes before I left.

 

Jersey looked really fun this morning in the head high+ range. Had my gear packed and ready for first light before work, but I couldn’t get out of bed... One of those nights where I just couldn’t fall asleep. Sometimes you just gotta listen to your body.

Not stoked.

 

I paddled out in Deal. 6:45 am. Pretty big. Only guy as far as I could see up and down beach. The odd occasion where I would have liked to see others. Typical top to bottom breaking NJ peaks. Caught one wave...straightened out and came in.

Summary: Many close outs. Strong current. Paddle out would be hell w/out timing it from shore like initial paddle out. Big. Cold. Lonely. Super Bowl hangover for the masses.

 

Some good waves this morning in the head high + range. But similarly as above, the southern current in the lineup was a pain... constant paddling... and it was a bit of a challenge on the paddle out. Many guys where getting caught inside, it was shallow and the sets where really nailing the sandbar one after another. But you could walk out alongside the Jetty far enough to wait and try to time it out.

It was fun but it was a workout. I only got a few waves, had to go to work.

A lot of spots were closing out, but I found a spot where it was peeling perfectly. Your jetties that typically hold bigger waves will probably be working perfectly... it's probably gonna get smaller later anyways so every Jetty will probably start working

 

Thought I could go surfing this AM--but......sore throat and fever...great (sigh). Anyway, wind is blowing 40MPH offshore, and, as usual, screwing the waves up royally.
Two weeks ago, I woke up at 10:30PM, vomited until 4:30AM, when only bile was coming up. Unable to walk, Mrs. Cuda called the ambulance, and off I was into the local ER, completely dehydrated, 3-4 hours later after 2 IVs and injectable anti-vomit meds, I was released. Had to take oral anti-emetics for 5 days. Cause?? No idea.
Been a phucked up winter so far.
Lets see, what is next?? Bubonic plague?? Oh wait....not until I plan to go surf, then a freaking plague transmitting flea will fly up from New Mexico just to bite me, in the winter, after it kills the rat it has been living on.

 

Bummer, glad you’re doing better! At least better than being in the ER. Take care of that sore throat and fever before you end up back in there.

 

Barry was it the flu?

 

dawn patrolled it this morning...racy rights running fast and shallow. Shot this pic of my buddy going backside on a board i shaped a few years ago, rode until it was brown, and gave to him last year thinking he would like it. So stoked seeing a board I rode for 5 years getting put to good use by a friend. Like him, I'm goofy foot and grabbed rail on set waves like this one just trying to beat sections watching the water drawing off the sandbar, not being able to pump for speed in a low backside crouch. It wasn't big in Delaware, and the wind blew it out by mid morning but good times in 30 degree air 40 degree water!

 

nope--no idea what it was.

 

Cool pic as always Mitch. Man, kudos to you for "giving" a board a way. Says a lot about your character...much Aloha!!! Most guys would want something in return.