who here has been surfing this week?

Okay, but are you sure it is YOUR toes you are touching??

 

O

 

I surfed yesterday and my body feels like I mowed 10 lawns.

 

^^ I hear you. Ditched work early and got out two hours on Tuesday. Then a couple hours yesterday. Disorganized and kind of choppy but with enough size to have some fun rides. Shoulders and back are feeling it some, but in a good way. Hoping to catch it early tomorrow before work

 

knee high glass this morning on Delmarva...warm air temps at 8 a.m. hour long session in just a 3/2 no boots and gloves. Nearby buoy is reading 56 and that about how it felt. slight tingle on the feet, hands fine, 3/2 getting it done with the warm air, calm wind, sun and tiny waves. Felt very liberating to shed a bunch of rubber all at once...my last session was in a 4/3, hood, boots and gloves.

 

Bachelorette party gig?

 

Nobody wants to see that.

 

Got out for about 4.5 hours today. It was much better than yesterday, but nothing too big. Big enough for a short bort.

I went out in a 3/2 today. Water is 48-50 degrees, but the air temp was like 92-93 degrees and sunny today. Supposed to be 83 tomorrow and looks like it could be another decent surf day. We had a pretty good May-June here last year, where I surfed about 70%-75% of the days. It's good to be off work and able to surf.

 

Happy to just wear a rashie, Island chain off Sumatra

 

On Tuesday AM, I went out to surf early--nobody in the water, or on the beach, or on the street paralleling the water. I surfed for a bit, went to get out , picked up my board--when I did, something snapped in my lower back. I froze, just stood there 100% immobilized. Could not turn either way. After a couple of minutes I made it back to the car, struggled out of my suit, and carefully drove home (2 minutes away). From waters edge to getting into car to drive....1 hour and 15 minutes--getting out f the suit was agony. I went to outpatient MD place. Take 3-4 tramadol per day. No gym. No surfing. Stoned out my tree at home.
First time in 25 years I have had a problem with my back. And I set myself up for it by introducing a new back training exercise into my routine at the gym 2 weeks ago.
Sucks.
Only good part of it, my wife is taking care of me as if I were her baby...!! What great lady she is!

 

I aint no doctor and no offense, but I'm more than half your age. But iv had a similar situation back in high school. During a lacrosse game. Pinched a nerve in my lower back. Syatica or whatever. My back has had problems ever since. Stretching the entire body.... back, legs, hips, upper back/shoulders.... has helped keep the problems at bay.

Not saying this is your problem. But figured I'd throw it out there. Feel better ya old fart

 

That is exactly my problem; I have been doing the stretches, but I had been doing them last 9 months at the gym as well (3X week), plus other back training exercise. Bottom line--I overdid it. Anyway, its Friday, am still stiff, but a lot less every day since Tuesday. In a few days it will be gone and better, I suppose.
Aging sucks, kids...do it carefully. I should be happy I can still surf, ride off road bikes, hike, take long walks, and spend quality time with wife and family, etc.

 

Small but surprisingly fun longboard session here this morning. Rolled up at 545 and almost didn't go out, much smaller than expected, looked to be about ankle to knee high. Paddled out anyway, nice morning, was already up, figured the water would feel good given how hot it's been lately... the size was lacking for sure, but the rides were long. Thigh high sets, not perfectly peeling by any means, but pretty much every wave I caught could be ridden all the way to the beach, with little drops and steeper sections connected by sections of going straight through whitewater.

Water seemed colder than expected, but was okay in 4/3, boots, and gloves. No hood for the first time this year. Hands got pretty numb because my gloves were full of holes, but otherwise comfortable. Surfed for about an hour and definitely would've stayed for more if I didn't have to get to work.

 

Yikes!

 

Mushy waist high nugs this morning. tolerable in a 3/2.

 

Got out for a couple more hours today, over two different sessions. Not too many people out. Waves were nothing big, nor quality, but I'll surf anything I can this time of year, with no work and all day to surf. Barely waist high, but wore a 3/2 again today. Air temps weren't quite as hot, but still in the 80's. Felt a little chillier today in the 3/2, especially during the late afternoon session.

