who here has been surfing this week?

Got out Fri and Sat am on my Soulrider-shaped bum drunk borte.

Fri am was super small like knee high, it was complete overcall forecast by both SL and SI, but it was fun enough. Got a few little left wedges before going into work. This borte has hp like rails, real knifey, but the wider outline and tail still allow me to get into the smallest of mushburgers. Kind of mind blown by it.

Sat am I went south and sarfed my brains out for a solid 3-4 hours. Good lefts and rights. During that sess I got a really good feeling for turning this thing hard off the back foot. Got one mini viss which is always fun. Need some more of that ^ in my life.

After said sat am session I took my carver to this skatepark with a really fun bowl. Surf-skated it for a solid 45 minutes all by my lonesome.

 

Surfed yesterday morning... rode the fish. A few fun ones early, but the wind a bit too much north in it. The bigger ones were not as affected by the wind, so it was fair to good-ish for the first hour or so, but when the tide started to fill in the size dropped, and so did the quality and fun factor.

Then later, around noon, the wind stopped, and there were some sweet, loggable waves rolling through again. Didn't go, but definitely could have. Went for a ride to check out a brewery on a farm... tried a bunch of different beer, and didn't regret missing the second sesh.

 

Wow what an amazing session I just had. I got out right at low tide, just after sunrise, it was chest - head and clean with light offshores, I rode the 6ft M-80 and 6’4” Flashback Fish, both we’re ripping, long lines made for shredding, so damn fun !

 

Today was fun, had it to myself for about 45 minutes lots of others hit the water after sun up... watch out for the others... chest to head high rode a walden 9-2 single fin wind got on it around 10 ish wore a rash and board shorts...

 

Flat up here, as per usual.

 

I literally choked on my coffee when I read that LOL!

 

SE swell filling in...light variable winds...looking like its game on for a dropping tide evening sesh!

 

Went surfing, mountain biking and kayaking this weekend. Life is good.

 

^^^Yea, brother...

 

Longboard day? #shallowwhensmall Southwest of Sibolga , too bad vacation is over

 

Fine. But did you get laid??

 

Went early Saturday. Very fun - bigger than it looked. However, that water is still brick cold (NJ). Tried my 4/3 without a hood. No hood was a mistake, but still had some good ones.

 

Saturday in RI was fun enough. No hood needed which was great.

 

After yesterday I figured there would still be some fun waves this morning so I only packed the Flashback Fish and crossed my fingers that there was enough left over to push me on it.

I got to the beach and it wasn't looking very big, small but longish lines coming in. It seemed a bit drained out and weak with the last hour or so of outgoing tide and breaking kinda close to shore right out front, but I saw some breaking a little further out down the beach so I drove 30 seconds to a dirt path and walked to where I figured it would be better. This spot always produces on small wave days when others are flat. I was thinking to myself, I wish I had brought the LB, but I still had some hope that I would be able to get some fun rides.

Sure enough, I paddled out and got plenty of waist high thumpers as the tide got closer to the low incoming switch. Some of them were weak but most had some juice behind them, especially the last wave of the session, it was a real speedster. I was able to get some turns in and a few snaps off the lip. Not bad for a Monday morning!

 

Man the water was so nice last night for the late afternoon and evening sesh...3 hours of Spring time fun. Bait fish everywhere, little to no wind, consistent surf, and positive vibes in the lineup.

Surfed with a few guys (4 including me). Is it just me or is it better when you are surfing with guys who 1. surf well 2. use proper line up skills 3. promote a positive vibe? It was like a well oiled machine...trading waves, calling in or the "go go go" to the bro next to you. Right at the end, a few Porpoise appeared on the outside in the glassy gray horizon...amazing what we get to experience in that realm!

 

Same. I would have been more comfortable with a hook, but it was do-able.

Some super fun ones this morning.

 

Saturday, after working around the house all day, noticed some small but clean waves on the cam, and needed some water time. Inspected several spots about an hour before sunset, small clean waves, no one in the water, but finally I persuaded myself to go in. So I chased knee slappers on the TY (that's for 'cuda), caught many before dark, not sure if it constitutes surfing, but pre worked off the 5/5 fajitas I was soon to consume. Nice end to a productive day at the homestead.

 

Is this old speak for getting high as fuk?

 

Went out mid-morning Saturday on the longboard and made the mistake of going no leash and no hood. Skipping either one would've been fine, but the one time I had to swim for the board was absolutely miserable and felt like my head was in a vice by the time I got there.

I do find I surf better without a leash... as much as I try to pretend I'm never wearing one, I'm a whole lot more likely to hang on through sections and recover when I lose my balance, and to kick out smoothly and grab my board, when there are actual stakes and a mistake means going for a swim. Especially when it's cold.

I pick my spots/times carefully though... would never go leashless if it's big or crowded, not gonna risk ruining my board or injuring someone (though I'll admit I've occasionally fantasized about paddling out at mid day on a thigh to waist high summer weekend day with 300 people in the water on the biggest, heaviest beater board I can find, with no leash, sitting all the way outside, catching a wave and casually stepping off and letting nature take its course... would never actually do that though).

Probably couldn't have gotten out anyway, but I totally missed it this morning. Had no idea we were supposed to get anything... can't recall if it was forecast a few days out and I just spaced or if this was a last minute/surprise swell but either way I dropped the ball. Oh well. Looked super fun on the cams. Hoping the wind doesn't totally kill it by this afternoon, but it seems likely.

 

Nothing wrong with fantasizing lol unless we live in a world like the movie Minority Report, then they would throw you in jail for a murder you had not yet committed, but have thought about.