who here has been surfing this week?

The surf at that spot is and has always been good. It already has a coquina rock reef and is one of the best spots in FL. I’m not sure the added reef has done anything to the surf from what I can tell and I surf that spot regulary. It seems the same as it’s ever been honestly.

 

Speaking of, surf was pretty weak this morning, knee / thigh high with the occasional waist high "set" wave. It didn't have much juice behind it and was more or less like jerking off with the wrong hand.

 

Actually feeling kind of drained. Surfed three consecutive days, three hour sessions each. Fun weekend.

Lot of time spent on my simmons lately, giving me the opportunity to learn all of her intricacies. The glide of a simmons really attracts me. My Hobie twin heels are a perfect match. You kind of let the wave dictate your next move and don’t have to try so hard. Just go with the flow.

 

Me too. I feel like I'm surfing on a frisbee... kind of floating above the water.

 

Local surf forecast has it at 2.5-3 at 10 seconds at the buoy which translates into chest high headhigh with nice spacing .... and this is what you see hahahahah
Looks like I’m not surfing again....

 

Bloody depressing...

 

Last week was crazy. Didn't realize i was surfing everyday since last Saturday with the exception of Tuesday. Between surf, work, the heat at work.....i was beat. Friday i read up at 330, surfed, ran straight to a hotel, had a wedding that night. No stopping or rest. Just go go go go. Went to bed around midnight and was up at 330 again Saturday. Left the hotel and ran to the beach to surf. Was onshore but light waist to tummy high. Some lined up. Some didn't but at least offered a quick section or stayed open long enough to come off the bottom and hit the closeout. I had fun. Slept for 16 hours that night. Not like me to sleep so much but i needed it.

Took Sunday off. No waves. Went to a festival instead. Saw Devon allman (greg's son), little feat, hot tuna, and dickey betts. On the way home i randomly checked winds. Saw potential for today. So once again i got little sleep. It wasn't great. But any water time is a good thing. Thigh high, light onshores. Little runners. Nothing special but somthing to surf.

Now back to catching up on sleep and getting ready for Wednesday/Thursday!

 

Nothing that an early morning sesh and a few waves won't cure.
Nice, warm, overcast morning with semi-glassy conditions...clean, thigh-high, and longboard-able.

 

Oh, to be young again...

 

I have surfed the last 10 days consecutive, all 2hr DP sessions during the week, and 3-4hr DP sessions on weekends, pretty suite considering June was a total bust. That streak comes to an end tomorrow I’m afraid but it will probably pick back up a little Wednesday or Thursday.

 

She must of been sore after 4 hours of DP.

 

Tried to grab a few after work... caught one cheesy little rightie and BAM! High winds, torrential rain and lightning... and THEN the thigh highs started rolling in lol
No sitting in the truck waiting it out... and man does my wetsuit smell wet

 

I caught a some knee - thigh highs on the LB this morning just before and after low tide. There is a lot of South in the swell so I went North to my small wave spot and it worked for the most part. I'm ready for another swell with some juice!

 

Pretty stoked on the sesh this morning. Was thigh to waist high. Clean as hell with the offshore breeze. Low tide. Could of rode the mini but decided on the 5'8 because of the low tide. Either would work but I'm glad i went with the 5'8, but I'll get to that.

Had it to myself for the first 30min. Then it got pretty crowded. About 10-15 guys in the water. There are two peaks, i sort of sat in the middle and kept grabbing these sets that would sneak inbetween the two peaks. Wave had a weird pace to it. Steep on the takeoff but would lose alot of its juice inside. The full roundhouse cutbacks weren't working for me. To pull it off and draw that line out had to get way to far out in front of it and was losing alot off speed. And the same issue with trying to hit a section. Id eye it up and feel good about it, then it would just go weak on me. Those are my two go to turns. So what happened was i started getting comfortable with a turn i don't normally use on the reg, but i ws having a blast with it. Don't know what you'd call it. The WSL would call it a "wrap in the pocket". Whatever. Depending on the wave it was either more of a carving turn or on some i was able to slide the tail a bit. Take off and take that high line, give the wave a second to stand up, drop in and pull the turn off right in the pocket where all the juice was. Had a blast messing with it and throwing diffrent little variations in depending on the wave. Definitely going to start mixing it into my arsenal instead of sticking with my go tos. Got to get out of your comfort zone sometimes.

Had a great time, looks similar tomorrow. Stoked

 

Another added bonus to today's sesh....

So when i was alone for the first 30 min i got a little sketched out. Somthing was moving in the water, at one point right towards me from a couple feet away. Im in the water all the time. This wasn't the normal everyday fish we see here. It was strange. But the waves quickly took my mind off it. Later in the sesh my buddy said he saw somthing. Said definitely not a dolphin, and was a bit hesitant but was thinking it was a shark. I sort of brushed it off as he's seeing things. Just found out around noon today the were two shark attacks just a little east of me. Coincidence? Maybe. Maybe not. They sound like they were small sharks and no major injuries. But still. We're not used to that kind of stuff like you FL guys.

 

We had two attacks within walking distance of each other over the weekend! One guy was just sitting on his boart in knee deep water and a nurse shark bit his foot and he had to go to the hospital to get surgery and shit. We all roll the dice every time we paddle out, just hope it's something minor when it finally does happen.

 

Saw that two people were bitten on Fire Island. One walked to get help. Sounds like the typical Fla. shark story that requires 2-5 stitches. Musta been that great white they tagged. Betty?
Blew off teaching summer school today to catch a 3 hr session west of you. July is def been good to us LIers.

 

Didn't surf today as planned. My dog is sick. I'm giving him chicken broth and pedialyte. He seems to be on the mend. Maybe a late Saturday paddle out if the winds lay off and the rain stops.

 

Hey man my dog is going through a rough patch as well..

 

Sorry to ding the awesome thread gang - keep it rolling. Just needed to talk