who here has been surfing this week?

Might be able to do some street surfing if someone pulls me in a truck or something. Rain is out of control here.

 

This morning I packed the HPLB thinking i’d be lucky if I found a decent wave to ride with the forecast not looking that great. I left the house with low expectations.

Boy was I surprised when I paddled out and learned it was chest - head high and clean. There were storm clouds off in the distance sending a nice pulse of consistent swell.

Riding the LB in such conditions is so damn fun. This boart really comes to life with a decent wave behind it. The waves were breaking waaaay offshore on low incoming tide so it was a long paddle to get the big ones, but worth it.

The 1st wave I caught was from about 150 yards out, I rode it almost to shore and then got stuck on the treadmill on the paddle back out. Got out, walked back to where I started, then timed it and got back out no problem and then surfed for another 3.5hrs, non stop waves.

The wind was supposed to be a factor but most of the morning they were very light and conditions were glassy. There was a ENE / ESE swell mix going on so a variety of waves came through. Lefts and rights. Very fun session, still buzzing on the rides I had.

 

sebastian inlet was easily overhead and semi clean with little drift huge rolling sets

 

Fun 2+ hours on the mini simmons Delmarva this afternoon. Rain let up, wind cooperated, chunky swell that was groomed by good winds in the afternoon.

 

It did look fun this afternoon

 

I second Mitch's statement. It was a little slow between sets but overall fun.

 

Sunset cliffs , reefs are not 1/2 mile from the beach

 

Thats a half mile

 

Well, I got to go surfing yesterday! Yay! Got me a ride with a great surf buddy. The forecast was pretty awful . The buoy showed 3’ , 5 sec. and, thunderstorms predicted all day long. But go before you know usually works out, and it sure did this time. The lightning held off and the interval was a whopping 7”

It wasn’t as big as what Antoine and DP had up their way. But for about 90 minutes we had knee to waist high semi clean. The rain came and it glassed over nicely.add to it the occasional spinner shark leaping out of the water in the lineup and you have quite a beautiful spectacle.

The forecast kept most people at home or in church, leaving a small group of happy locals in the fun, no anxiety waves.

A bunch of dudes helped carry my gear and roll me to the water— so awesome! Surfers are amazing people

The rides were easy and fun, and I def got my keeper wave on the last ride. It seemed like a thigh high wave, and it was luckily a long left since I like backside rides best. The water was so beautiful to behold as it went on forever. Such a feeling of utter happiness and victory!


( I am Still trying to figure out how to get from the car to the water at dawn. They don’t make the beach wheelchair available until at least 8am. Looked at beach buggies on line. Could only find a $130 one, but the wheels don’t look like they would work in dry lumpy sand. It’s not meant for people but I am petite so.... what do you think? Please advise)

 

Love the stoke Betty.

I have seen vets that utilize electric wheel chairs with the tractor tread...probably expensive but those things look like they can go anywhere. Maybe there is a place to rent for the occasional use.

 

http://www.discovermymobility.com/s...MIx_u7hOOU2wIVAVqGCh3U_gi2EAQYByABEgL-q_D_BwE

Yea pretty expensive.

 

saturday the wind was out of the south it was overcast and rainy.
Went to sebastian inlet in a protected spot and rode my walden magic model 9.2.

It was semi clean and lined up nicely with head to overhead sets rolling through. My god some of the big bottom turns were so powerful , more than what I'm used to so it was like a kid being in a candy store.
One wave didn't workout so well and smacked me harder in the face than my mama ever did.

 

Fun little longboard waves in MA, no thunderstorms. I'll take it. Last week in Gloucester until fall when you can surf between 9-5 which sucks out loud.

 

the chop from the end of the week starting dying down, clean this morning at Folly. first dawn session from the new place, so i wanted to get a feel of how much time i got in the water. Clean, waist to chest with perfect lines. well worth the lil sleep had. took again the 6'9 loehr fish and had few lefts and rights, enough for down the line or a carve or two. lil drift to the west. def rideable on just about any board with the push on the low tide. might try for tomorrow as well if it's that good, as long as find my water watch tonight

 

Belmar yesterday afternoon after the ESA NortheEast Regionals contest ended. Wind went offshore and waves just kept getting better and better.

 

These are some of my best shots from during the contest.

 

Fun day all day yesterday. 230 to 4pm seemed to be when it all came together but the whole day was super fun.

 

Weird morning. Waist to chest high, clean. Looked great. Paddled out. First duck dive i dug the nose right into the shallow bar and got a wave to the mouth. Quite dumpy once out there. Lefts were not manageable. Rights were better, but you really had to pick and choose. The good ones that i got were great though. Punchy and fast. Just far and few between. Might of been user error as i was trying to avoid the crowd. The main peak did look more manageable. Although it's hard to tell since i thought the peak i was at looked good from shore. Who knows. Regardless, got a few fun ones before work and that's all i can ask for.

 

Any coconuts in that wave?