I have some other stuff to do today, but Monday looks suite right now.

 

Kinda bummed on today. Kinda not. I'll get to that. But first, this is how today went.

Chest to shoulder high. Low tide. Good winds but a tad strong. Checked my first go to spot. Saw a few that looked alright. Saw a bunch that just dumped. Saw one peak i really liked but it got packed quick and it needed time for some tide to fill in. Watched it for awhile then about 30-45 min after dead low my friend was thinking of just going out. I agreed (don't like waiting around watching) but really wasn't thrilled with what i was seeing. I suggested we take a look a 2 minute drive up the road at a spot he checked on his way in. It was dumpy then. But the spot we were at wasn't great and was getting crowded.

Looked at the next spot. Much more organized. Paddled out. No one around. Just me and him. Paddle out was tough. Not because of the waves but that inside treadmill effect. Had to off taken 30min to get out. Waves looked good! Nice wall, fast but not too fast. Lefts and rights. I just couldn't get out together. The ones i wanted i was never in position for. The ones that heaved and dumped i was. But I'm dealing with some bumps and bruises and gashes from a rough work week. Didn't feel confident taking off steep and deep. Not backside atleast. I caught a few but didn't actually ride anything good. Frustrated i got out. Checked the first spot again, still didn't look appetizing and super crowded. Went to check a third spot but they were charging to get in so i just went home.

I'm bummed because the waves were good. I was just having a off day. Which I'm really not all that bummed about. It happens. Iv been surfing long enough that iv gotten more picky. Not really picky, i just know what i like and what i don't like in a wave. And i wasn't getting what i like today. A younger me would be upset. But I'm ok with it and know there will be plenty other days. Tomorrow's not looking great but i might head out just to redeem myself a bit. Monday's looking fun. We will see. Now on to margaritas. Happy cinco de mayo

 

People still go to Raves?

 

Surfing is such a weird thing.

Woke up and saw calm winds and a 3ft@7sec swell. Wasn't expecting much but with low tide early and our new super shallow bars, i thought it was worth a look. Got to the beach early this AM, around 5. Checked my normal spot. Kinda disappointed. Looked knee high and junky. Saw a select few that might offer somthing so i decided to just go. Walking down the beach i asked myself "what am i doing?". It looked terrible.

Paddled out because i already peed in my suit and at the very least had to rinse. It was a freaking blast. Bigger than it looked. Thigh high, some bigger but not quite waist. Punchy. Real sectiony and racey though. But if you were patient and were in the right spot there were some really fun ones. Most were as follows. Get into it early. High line it for just a second then as it hit the bar and walled up, drop in and get at least one, maybe two swooping pumps in. (*side note. I love that feeling specifically on the mini sims quad. It's just a pump but on that board with a wall it feels so stylish and flowy and the speed that board generates is unreal. It's nothing major but a feeling i love) After that each wave was a little diffrent but most had a oncoming section to hit or float. I was having a blast. No one around. No one even checking it. I even got a pretty sweet head barrel. It was small but that lip was throwing. Took off late, crouched low and leaned my upper body/ head back. Not quite a barrel, but so much better than a head dip. Call it what you want but i got a nice view. And it was followed by a smack right in the sweet spot. For a small wave that looked junky, i was stoking out incredibly hard.

After a bit things seemed to be slowing down and i got out. On the walk back to my truck i saw some other locals and started chatting. Friendly guys i enjoy sharing waves with. Decided to paddle back out with them. It was cleaner and more organized but not as fun. Still a few sections to hit but the punch was fading and wasn't like before. Turns were more forced. Still had fun.

Got out and realized i just surfed for 3 hours and had a blast. On a day where i thought i was losing my mind for even considering going out. It's funny the way these things play out sometimes.

Looks like the upcoming week should have a bunch of fun days. And I'm already shot. Lots of paddling the past two days. My arms are going to fall off by the end of the week. These new shallow bars have some benefits, but that inside treadmill is a pain in the ass.