Side note - this is another crap storm in terms of helping with the so far terrible ski season. Get it together nature.
no east coast beach that i know of (except belmar) can handle 20 footers. IF it does get that big near-shore there will be lines of white water as far as you can see. If we're lucky we'll get some pulses of head-overhead groundswell (which my local beach can't handle anyway )
RCs, Monster Hole, Jupiter Inlet/Civic Center, Reef Road, Boynton Inlet all hold big swell, it's just how prepared are you for a double hold down, leash snapped situation. I don't mind naming spot names, if you can surf waves that big, you know this already. I'll bring a camera and take pics, then maybe go to a sheltered spot where its 10 foot faces and surf a few. Then tell everyone I surfed the giant swell. They'll see the pics and go WOW! lmao
the swell is already shrinking soon itll be cue the blues music...."the swell is gone,....... the swell is gone away"
This is spot on. I just got back from a week in Snowshoe and lucky for us it snowed a half foot the day before we arrived so the conditions throughout the week were manageable but everyday, except the day we left, was in the upper sixties and melting away quickly. We got 50 out of 52 trails open but a couple days after we left it showed 26 out of 52 and dwindling quickly. I actually enjoyed worrying more about sun screen than a facemask and there was zero ice spots. Hope this swell holds though. Our beach doesn't have the ideal swell direction but it shows offshore for a few days so I'll take some glassy overhead running lefts, even though I'm regular. I'm also not going to complain with 57 degree water in February. Bizarre!!
Even the flaming assholes at Surfline are hyping the storm. They should keep their asses attention to California: http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/s...-ahead-active-atlantic-lining-up-larg_152007/
I'm not sure what area you're speaking of. But iv noticed with SI that its sometimes funny like that. For instance onshore at 6mph will be red. Everyone stays home because all they see its colors. And i score fun waves. At 5mph though it'll be blue or whatever. I guess it's the algorithm. Swell looks like it dropped some. Saturday morning is now only looking waist high then building by afternoon. I'm not sure how surfable it'll be. Gotta wait and see. 10ft is really the max it can hold around me, with the right tide and spot. As for the 20ft stuff. Iv seen pictures of some huge stuff in FL. Don't know the area at all but I'm sure there are some spots. Up north of NY there are some select spots that might be able to hold it. My point is throughout the east coast there are spots that can hold more size than most typical beach breaks. I'm not saying all can hold 20ft. I don't think iv ever seen a 20ft swell. But over 10ft, there are certainly spots that can hold it.
Seen 20 ft swell and was basically unsurfable, complete washing machine cane swell. Anything over 10ft will shutdown at most spots.
Alright so here’s my deal... how the f*ck do you duck dive a 15-20ft wave??? How do you stay out of THAT impact zone? How do you get out alive with no channel on a beach break? I want to charge but I just don’t know how to navigate that kinda of sh*t. Even if I’m in tip top shape, which I am not, it’s still a gamble. Who among us can say they are comfortable in 15-20 foot waves? Even if it’s clean and has decent lulls...
I think it really depends on the type of break you are surfing... Big hollow waves are much more intimidating than big slow rollers. And waves with deep water channels and heavy rips are much easier to get out to. I think getting out in big stuff is all about timing and strategy. Looking for rips, timing set waves, deep duck dives, etc. My duck diving is weak. Can never get enough depth. Biggest waves I’ve surfed were 10-12 footers in Mex. Really wasn’t that bad, but I was spooking a little bit. They broke in water much deeper than around here and weren’t all that hollow. I haven’t been denied paddling out in a long while, but it happens to the best of us. You don’t know until you go.
"Comfortable?" Nobody... if you're an EC guy with average surf in the waist to chest high range. Biggest beachbreak I've ever surfed was 15', twice in my life. I don't think I'd take that on today, but keep in mind there's 15' storm surf, and 15' rideable surf, even on the EC. The latter is rare... a once or twice in a lifetime thing... at least in my experience. Brother... if it was 15' perfection, you would not be able to stand on the beach and watch. You'd at least give it a go... 15' Tres is a whole 'nother animal. Or any other long period reef or point break for that matter. You know as well as I do it's not about paddling into a DOH or TOH wave... it's about the beating you take getting out to it, either from the beach, or from the inside.
You bail the board and dive for the bottom, as far as your leash will let you. This also reduces shock on rhe leash as ita a constant pressure. Worst case ypu get denied, which I have been plenty of times. No shame in that. You should be doing heavy cardio right now up until the event. New leash and biggest step up. That being said its still a LOT of work.
Yeah. The biggest iv had was around 10ft. And i was not comfortable. Hell, I'm never 100% comfortable when's its over head. Maybe comfortable isn't the word I'm looking for. I'm confident in my ability but my whole mindset changes and i become more picky. Always need to get a few to shake the nerves off. It's a head game. Got to be confident and trust yourself, but not over/false confident. Anyway, DP, as far as getting out in 15-20 foot faces. I have no experience but my perception was always that at that size, you need a channel. Some sort of point/reef set up (usually. Puerto comes to mind as an exception). I really don't think that's possible. At least not on beach breaks without a proper channel.