who here has been surfing this week?

A

 

Yesterday afternoon was so fun....warm spring day where a bad wind never came up, long period swell way too small to attract any attention....filling in with the incoming tide so by 5 p.m. waist high lines were setting up nicely. Surfed for a while with just a few people out....fast rights peeling more suited to a reg. footer. By 5:30 or so the light was just magic. Grabbed the point and shoot and swam out to shoot a couple.

 

Family has a place in Ocean View, I'll be there late Friday night so I'm pretty SOL it's looking like.. I don't have Monday off so I'll be around till Sunday night before heading back. You around? Love me a little SI meetup if there's something out there.

 

Love it!! Need me some of that this weekend..

 

Surf was smooth like silk panties this morning. Chest high and clean, long lefts and rights, and some good friends to share great waves with. Didn't even have to use my AK, today was a good day.

 

#smoothlikesilkpanties

 

I atoned, for an hour today. Got 12 nice long waves on the LB on the incoming push, in the waist to chest hi range, with only a few folks out. Some nice walled up lefts from the outside bar almost to the surfcasters down the beach a bit.

They seemed a bit peeved on some of my longer runs, throwing a bit of the ole stink eye in my general direction but hey, their lines were drifting south too, so no harm no foul. I never went past where they were standing. It was probably too nice out and too low tide for them to catch anything anyway, the water was warm and clear, no bait, no birds, just a nice little breeze and a nice little swell. Life is goode.

 

Sneaker session tonight, super fun.

 

Small, weak, glassy surf this afternoon with the incoming. Took out the log. Water was crystal clear.

63F in February?

 

"silk panties"...lol


Anyway, got in an hour sesh during lunch today. Nothing special wave-wise, but nice to finally get out after a way too long dry spell. Back in the saddle again...
Beautiful weather too.

 

Went at first light with my buddy in 23 footer land. Fog was pretty heavy, couldn’t see the shore when I got outside and it was dark. Pretty spooky. Some fun split peeks in the waist to stomach high range. Inconsistent chest high sets were coming through, but while we were waiting on the inside we missed all the big ones.

Got a few good ones and some cutbacks. The water and swell had a nice look to it. Really glassy. Wish I had longer than an hour. When the tide switches I bet it’ll be fun.

 

Those silk panties made their way down to Melbourne this morning. Glassy Chest+ on the sets, it was the last hour of incoming high tide so it was inconsistent with it being deep but the sets had size and punch to them. I rode the 6ft M-80 and got a handful of fast lefts. Great weather, no fog like yesterday when visibility was like 5ft.

 

This morning reminded me of a post on here from a few weeks back by LBCrew (i think). I jinxed myself with that post a few days back. Sorta. I planned to get to the beach early. Fading swell and rising tide. High tide isn't too deep today though so as long as there is a wave it should be breaking good. Well upon waking up at 545AM i check the buoy and see a 5 sec period. Fudge. Head out anyway. As i walk out the door i see its already light out and i could've been in the water already. WHEN THE HELL DID THAT HAPPEN? Iv been getting out around 7 my last few seshs. I guess the cloudiness of those seshs threw me off.

Get to the beach and not a soul in sight. It's 28 degrees out and forecast was not looking epic by any means. But there are allot of guys here that would be all over it. What am i missing. I don't even check it. I just go. As i walk over the dune and get my first glance that skunked feeling creeps over me. Barley breaking feet shore. Then i see a set break outside. It looked good! Nice line. Clean. Still alittle weak but totally doable. I'm in. As i get to the outside i had to suck dive another set. There is something out here. Then like a switch went off....nothing. I hold my ground. Dont get suckered inside. Gotta be efficient here. After 10 min or so i start thinking the ocean hates me and start moving around trying to come up with a plan. I move inside a bit then i see a set. Damn i knew it would happen like that. Paddle back outside fast, turn and burn. It wasn't quite waist high, but bigger than though. Let's say genitals high. First section actually had a bit of a wall to it where i got one big pump in for speed, then the thing just peeled. A big drawn out cutback. Another slightly tighter one. Then cruise to sand. Gotta love the mini sims. Maintains its speed so well to make maneuvers possible on smaller/weaker waves. Only got 3 other ones like that before it completely died out.

I don't know if i got skunked or not. There was allot of sitting still... cold.... waiting for the rare set. My booties and gloves were damp from the get go. Got less than 5 waves. Sesh only lasted an hour. But i had fun. I felt like a hunter out there, knowing there was only a handful of chances to make this worth it. I don't know if i succeeded or not, but i had fun. So that's a win in my book

 

#suckdive

 

Not sure which thread to post this in, as it involves a shark encounter.

I was the first and only person in the water, just before sunrise at first light, which is a little after 6:30am Bassmon lol

There was fishermen lined up on the beach with multiple poles. I found a spot out of people’s way for the most part. I surfed for a good 90 minutes or so.

Water warm, glassy, last couple hours of incoming high tide, it was deep but breaking inconsistently in the waist high range, perfect for the LB.

I got some good rides, lefts and rights, I was having a blast, wished it wasn’t cut short.

The tide began squashing the outside sets and was only breaking on the inside. I was sitting on my board waiting for a wave, then suddenly I spot a fin headed in my direction as it got closer I began to see the size of this thing, maybe 6-7ft, Small fin, big body. Possibly a bull shark, or possibly that juvenile GW that was spotted off the coast of Melbourne a few days ago.

I laid on my boart motionless, all hands on deck for what seemed like forever as I waited for him to leave the area, but he hung out for about 15-20 minutes eating all the fish in the trough. Usually about 50 yards from me, at one point he was about 10 feet from me and I began to get nervous.

I didn’t panic, I just laid there and waited it out, and just told myself to remain calm and eventually he would go away, which he started to move down the beach some. Once he was more than 50 yards away and headed the opposite direction I slowly and quietly paddled to shore keeping an eye on him the whole time and got out.

None of the fisherman said a thing. When I asked one of them if they saw the fin and he said no he just got there.

That’s probably the most nervous I have been with a shark being that close to me. Usually it’s the 3-4ft type, but this guy was big, and could have easily have killed me.

I’m probably going back out this afternoon, wish me luck! Lmao

 

Hahaha suck dive. Good catch.

And I'm telling you man. I was at the beach at 630.... It was damn light out. I could've paddled out at 6 with plenty of light. I know "sunrise" is just shy of 7 or something. My plan was to be there at 630 for first light. I was off by a solid 30 min. I'm usually on point with that sort of thing. Dropped the ball today. That extra time most likely would of resulted in more consistent/mo better waves.

My last few sessions have been gloomy overcast days, so 7 was my first light. That's my story and in sticking to it.

 

Surfline shows first light for your area around 6:19am, it’s later down here.

 

Got out for the first time since Christmas Eve yesterday. Nice waste high peelers breaking clean and consistent. I figured I would be terrible after the two month layoff but caught my first wave pretty easy. Side shore current was pretty strong and offshore winds were stiff so the rest of the session consisted of paddling like crazy and missing waves until my shoulders and back were toast. One of these days I'll learn to move inside and catch the waves later when I'm not in surfing shape. It was so good to be back in the water though. Feels like a weight was lifted. Going to try to get back in tomorrow.

 

I went back out for a 2nd sesh, saw a fin at the same exact spot, not sure if it was a shark or not, then I saw a spinner shark boost an air lol good times! Thigh / waist high, light onshore wind made it a little bumpy but not too bad , more LB fun!

 

Shoot man I wish I had seen this, although we didn’t miss shiet today. I live down in Oc. Nothing tomorrow either man. Ocean view is a tight spot though. Pretty laid back especially this time of year