What is your surfing life missing

The flu.

 

Perpetual low-incoming tide

 

My 20 yr. old body

 

fkn hear that!

 

More nooks and crannies for diffrent swell/wind directions.

 

haha - i definately wasn't thinking of you when i wrote that. a few months away is nothing. I was thinking about people who were always on it for years and years, guys like Art, Teddy, Hairball, Vince, Travis, Waldo....always on it year after year, you knew if you went to a particular spot that would be working, they would be on it. and then just kind of moved on, and suddenly you realize its been 5-10 years and its never coming back.

 

yeah..down south this might not be as much of a factor, but it wasn't THAT long ago that if you pulled up to a spot mid-week anytime between December and March there were going to be a few people out, and you would know them all because people didnt fvcking TRAVEL HOURS to surf in 45 degree water. and if it was under chest high, VERY few people out.

I chafe pulling up to some spot mid winter mid week, 3 foot average conditions, and see the same five guys i know would probably be there, but also 5 more guys in VW Tourag type deals, DC tags, and go-pro gear. I expect that in July, its kind of fvcked up for a tuesday in February.

 

fewer crowds and consistency. in that order.

 

surfing

 

In order of importance:

1) A classic sand point (left or right, doesn't matter)

2) A reef. Any reef. With a channel.

3) Warm water would be a welcome change

And a lot less kooks in the lineup. Maybe I should put that first.

 

Priyanka Chopra

 

#sandreconne

 

More time... to surf, and to do all the things I consider "extensions of my surfing life": build boards, dive, fish, stay fit, read books, travel...

 

Retire already!!

 

As soon as I get my youngest through college... if she chooses that route. And right now, that's what it looks like. Right now I got one in, one out and working, and one on her way. It's a loooooong road.

 

You should be given the Congressional Medal of Honor.
I did the same...paid for undergrad, Masters, and PhD. Three educations, all rolled into one.

 

Get a job Spicoli!!!

 

More... Belmar...

 

Surfinglife perfect
I'm a raisin in the sun
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My Chair-