Took the kid out for a sesh on the lb soft top this am.. actually really fun. Only knee/ thigh high but lined up well... Definitely the most juice I’ve paddled into with the kid. So much fun with him laughing and screaming down the line... Looked like crap when I go home in the afternoon
I went out this afternoon. It was meh. If the winds were to have cooperated it probably would have been fun. I’m not putting too much stock in tmrw with high tide, but ya never know.
Home break is Dam Neck...Navy base in VA Beach. Normally, the water doesn't reach 80 here until the latter part of summer. It hit 80 here late last month.
11AM sesh yesterday at Dam Neck. Mostly waist high with a few chest high sets. Some good peelers rolling in...not all that common here. Then came low tide, shallow water over the sand bars near the radar test site, and quick close-outs. That ended the sesh for me. Back to the office. No need to wreck the long board again in that stuff. I have the soft top for that.
Hoping to sneak out for a few today. We have a 1 week old baby who is limiting my surf style. J/k hopefully he likes surfing and will be my surf buddy when he’s old enough. My beautiful understanding wife let me out 2/4 days to get some waves and I’m super grateful cause these july waves have been great! Walking the balance between surfing and being a good husband and dad. New territory for me.
The wave gods delivered this morning. I paddled out before sunrise and caught the last 90 minutes of the incoming high tide and then another 30 minutes after. I have been hitting the same spot all week on my Flashback Fish. As fun as the last couple days have been this morning was even better IMO. Chest high plus on the sets, glassy, punchy steep walls on the inside. Lots of backside rights with the rising ESE swell, but there were still a few lefts to be had with the lingering NE swell mixed in. I have been sitting right over this patch of reef and it's been working like a machine, breaks in the same spot every time. These weren't 100 yard runners or anything, but a good 50-75 yards, drop in bottom turn, schwack the lip, drop back in pump pump pump, and hit the lip again before it shuts down, throwing as many buckets as possible. After 3 days at the same spot on the same boart with each day being better than the last, I feel dialed in and surfing as good or better than I ever have. So stoked about that!
Spent a few weekends in Norfolk Naval base - watching the Bull Frog do his thang with all his Bros... and they were surfers too
The rewards of working hard to maintain that balance??? Priceless. Wait until that little tyke Gets old enough to show you how much love grows... you be a very happy and blessed Daddy
What's happening Dudes and Dudettes? Like that the thread keeps on man. The spirit stays true to the roots of it all. Been working near some of my favorite spots on my island for a while now and getting a surf in when all things line up. Last few days I got early morning bliss at a great rock reef. It was a hike to get there but it was a nice hike despite carrying a log. Long board waves. Waist to chest. Lefts and rights. Breaking far out so the rides were long. Fading back on the drop, turning into the face and up on the nose. Keeping momentum through the flat section to let it reform for act 2. It's been nice to be in trunks and not having to pack a suit. Crowd was light in population and attitude. See you all later down the trail, PJ
Cause it’s a fun thread with no BS. And surfers love to talk surfing and we all live vicariously through each other - I know I’m surfing PeaJays break in my head right now
Sweeeeeeet peajay! Today was kinda funny. I checked it early, in the dark. Didn't look great. Not that it looked bad. Just didn't look as big as i was expecting. Buoy was reading somewhere between 3or 4feet though at 10 seconds. I was puzzled. Paddled out in the dark. Man was i surprised. Chest to shoulder high and it had juuuuuuuice! Usually don't paddle out in the dark with conditions like that. And honestly i didn't think i was haha. Caught a bunch of good ones before work. The left's were closing out more, but every once in a while you'd get a makeable but racey one. The rights were a bit more mellow, great shape, and with the juice it was perfect for big carves. My most memorable wave was a right. Dropped in and got the speed up, then went into a mix between a cutback and check turn down carve sort of thing. I was going for the cutback but changed my track mid turn. I don't know what to call it but it was a solid carve and i came out of it with tons of speed, then went into a proper roundhouse. Got crowded but only a few guys really surfing. Cool vibe out there. I made sure to catch a few for my friend who passed away. I know he'd be stoking hard, and i know i am. Im really happy we got waves this week as a sort of send off for him. Sounds silly but it's the truth. Looking like two more days of waves. Much smaller, but if that period sticks around it should be fun. Who am i fooling, it'll be fun even if that period doesn't stick around. Glad everyone is having fun out there!
DP, how is the water quality up there. Had a buddy surf the outgoing tide on Tuesday and now he thinks he has a staph infection Carve one up for the homies!
Good to hear, luckily you are far enough north to not have to deal with the shit water they send from lake okeechobee
Yeah I don’t think we are being affected by that. Water has been slightly murky with some weeds floating around but nothing too bad.