who here has been surfing this week?

Had two great sessions last two days. Clocked in about 6-7 hours. Yesterday was bumpy light onshore lefts down souf. But I got on a number of them that opened up on the inside for a few turns per wave.

Stayed norte today and boy did I score!!! Perfect chest high lefts. Got it at low incoming and they were wedging up before just running down beach. Got slotted twice and exited one through the doggy door.

Feeling frothy

 

It was goode here, too, although not as good as yesterday. Waist high stuff, surfed for about 4 hours. The water's too frickin cold for this time of year. I'm actually annoyed with it. It just feels like it shouldn't be this cold anymore.

 

Missed yesterday morning, but got some great LB waves before dark! Perfect lefts, peeling just right! About waist high with some bigger sets every so often.. only one out, beautiful sunset but crazy clouds and lightning to the north and south..

I agree, water is cold for this time of year- plus, also had to due with water temp, this time of years the fishing usually starts full bore bunker everywhere... but not yet here

 

Got out again yesterday afternoon on mid-outgoing tide... another fun session though a long lull in the middle of it where not much came through with any push behind it, making it difficult to do anything on the wave. But still a handful of fun rides at the start and end of the session. All told about 3.5 hours in the water within 24 hours between Monday evening and yesterday late morning and mid afternoon. All three sessions very fun... bunch of good rides, bunch of not so good rides, bunch of kooky wipeouts, bunch of waves on the head (those were all in monday's session)... it's all goode.

Toes were a little numb by the end yesterday afternoon, but I've no real complaints with the water temp either. I guess it's colder than usual? But I'm wearing a 3/2 with no boots and pretty much comfortable, and that's what I'd expect to be wearing this time of year (never in boardshorts till late june at the earliest... well except when i was a broke HS student who only owned a 5/4/3 and would wear boardshorts in 53 degree water in may), so I'm cool with it.

 

Surfed head high slop yesterday...now back to golf.

 

Checked it at sunrise and it was flat. Might be a LB wave before dark today, we shall see.

 

Really fun today. Checked it at 4 AM. Honestly kinda looked ehhh but i was already up. Checked a near by spot. Flat. Went back to first spot. Took my time getting ready but was still in the water before 5. Rode the mini, leashless.

It was pretty damn good. Hard to tell in dark. Waist high on sets, some rouges were pushing stomach. Super clean with the light offshores. Lefts and rights. Was a little strange because it was a mixed bag. Some were softer, some were straight up steep and walling up. Caught a ton of fun ones. Right in front of those rocks i talked about yesterday. Made me secound guess leashless but nothing bad happened.

 

Weent out again, at lower tide than yesterday. Still sloppy, but head high and a good source to burn calories.
Other than that

 

Shots from Monday evening. Fun sesh. Conditions continued to improve the entire evening. I tripled my good wave count in the last 45 minutes. Got out of the water at 9:20pm lol. The long hours of daylight are awesome.

 

Finally had the opportunity to go surfing today, and a mini swell popped up but the tide killed it at mid day when I could make it out, so I waited and waited and then the Pier cam showed it was feeling bottom but there was mad lightning strikes late afternoon, then it finally cleared out and the tide dropped just a bit, but the wind switched side shore and picked up but I said fuck it and went straight to the epicenter of surf - Da Juno Pier.

It was solid knee to thigh high and wonky only one guy out on a LBand a Dad and his grom who were enjoying the inside. It built to thigh to occasional waist high and lo and behold I got numerous long long long dribblers which were soooo much fun since its been flat like my high school girlfriend since Memorial Day.

The wannna be new locals don't know me (I just moved 5 minutes away so they will) and were giving me the stink eye or just avoiding all eye contact, no nod or acknowledgment, then one tried to back paddle me and I almost hit his board with my old beater as I paddled past him without making eye contact to regain peak positioning just because. Him and his buddy finally backed off and let me have my turn and that's how it stayed, I didn't hassle them for waves and they left me alone when it was my turn and I was in the spot.

There was some random chick dropping in on the grom and his Dad and was yelling at the top of her lungs that she didn't have to wait anymore for anyone anywhere. Not really.

Life is goode!

