who here has been surfing this week?

Got out again today. Man, 2 or 3 weeks of going out everyday except for a few days here and there.... shot. Was going to pass on today as it wasn't looking like it would measure up to as much fun as the past few days. But i went anyway. Upcoming week isn't looking good so figured I'd get as much as i can before the streak stops.

Thigh high, mid tide, winds weren't offshore but they were calm as can be. They were fun little cruisers. The lack of offshore wind grooming them made things a little wonky but the faces were clean. It was a patience sesh. Pick the right one sort of thing. If you did you caught one that would line up and peel to shore. Even the ones that sectioned off weren't bad. Glad i got out. Bummed about the first ding on my mini. Never worked with epoxy before. Going to have to get some resin and repair that bad boy while there's nothing worth surfing.

 

I did not surf yesterday for the first time in... a long time. Actually got something done in the garage!

 

Save some waves for others YO! You’ve probably changed the shape of the sandbar with your fins you surfed so much lol

 

This morning I checked at the reef spot and it was looking flat, so I drove a little North to the small wave spot and it was looking flat. I decided since I drove all the way there I might as well make my time useful and I went for a walk / jog on the beach to do some sand reconne along the way.

I made it about 400 yards down the beach and spotted a nice little sandbar that appeared to be working, it was spitting out some rights that I knew I could ride so I ran back to the car, got my LB (no leash) and hurried back to the sand bar i found. I managed to snag a dozen or so fun knee - thigh rides in an hour and one of them may have been a waist high slider. That's why we do sand reconne!

 

Surfed waistish high waves yesterday with new metal hip yesterday. Gawd it felt good. Sore today but well worth it . Should be ready for hurricane season! Charge mofo!

 

The small wave spot had a fun little wave coming in this morning on mid - low outgoing tide around sunrise.

I took the LB out and caught wave after wave after wave in the knee - thigh range for the first hour, then as the tide dropped it became more like thigh - waist high and consistent for the next 2+ hours.

Light - Moderate offshore wind out of the SW grooming the surf and adding a minor fishnet texture to the surface. Partly cloudy skies with multiple layers to the atmosphere, making for a colorful and diverse sky, almost like an oil painting by a gifted artist.

I found a nice little sand bar off the beaten path all by myself. I caught mostly rights due to the ESE / SE swell mix but there were a few lefts to be had as well. The rights would peel up the beach and I could crouch and grab a rail and hold on till it would close out in knee deep water.

Sometimes I would get a little cover up before getting slammed on the bottom. Other times I would take the high line and finish with a floater.

The lefts allowed me to drag and hand, crouch and get face to face with the wave, then stand back up and cut back as the wave would begin to shut down, then ride the reform until it fizzled out.

I brought my ankle leash but felt self conscious about wearing it so I left it in the vehicle. Real LB’rs don’t wear ankle leashes I’m told.

July has been a lot like what last June was like, small but consistent surf. It’s like the cycle got pushed up a month. When will we get HH-OH surf though?

 

NICE!! What kind of hip did you do? I have two of the Corin sports hips - got the left done last January and I was up and playing net and surfing by mid April and Man was it a difference with TWO working hips! Just keep charging Bro’ - you’ve got some non - suffering time to make up!

 

This is killing me... it’s been like this for over a MONTH. May be heading up to Hampton beach for my anniversary - hopefully see something up there ...

 

Finally went offshore...some nice little barrels shaping up. Should be a good sesh...stoked to see some decent waves.

 

Went for a paddle this morning on the north shore MA - fun little rides, crystal clear water and no wetsuit needed. No more wetsuits until mid-September which is great. Too bad about the lack of waves.

Tomorrow has waterspout warnings in RI so perhaps I'll sit that one out. I was hoping for a little surf in sheltered areas but not in a thunderstorm.

 

Whereabouts do you call waves Jay?

 

That’s one of the nice things about this time of year around this place, the water is super
Clear. I love the late afternoons that make it look coke bottle green. And i will be wearing a suit tomorrow but only a 3/2 and only cause it’s gonna be raining all day... but waves l! Glorious waves! I’m like a kid before Christmas lol

 

This guy has...

 

Beautiful A-frames today at Surf City, NC and scored many good rides; got out early this morning; goofy-footed but was able to get good rights, too. The Dark Side: The rip current reared its ugly head today and pulled two high school boys well outside....they were yelling for help so I paddled over and got them to wrap around the front of the board while I slowly paddled them in. Took me 10 minutes due to the weight but I got them to the beach; the older boy could hardly stand from the exertion and it was then I realized how fortunate we all were to be so close to them when they got deposited out the back. Their mother was grateful. What a day all the way around!

 

South nags head today. Thumping little waves today. Was pretty good. Stiff WSW wind cleaned it up and surfed hard today.

 

Rodanthe was pretty good too today.

 

4:30 Barry getting ready to surf
6:30 Mr.Belmar trying to regulate Belmar

 

I like your attitude. Waves haven't been great here either, but take enjoyment from what you have. Just getting out on the water in the early morning can be special in itself. Sometimes I have to remind myself of that when it's a long wait between knee high sets.

 

You're a hero, man. Good job!

 

Where was this at, Surf City Pier? Yesterday was super busy! I checked it in the morning and it just looked kinda weird and unorganized so the wife and I went out and had a real breakfast then checked it again after about 2 hours of incoming tide and it looked much better. She snagged a few shots before retiring to a couple of beers. Super fun day though....solid chest high and some really pretty waves. Should have some good size all week but really windy.