who here has been surfing this week?

I got a quick session in after work, waves still chest - head with OH sets. Stiff offshore wind, made it a bit challenging getting into them but got me one just before dark. Felt good.

 

Felt good to get some in the sun too

 

Still fast 8 foot barrels at my spot, took me two trys to get out today, fast sketchy drops with hard mid day offshores, then off to the races. It's been better (longer lulls) to the south, but with a tight schedule I had to take some lumps up here. Life is goode.

 

Men, it’s been a real fun run so far. Surfing with the buds, going over the falls on a well over head wave and shin your board so hard you put a nice crack in the rail, several mates with broken boards still surfing the day after with duct tape and Saran Wrap over the noses. Riding the high of good vibes and stoke as much as the actual waves themselves. Im happy everyone else scored, the pictures are amazing. Here’s a shot from home from yesterday.

 

Bitchen, man...just bitchen. (Is that expression still used?)

 

Thursday morning tube fest. Mostly close outs like pictured but still great fun. Most were sorted out by Thursday so it was pretty uncrowded

 

Al the photos I posted are from 911surfreport by the way. They are some of the most dedicated people I know.

 

I use it all the time mate

 

It was really fun this morning. Waist - chest with a few a little bigger on some of the sets. Long period 15 second ENE swell with wind 9-12 mph SE. Not perfect but a lot of long rides on the LB. The crowd wasn’t bad at a normally crowded spot. People must be surfed out or something.

 

With a little bit of a wait there is still a waist - chest set wave out there at certain sand bars.

What a beautiful morning. It started out slow on the outgoing tide but once it got low enough the waves started to break and then the incoming push really turned it on for a while.

I rode the LB, probably a smart decision with the slow rollers that required some float. Fun weekend all around!

Oh, and I saw some guy surfing one of those hydrofoil boards. Weird, but he was surfing that thing.

 

That may have been Ben Gravy. He's down there and he has one of them there fancy hydro boards

 

Maybe, didn’t look like him but who knows, he said hi when he paddled out but that’s about it. I kept to myself since he chose to paddle out and sit right next to the only guy within a half mile. That always irritates me for some reason.

 

I remember before the big swell, a buddy was down from MA with his family, and we went surfing in fun chest high swell, and he said he and his wife were at a Dead show down here the night before, and then I had this going thru my head the rest of the session as I was getting good liners. Easy to forget the sanguine moments.

 

Anyone get out in SNJ today? I'm stuck at work and it looks pretty good right now on the cams...

 

Where in the hell is Mitchell with the pics?!?!?!?!

 

Very picky out there today.....skipped all the sets, as I really don't even think they were paddle-able with how hard they were throwing. But good god, there were some gems if you were patient.

 

The jersey lefts looked real good today... I didn't make it out, but saw a few standout spots that are known for good lefts during this type of swell... saw a few good rides too.
Hope you guys got on it!

 

got out in the pm after work.twas pretty solid

think it had too much north in the wind,probably nnw would be my guess,but there were some legit gems out there 8 footers.current was raging lol had to walk up the beach like quarter mile or something past the break just so u end up in the spot once u paddle out or youd drift to new York.was good tho,really solid,its been the best season I could remember

 

Spot on. I didn’t get out until about 5:45. But, my spot of choice was throwing some nice and dense chest to shoulder lefts, barrels and all. Got some of the best lined up waves I’ve had in a while. Stoked.