who here has been surfing this week?

Got out in RI yesterday after taking the ski season off. Good times but took a while to get the timing back while surfing with the full suite/gloves, etc...

 

I remember this day mitchell, thanks for the pic (second pic yellow board). I think it was you I bumped that day with my board, sorry about that man! Also think my friend contacted you about going to maldives with us end of May, any change in mind? I promise I won't drop on you! take care

 

Hahaha! Yea, brother... famous last words!

Late one fall... as the holidays approached...I friend of mine who doesn't surf much anymore ran into me in town. "Hey... how have you been? Kids home for for Winter Break?" etc... you know how those conversations go. Then he says, "I got my Christmas cards all printed up... you'll get one soon." "Yea? What is it this year?" (They're one of those families that always send out Christmas cards with a picture of all of his boys, wife, dog... in some kind of cute-sie theme.) "It's a picture of YOU... dropping in on ME, on a set wave during the Bill swell!"

See... people don't forget those things. Have fun in the Maldives.... alone! lol!

 

Small leftover swell on Sunday morning. Bday swell so i suited up along with a buncha of ppl by the pier (overly crowded IMO). i didn't jump on that crowd,stayed to the left by the house n gotta couple on the LB. surprised there was anything, so i was happy with what i could get. hot day, worthy of the 3/2 but can't wait till this wknd to jump in the FL waters

 

Lately I've only been a weekend warrior and it seems every weekend it's flat or I have other commitments. Thank god it's getting dark later so I can score some evening sessions! Hope I remember how to get to the beach

 

Surfed one day last week... nothing to write home about...

But it's official- winter suite is done! Wore the 4/3 and was perfectly fine! Just did a final rinse and wash on the winter suite and it's hanging to dry until next year!

 

I'm jealous. The winter suit usually doesn't bother me. But this year iv been feeling super restricted. Don't know if it's me getting older or if the suits just gotten old and lost it's flexibility. But anyway on Saturday when i was out, i was pretty cold still. Was hoping to feel the water warming up, maybe even peel the hood back since it was a nice day. Nope. Felt just like any other winter day. I get the feeling I'll be in that thing till june. The fact that it snowed yesterday isn't helping

 

I haven't made the shift yet, but last time I was out I thought the water was approaching 45 or so. Next session... maybe.

 

Yup.... coulda done the 4/3... but didn't. Should have. Will next time.

Some fun barrels this afternoon after a line of storms passed... finally getting a couple of south swells recently with the change of seasons. Sandbars were set up nicely... good size at first but the wind knocked it down fast, blowing 25-30 knots... but straight offshore.

 

I took the LB out for a paddle (no leash) it was small, like knee - thigh, but every now and then a waist high wave would roll through. I caught a few but it wasn’t quite scratching the itch. It was a gorgeous morning though. Glassy with a light offshore wind. Water is warm, could skin it but wore my new sleeveless spring suite. Hoping we get some better surf soon.

 

What??? You no leashed it...j/k.

What's the sleeveless spring, is it the same thing as a short John? I'm currently ready to pivot to the 3/2!

 

Lol Yeah I was feeling dangerous. The sleeveless is the same as a short John. I like it so far. Xcel makes a good product.

 

I actually really want one of those DP. But with long legs. I wear a wetsuit year round up here. But sometimes in the dead of summer it's just a tad too much. Think just ditching the sleeves would be a good idea. Let me know how you like it after you get a few uses out of it

 

It’s really light and could be worn most days nearly year round down here, the 3/2 only gets 2-3 months of use, and that’s off and on with the cold fronts. When it’s a bit cooler I wear a regular spring with short sleeves or a long sleeve 2/1 pullover top with 2 mil undershorts under my trunks. Anyways, after wearing it 3 times I believe you would like it a lot.

 

was kind of a bust here in nomoco nj this afternoon.it was one of those rare occasions where the waves turn on as soon as I get off work,which never happens.it had all the potential to be epic,just lacked in size.forecast said 5ft was more like 2ft and barreling perfect,the offshores had to be atleast 35mph it was wicked.wasnt cold tho

 

Yea. Wind killed it quick. Just happy to rinse off.

 

So here i am in neptune beach surfing a really bad beachbreak of course, and the water is supposed to be 68 but instead i am cold in a 3/2! Maybe 60, tops, but surfing great 1st time since the achilles rupture 8 months ago, so...

Pure stoke.

 

So busy with work, that I haven't gotten out since I was in California 2 weeks ago on business. Had a pretty decent couple hours in Santa Cruz. Down in LA/So Cal, not anything too great, which I already posted about. Forecast looks great around here for tomorrow morning and apparently it was a hell of a day today! Just couldn't make it out though.

Shout out to whoever posted those pics from Oahu in the photos section. Those got me pretty pumped. Always love seeing pics from there, they seem to put me in a great mood immediately and are pretty relaxing.

 

Yesterday late afternoon was fun for a bit.

 

Surfed for about an hour after work yesterday, it was really fun, and then it wasn't anymore. Waist to chest high clean lines when I first paddled out but the wind beat it down to knee highish within about 20 min it seems like. Wind was very hard offshore and the current was a massive pain in the ass. Actually woke up with something mildly strained in my upper back this morning, presumably from the nonstop paddling yesterday. Good to get out though, warm air, warm(er) water, and a couple pretty fun rides. Perfectly warm in the 4/3, I think the 5 mil is officially done for the season now. Kinda funny, I finally got a 4/3 last fall and assumed it would allow me to hang up the 5/4 much earlier than in previous years (when I'd wear it into late march or even early to mid april before switching to the 3/2).... not so much this spring. I did wear the 4/3 on warmer days even in the middle of winter, but I also was very much not all that warm in my 5/4 as recently as last week.

Spring always used to be by far my least favorite of the 4 seasons... three winters of dedicated surfing (i.e. pretty much every day there's waves all winter long) has absolutely cured me of that. I'm sure by about mid-june I'll be totally over the flat spells and crowds, but right now all i want is to not be cold anymore, so I am seriously stoked on the change of seasons.