who here has been surfing this week?

Really fun morning. About waist high. Lower tide so waves were standing up some. Chose the 5'8 because of the low tide. Was really fun although the mini could of worked to. The left's had more wall, faster, and overall more rippable...but were shorter. The rights were a bit more mellow but longer. Still enough juice on the rights to get some good feeling cutbacks with the rebound. Lefts were all about that backhand top turn. I actually got two little barrels on the left's. Ok ok.... they weren't really barrels. It was more of a chandelier, but open enough to get your head covered and get that vision.

Just a fun day. Waves, vibe, weather... it was all pleasant. Crowd did get sort of thick but people are lazy and didn't work too stay on the peak. So it worked out nicely. After the work week, yesterday's waves, yesterday's work day (that was a tough one), and today's sesh.... I'm beyond shot. I need a whole day to sleep. But i won't. Gotta renew the passport for my costa trip then I'm thinking IPAs and some bar food at the place across the street from me.

 

You can sleep when you’re dead! Must. Keep. Going.

 

Hahaha its funny you say that. Im always waking up early, surfing, working, then going to shows or doing whatever it is i do. People always ask me how or why. My answer is always exactly that. I'll sleep when I'm dead

 

I guess you missed my other uploads.

 

And if you keep on "burning the candle at both ends", you will be dead very soon!!
Get some rest in-between all your activities. Suggested with only the best of intentions......

 

o Barry

 

Surfed RI for 3 hours this morning. Trunks and rash guard temps are here to stay along with the seaweed. Fun little waves, but nothing like yesterday. I hope Toonces, etc... got out as the cams looked like a lot of fun. Left when the beach crowd started to filter into the surf area.

 

I appreciate the advice. Really. But I take waaaaay better care of myself, other than my lack of sleep, than most who get adequate sleep. Plus id rather die knowing i lived my life fast and hard and fun then to die feeling like i wasted time sleeping.

 

Surfed little waves today. First time in over a year due to injury of hip. Three months since hip replacement and I'm back M Fer's! Felt like sex ducking under thigh high rollers. Caught a couple fun little rides. Stoked even for a couple little rides. Arms a little sore stoke is strong!

 

Welcome back dude!

 

10 days in Buxton on the beach starts wednesday.

 

Trunks in Rhode Island? I'm struggling to trunk it in Monmouth County, New Jersey. When I was a bit younger (only like 6-7 years ago), I would trunk it around 65 degree water temps, as long as the air was a little bit warmer than that. It probably takes until 68 or so now! Maybe even 70!

 

Had a really great day surfing Friday. Chest high waves, a couple shoulder high waves. It was the best day of the last 6 weeks or so, but it was on a Friday, which sucks because that's when people start packing the beaches around here! I had a very brief one hour session on Saturday morning, which was also fun. Had other engagements for most of the day on Saturday, so I could only surf for an hour. Nice chest high, clean waves that day.

Waiting for something later in the week, if not just Longbortable.

 

Wimp!!

 

Keep on chargin', LazE! Good to have you back.

Got out only twice last week, but sure was nice: before work and during lunch, waist high-plus and clean. Water now quickly closing on 80, I think. Weather-wise, sunny and in the 90s during the day. Use that sunscreen!
Fri AM the Navy was out off Dam Neck doing some distance swimming. Must've been about 30 sailors swimming by us while we were out there. It was part of a physical fitness event put on by the base.

Sun AM, took wife and daughter to the beach. No surfing but helped our special needs daughter become more used to being in the ocean. She's 21 and had her trache closed last spring. She's now taking swim lessons and doing a lot of things she couldn't do before.

 

That’s great news DosXX.

 

not much to go on this past wknd. got day drunk Saturday, buddy called to relive some surfing glory that evening - he too was day drinking apparently. caught some knee to thi slop by the pier in a pretty touristy filled area. didn't hit any of them, and got a good bit of LB waves for the couple hours surprisingly. stayed for the after beers session, had to taxi it back the next morning. forecast is looking good for 4th, guess it's gonna be a beach day

 

It's only 10 AM here and it's hot as fock on this work site. I needed to come into the trailer to cool off. We may go Latin America today and shut down at 2:00. We started at 6 so it works out. Based on what I saw on Friday, I'm staying in PA until Sunday including heading up to the big woods to do some Largemouth bass fishing. It sucks that I cannot stand being anywhere near the beach on the 4th of July. THERE ARE WAAAYY TOO MANY STUPID PEOPLE.

 

I hadn't surfed since before Memorial Day. Summer flatness has hit early and hard in the Bahamian shadow. Up-coast hasn't been all that much better. On Friday morning I watched a dozen folks catching waves on the cam at the secret inlet. Despite the marginal forecast I decided to roll the dice, take Betty's long standing advise of "Go before you know" and make the drive up Saturday morning.

I arrived to find some clean knee to thigh high liners and a moderate crowd. Not epic but definitely surfable. Occasionally there would be a 1 to 3 wave bomb set in the waist high range. Water was clear and refreshingly cooler than I expected. Plenty of people out but it never kept me from getting any wave I wanted.

Besides the surf, it was great to see Betty and many of her crew again plus some of the locals I've gotten to know there. Despite her physical limitations, Betty was charging the waves and making the best of each ride. Seeing that big smile on her face while she is out on her boarte is worth the two hour drive up. Betty is obviously a child of the ocean.

By noon the waves were dying and it had become impossible to surf without having to dodge little kids and other oblivious swimmers on the inside. Time to go and head back to Flatville. I'm already tired of summer and can't wait for the first cold front some time in October. I suppose I'll survive the next few months with a few more trips north before we start getting some waves down here. I do hope it's not over a month before I surf againe.

I feel sorry for people that don't surf.

 

Rode the Hobie again yesterday morning. Some lined up knee to thigh high waves. Off shore wind, hot, plenty of lefts and rights and no crowd. I can’t complain. My lady photog decided to surf instead of shoot. I didn’t mind. We had a blast owning the lineup together for a few hours. So no shots yet, but maybe she’ll hook it up on the 4th.

This borte ignited my stoke for logging again. I’m still a fan of my simmons in small stuff, but on certain waves a log just can’t be beat. There’s also something soulful about riding a wave machine from 1968...