 

I haven't even considered shedding boots yet haha. Even when I was young and could trunk it in 65 degree water temps (has to be at least 68 now and air temps in the mid-70's or higher) I couldn't surf with no boots below 60 degrees. My toes would cramp up!

Damn, dude! 53 degrees and shorts? Haha I would only do that on a dare!

 

Wouldn't say it was a regular occurrence, but I have vivid memories of being home from college on hot days in mid may and struggling with the decision to sweat my dick off in a 5/4/3 (and this was circa 2001, when they were considerably thicker and less flexible than today... and the one I had was zipperless, neck entry... used to not-so-endearingly refer to putting it on or taking it off as "wrestling the alligator") or absolutely freeze in bortshorts and a rashguart. Did both a few times. Vividly remember one particular session where I chose the latter when the water was 52 or 53 and I stayed out for at least an hour. I was pretty fat in those days so that helped, I'd also always much rather be too cold than too hot (probably as a result of the aforementioned being far for much of my childhood... okay, fine, adult life too).

Also vividly remember at least one late may session in the 5mil with mid-80s air temps (quite possibly the one after the boardshorts one). Not sure which sucked more. At some point later in college I scraped together $99 for the cheapest 3/2 I could find, but it had large holes in it by about the third session in it (go figure). At some point I also picked up a 1 mil top to wear with boardshorts, that was a much better <$100 investment, I actually still have and wear the same one today (though it's on its last legs), but the session I'm thinking of was absolutely before I bought either of those.

Writing this post reminded me that I meant to order a new 3/2 first thing when I got to work today. Gonna go do that right now... it's nice not being flat fucking broke anymore.

 

Yesterdays pop up mini swell seems like a mirage. I woke up before the sun today and it was sooooo flat. I think it's gonna flatline down here in the dirty souff till the tropics go off, early August this year seems to be the call. Calling it - Day 1.

 

It must of been a mirage cause it was flat yesterday morning and this morning here. I almost went to the beach before dark but ended up mowing the lawn just before a thunderstorm hit. I almost left the house to go check it afterwards. The buoy had a slight uptick at that time but it didn’t entice me enough. I just didn’t feel like being skunked twice in one day lol Glad you found a wave though.

 

I surfed Thursday since I found a couple of my crew without work responsibilities to drive me to the beach and pull my wheelchair and my gear to the water’s edge. No crowds since it was mid week.


Were the waves outstanding? Nope. They were ankle to thigh high clean, turquoise, gleaming and catching the sunlight from the bright rising sun. What a glorious paddle out with the incoming gentle waves!

With these smaller waves, they break awfully shallow. My legs will unpredictably collapse on the board, pitching me forward at times, which isn't a problem if the water has depth. But its a potential problem in the shallows. So, to solve that, I surfed lying down, after the first collapse and near serious injury.

But dudes! it is still fun lying down! You still get to go along the face of the wave and be part of the ocean! And doing it with fellow locals midweek has a special touch as well. I am grateful to all the dudes that make this possible!

—-Forecaster Bettye

 

Flat this morning, so I went for a paddle on my longbaord, with one of my friends (yes, I have friends). Water is still 55*F, kinda cool I think, for June.

 

Liar

 

It’s still flat here so I went for a walk / run over the bridge just after sunrise with my wife.

Great weather, sunshine, lots of wild life, we saw a huge school of sting ray swimming by when we were at the top of the bridge. There was dolphin doing their thing, a manatee with barnacles on it was hanging out, all kinds of birds diving for fish. Nice start to the day!

 

Day 3 - Ocean swim. Dirty water but cool - 77 degrees - and refreshing. Kinda scary it was so murky due to the rains, but needed to get wet and the lap pools are 90 degrees so its like swimming in thick air. No bueno. Gargled with whiskey after, and put white vinegar in the ears. Tomorrow I'll go for a long paddle and keep my head out of the slime.

 

I jumped in the water last night... your right, water seems really cold for June! Usually it's approaching 60, but seemed like it actually got colder yesterday, maybe mid to low 50s at the spot I went to..

I shoulda went to Belmar, where the water is always a balmy 65 during the 'off season', thanks to the laboradors

#surfingseason