who here has been surfing this week?

Went out today with low expectations, with ankle slappers to knee high on tap, but it was 8 sec period so there was some organization to it. My gal and I reconned a sandbar that was working great with the small waves and ended up having ourselves a ball for a few hours. We both caught some fun little peelers, some right to the sand.

Could always have it be bigger, but it’s chill just messing around in the smaller stuff. I get to try shuvits and do other funky stuff I wouldn’t normally do.

 

Yesterday we went surfing in ankle to thigh high waves, clean to glassy summer perfections. The rideable thigh high waves were outside the cam and the buoy showed only 1.0’ 8” windswell, which might be why it was less than 12 locals trading waves and swapping stories.

It was a perfect Florida day with 85F air and a refreshing 78F ocean. (And yet the beach was empty of swimmers and skin cancer seekers.)

There was enough wave gravity allowing me to pop up several times. One ride almost felt like my old self with relaxed stance, and a good turn without losing balance...The super experienced oldtimers guys had fun doing goofy tricks! (And they also helped my crew carry my gear and roll me to and from the ocean. Such great dudes!). I was even able to sit on the board once instead of waiting lying down— I had really missed that view of the incoming!


Yesterday, I was saying to a friend why did I wait a half century to start surfing!? He said, “You’ve always been a surfer, you just didn’t know it”...love that!

 

I surfed 1 foot waves on a 10 foot 50-50 and am pretty stoked. Warm! Finally.

 

Sand recon

 

Flat, on Saturday, Sunday, and this Monday morning as well.
Long bicycle ride today; then the gym.

 

Saturday was a good day of riding. Went for the late morning rise to hi tide. Washout was packed with the reg wknd surf comp n plenty of ppl seeing the chance to catch some on surfing day. i tried to branch out to the end near the showers where it was a lil more manageable to be not in the thick of traffik. took the LB, waist to chest n glassy. some small lines to peak at. long rides tho. great day in the sun n was contemplating staying longer, not sure if that was right decision to leave the beach but thought it was depleting since hi tide. got some small lil knicks i need to suncure. not really anything to crave in the forecast for the next week or so

 

Crowded yesterday. A lot of ultra frustrated locals yelling at the uninitiated to move down the beach, which most did. Some tried to ignore it until confronted, and eventually moved away.

got a couple fun ones but the scene was pretty ugly, took me back to mid-70's Sunset Cliffs or Windansea. I'd rather it quiet down a bit, all the anger kind of sucks the stoke out of a session...even if it's not directed at you.

 

Negativity from others when trying to ride your surfing bort can be a real downer. I'm going to try a DP tomorrow as it looks like it is the only time that looks even remotely ride-able for the next week.

 

Perfect clean waist high lines with occasional bigger rollers this morning. A few extra people out at the normal spot but able to stay away from the crowd with peaks to myself and one other regular. Always baffles me why guys cluster when there's other peaks 50 yards down. Feel bad for anyone in the area that missed it today

 

Their clustering is a function of their homosexuality. Not that there is anything wrong with it....

 

I always get stoked when someone on the Gulf scores, nobody else should be bitching about how flat it gets lol. Good on ya Panhandle

 

Yeah, it can be pretty dismal for stretches, but when it comes alive from time to time, it can be really nice. Fill the time with fishing or springs with the kids and trips to the EC. Wife is taking me to the EC this weekend for the 40th b-day. Dropping the kids at the grands, she's taking an umbrella, books and relaxing. I'm taking an LB, a fish and get to surf without worrying about her chasing our two boys around, getting stressed. Its only calling for 2-3 ft, but aside from today, its a welcome change. I plan to take full advantage of the time, surf, drink, eat, fvck, repeat. Only 3 days, its hard to get time off this time of year, but scored sweet rates at a sister hotel on the beach over there

 

Took the longbort out to a few different spots today. Probably surfed a combined 5 hours. Very small stuff, but it was good to get out. Water is still a bit cold. VERY cold for this time of year. It was a pretty hot day, too.

Have only surfed like 3 times this month, maybe 4? I usually use this thread to post when I surf, then I can go back and use it as a reference, but I know I missed posting about surfing last Wednesday or Thursday. I don't even remember what day it was anymore. Last June was so much better than this one, as far as surfing goes. Too flat this month!

 

Yeah it’s the worst Summer in a few years so far. The last “good day” of waves was Memorial Day I believe, ever since it’s been flat - barely rideable.

 

Got out yesterday morning before work with a buddy. Took the Simmons. It was the right call. Knee to thigh and a few waist sets. Really groomed S swell lines. It was nothing fancy, but I got some rides that lined up a ways.

Been going leashless for a while now. The freedom effect is liberating.

 

I'd have to think about it up here, but it's absolutely the complete opposite of last June, which was pretty good. And May was actually not too bad this year, but June has been blue balls. Another flat day.

I'm also wondering if the bouy is shot, because the water temperature has been stuck on 55 degrees for Monmouth County almost the entire month so far! It's usually up into the low 60's by this time of year. This is almost a record, if it doesn't hit 65 in the next week and chances are it almost undoubtedly will not.

 

id figure it should be warming up quick with this hot weather.idk i havnt even checked the forecast in a week.its hibernation time lol

 

Getting my hopes up about Saturday but come Friday night, I'm sure the SI algorithm will revise and crush my hopes for surfing in the rain.

 

Yeah last June had small but consistent waves if I recall

 

Flaaaaaaat! I went for a long distance paddle on the LB today. No waves but the water felt great, cooler that it has been.