Opinions are like assholes everybody's got 1. A 180 is a life saving skill if not your own maybe that of a drop-in Kook! Pump I would have agreed with you in my fortys but getting close to Sixty I like the extra time a log allows. IE early takeoffs.
Mehhh, there’s always a few who think like you and like to get rises out of people with bullshit names and trash talk so I get it... and I don’t take offense. Been chirped by better - and seems to me a whole lot of others here agree with my choice and reasons and gave me great advice so I’m happy. And also seems that I’m doing ok here whether people think I’m a cool cat or a kook so I’m enjoying the kid gloves. And btw, I do pretty well on those LBs I love - just looking to improve my game.
Got your attention sorry I ruffled your feathers! The magic of surfing is inside us not the boards we ride!
Some of the closet friends I’ve ever had and some of the best aqaintences I ever made were people that “ruffled” my feathers Dog, and some of the most important things Ive ever learned came from some of those moments. And I can’t agree more with that sentiment - it’s a personal journey for me and I need to tools to attain it, that’s all. And I surfed a bunch of thigh highs tonight and I carved the SNOT out of them on my 8’4” mini mal like a kook on crack lol Mahalo
This is sort of off topic. Sort of not. But here's some advice Mr. And i know DP will agree with me on this as well as others. We've had this discussion before. But finding a LB definitely helped my SB game. As well as riding a SB single fin for awhile. With me being short and 140 pounds, learning the weight shifts and what not to really turn a LB was a little difficult. My first true round house cutback was on a LB. A SB "fits" my body better. But those weight shift lessons were already learned. Making it click for me on a SB super fast. Instead of having to take 2 cross steps back to get on the tail, I'm already there. And the lesson of being ON the tail was already learned. Being just a few inches north really hinders your ability to make tight turns. Same with the single fin SB. It had such a delayed reaction time compared to a thruster. It really taught me to read the wave and anticipate, which definitely helped me improve. My point is this. Ride everything. Diffrent feelings under your feet will always leave you coming away with a new approach or just a diffrent outlook on how to ride a wave. When you ride a LB, don't just think of it as a small wave board or somthing just to cruise on. Get on that tail and whip it around, cross step up and get on the gas. Learn the nuances. It'll help in the long run.
And one last thought. Im the type of guy that thinks certain boards should be ridden certain ways. That's why i ride a SB alot. Id ride a LB and would see a section and my brain automatically says "hit it". Sometimes it worked, some times not. And like i said it helped me improve in the long run. But iv always had that SB mentality. But that's just me. Preference. If you want to ride a LB like a SB and can....do it! If you want to ride a SB and just cruise, do it. There is no right or wrong. Drawing diffrent lines and taking diffrent approaches is all part of the fun
All great advice Bruh’ and it’s how I’ve gotten decent and confident - I can ride every bort I own now, and each is a different feel, different speed, different response so they all require me to learn different things to have fun on them. And I’ll repeat again: I LOVE THIS SHIT so everyday I get wet and surf I learn something new. And I truly appreciate every different opinion and critique or criticism because if you don’t take them personally and sift through what’s said, you can learn something new. And I try new stuff every time I surf and it’s the main reason I think I’m pushing to the next level with shorter boart and surfing style. I want to broaden my range. Thanks for the insights and honesty
Only been eleven days since ordering... and I’m flipping jonesing!!!!!! Would help if I was surfing at least, but it’s flat as plywood for the next 7-10 days. Again.
Buy a round trip to LAX tonight. You’ll have waves waiting for you in honeytown and you can shoot the pier all weekend, be back in time for work on Monday. You could do the whole weekend for under $800
See? I love this place! Always a different perspective, different vibe, different approach. I gotta say Bro’ if i Wasn’t in the middle of my busiest season - I would actually do that. My brother lives right near La Jolla, I could call my shaper and have him heads up a few of his OG and have a mini trip of a lifetime. And it would have been because of motivation like this
My Brother works a shit ton and isn’t a surfer so if I do it, I’m gonna time it right. He lives about 10-15 min. away and like I’ve said, Roger is big OG from there - his brand is La Jolla Reef Designs - and he’s already told me when I’m ready, plan a trip and he’d set me up with some of his crew there as guides and matrons. I just wanna be good enough not to embarass him lol. I figure I’m there by springtime
Scoobs, I will most definitely do that and maybe Barry will show up and surprise us both! Yeah right lol
I’m actually gonna maybe shoot down to First beach tomorrow after work or Sunday dawn patrol... hopefully catch a bit of it. That would makes things a lot better!
dude have you ever surfed Outlet? I'd be surprised if that spot wasn't picking up any South activity. But wind has gotta be north or NW, or all bets are off
Biggie, I’m 220 also, but taller. I currently ride a 6’8” fish. The SOB is 23” x 3 1/4” and it floats me just fine, even in a 4/3 with gloves. Really fat in the front so easy to glide into even small waves. Try something in the seven foot range with the above width and rail dimensions.