Wishing I was in Hawaii right now. My friend in the corps. called me at 9 pm (4pm there) and said there were 30 foot swells.
The Eddie Aikau Memorial competition was held today. AKA the swells had to be enormous, so we know. http://live.quiksilver.com/2009/eddie/ Plus, when don't you wish you were in Hawaii? (rhetorical)
Plus, when don't you wish you were in Hawaii? (rhetorical) [/QUOTE] i know right. ive wanted to go there forever. now i am finally getting a chance to go next winter.
I was there January 2006 and got to see the Pipe Masters for Bodyboarding... was 20-25ft with bigger sets and just firing... Sitting on the beach at Pipe (yes that's all I could do haha) you could feel the ground rumble when a set wave broke.. it was a dream to see that. Also got to see Pierre Louis Costes (Pro BB'er for those who don't know) at age 15 charging those 20ft swells at Pipe... it was incredible.
I just always wonder how the guys get out there in that mess. I would try like hell but I would def get tossed around. I never went there and I wanna go there and Bodyboard some spots there but how in the world do you paddle out in that ****
Unlike here, there are channels that don't break or break a lot less hectic than the main peak and make way for paddle outs...
i lived in maui for a bit and it was amazing!!! now in back in jersey fist pumpin on the jersey shore!!! hahahaha but seriously maui was insane and honolua bay, well you gotta surf it to believe it...
I thought the same thing until i actually stepped on the beach and saw the real deal. You cant feel the energy from any picture/video on the internet. Its a lot different when you are sitting less that 100 yards from 4-6 ft pipe. (10-14 ft faces NJ size, HAHA) Surfed Haliewa,thinking it would be more forgiving than other spots north. Sat in the lineup for a few minutes until BOMB sets would come out the back, and showed me i was not ready. Cant even compare the energy out there to BIll, Hannah, or Ida.
go to hawaii early season or late season for the 6-8-10 foot stuff that is clean, pushes your limits and will not kill you. dec-feb is normally big and stormy, not nearly as clean and fun. no offense but there isnt too many people on this website that can surf 15foot hawaiian, let alone 30foot. gotta know your limits or the braddahs gon ask you "eh buu, like beatings?"
Had a friend who used to say to me "Your telling me if we were in Hawaii right now standing at pipeline and it was 20' you wouldn't paddle out?" I always said "no way, but I would watch you paddle to your doom" . If something was breaking head high + or under I would do it, otherwise I would be taking a lot of pictures.
Truthfully, I would do it if it were a tow out. But I'd probably be sitting out there for hours lining up for the perfect wave with a good drop; More worried about the paddle out then anything. I'd probably write a will first though haha.
yeppp first time you see and experience first hand what its like to see big pipe breaking - its unreal feeling the energy through the beach. its like the pacific ocean is reminding you whos boss... and then you see the occasional guy come up covered in blood as an extra reminder to stay at ehukai if you needed one
haha and our head high is their 2-3ft. Yeah, that is something I will never forget and hope to get back one day,
the paddle out at those breaks is not bad at all... You almost paddle around it. Much worse paddle outs around here when they just keep rolling in breaking all over the place. Now, getting stuck inside out there is a different story.
I would be happy surfing 2-3ft Hawaiian. I always dream about moving somewhere, where our chest to head high surf is considered flat by the locals and I could have it to myself everyday between the real swells. I would be happy with that for the rest of my life .
I would love too just go there let alone bodyboard there or surf there. I'm a little crazy so I might paddle out in 15' waves but would I actutally take a wave? That I don't know I would just go out there and say im out there take a smaller wave on one of the sets "GET KILLED" hopefully walk out alive and not fcked up by the reef and call it aday.
I don't know you and not trying to be a ****.. but I'm going on a plunge here and going to say that you WOULD NOT paddle out in 15ft Hawaiian waves. Just sayin...
